@357Mag what is going on there? you have a barreled action that is U-bolted to a couple pieces of aluminum with some composite deck board attached with strapping?
I have heard people on forums complain about the tight bench rest actions getting bound up by dust and grit but never actually talked to anyone or seen it in real life so take that for what it's worth.
Taylorbok -
Howdy !
What is " going on ", is a free-floated action and " barrel clamp " that together..... secure the barrelled action to the aluminum " beam " stock.
The extruded beam was a cut-off from an outdoor deck railing system, where it served as the railing's central structure. I was given the beam for free.
I oriented the aluminum " I " beam for use in an " H " ( end view ).
The upper insides of the upper valley above the web are relieved to provide clearance for the action. The barrel makes contact w/ the upper insides of the fwd part of the beam, in 2 parallel lines..... similar to how a round action ( like my Wichita WBR1375 ) would make contact within a " V "-block. I used all hand tools, an electric drill w/ ball grinder bit and assorted drill bits; and a hand mitre box to perform the necessary materiel work.
I had to make a small relief grind on the outer Rt side of the beam, to allow clearance for the bolt handle. I also put a slot in the web to accept the recoil lug; and another slot provides access of the trigger to the action. The trigger can replaced from the bottom w/o having to dis- assemble the rifle.
The barrelled action is secured to the " beam " using 2 double-iup plumbers clamps, 1/4-20 carriage bolts, bottom torque plates borrowed from some right-sized "U"-bolts; and Nylon insert 1/4-20 lock nuts.....
torqued to 24in lb. I think the hardware ran < $15.00 total. I did have to cut the inward facing surface of the bolt heads, so that the cleared the surfaces of the outer " clamp " plate.
As noted, I fashioned the fore-end and butt stock pieces from 5/4 composite deck board. Since I was unable to located a suitable cut-off length of the materiel, I had to $$$ an 8ft board, which ran $18 + change. I secured these to the aluminum beam using drywall screws.
I placed stock tape on the bottom of the fore-end and butt stock; the latter being a fixed w/ a bad of RTV before tightening down w/ screws.
Can you tell from the pics the materieI used to fashion a trigger guard ?
The " barrel clamp " set-up allows the clamp to be positioned/re-loading as needed; to tune out unwanted vertical shot dispersion. It works well for me. From starting out w/ the aft edge of the clap plate flush w/ the fwd edge of the recoil lug, I only had to move the " clamp ' fwd 1/2 total in a few small increments; to get undesired vertical dispersion to cease.
I do also have small height removable cheek locating piece that fits into the aft upper valley of the beam; to facilitate cleaning from the breech.
The gun shoots a lot better than I do. It is chambered in my
" DEEP 6 " wildcat; and gives me a valid 1,000yd capability for either target or varmint use; in my instance....for use on groundhog.
" DEEP 6 " pic shows Sierra 95T-MK seated.
Hope that helps ?
With regards,
357Mag