Thoughts on using threadlock when mounting a scope

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Guest, Dec 4, 2003.

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  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I've been told to use a little drop of threadlock on all the screws when mounting the bases and rings to a scope, however, I've also been told not to use threadlock, for the screws may not come off.

    What are everyone's thoughts on this subject ... any suggestions/ideas, please share.


    [ 12-04-2003: Message edited by: Maximus ]
  2. chris matthews

    chris matthews Well-Known Member

    May 14, 2001
    I mount a bunch of bases and scopes in a weeks time. Primarily all Badger hardware. I use red LocTite on the screws and use it to "bed" the base to the receiver also. Torqued to Badger's specs(15 in. lbs)
    I do not use any on the ring screws but I torque them to spec also. 65 for the crossbolt and 15 in. lbs for cap screws.

    And they (LocTited screws) come out with no trouble.
  3. LDO

    LDO Well-Known Member

    Sep 23, 2003
    the answers to this post will be primarily be based on opinion,and u know the old saying,but in my opinion its not neccesary,my 2-dave
  4. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

    Jun 12, 2001
    I don't, but my dad does both as Chris does, with red LT.
  5. Headhunter

    Headhunter Member

    Oct 29, 2003
    I use blue Locktight (removeable) on base screws only. I feel there is no reason in the world to put locktight on ring screws. Ring screw pressure will hold a scope in place even on big kickers like 416 Remington Magnums and such.

    Another good thing to do in some cases is to "Bed" the bases to your receiver to ensure 100% contact. It is easy to do. Put release agent on your action and the underside of your bases. Put a dab of accraglass gel or other bedding and install your rings with Locktight. You can clean up any access bedding with laquer thinner and a Q-tip.

    If you are worried about the bases shooting loose, you can have your receiver and bases re drilled and tapped to 8x40 screws. This is a good thing to do on heavy kickers even though I have ""Never"" had 6x48's shoot loose.

  6. jb1000br

    jb1000br Official LRH Sponsor

    Jul 8, 2003
    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR> Put release agent on your action and the underside of your bases. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I think he meant rough up the underside of your base---if release agent was on both you would jest get a chunk of loose glass.

    RA on the action and hit the bottom of the base with sandpaper and degrease it. then tape around the outside edge on the base and bed it.

  7. MU Ag Rho

    MU Ag Rho Well-Known Member

    Nov 5, 2003
    I like to use fingernail polish, it's cheap and the old lady always has some around.
    HeadHunter, I tried to send you and email and a private message but both were blocked. Would like to see where in MO you are located, I have a couple of projects I want someone to build.
  8. Coyote Hunter

    Coyote Hunter Well-Known Member

    May 1, 2002
    I do what Headhunter does also, using the "blue" locktite on bases has worked for me for 20 some yrs. now. I never put anything on rings either.
    Now maybe if one was going to be using a big cal. such as in the .400 class, then I would probably use the "red" stuff for the bases.
  9. Headhunter

    Headhunter Member

    Oct 29, 2003

    Thanks for catching that. Yes, the bottom of the base needs to be roughed up.

  10. Digger49r

    Digger49r Active Member

    Sep 29, 2002
    I bought some of that green locktite specfically made for scope mounting when putting a Leupy on my 300 Ultra. I'll tell it works. Nothing came loose. I regretted it when I changed the scope/base/ring combo however. I managed to snap the head off one of the base screws.Now maybe that wasn't all the locktites fault, I didn't have a proper torque wrench and might have been a little heavy handed. In my defense,however,this is far from the first scope I've mounted and I've never had a problem until I used the locktite. In future I will just torque the screws properly and be done with it.
  11. dwm

    dwm Well-Known Member

    Feb 26, 2003
    Blue locktite on the base screws and I also put a drop of locktite on the center of the base before I sit it on the action. This bonds the base to the action. Do not use release agent. They stick together pretty good when you go to remove the base but that is the goal. Have not had any come loose.

    Do not use locktite on the ring screws.

    [ 12-06-2003: Message edited by: dwm ]
  12. former naval person

    former naval person Active Member

    Aug 3, 2003
    Long time least 15 years ago...J.D.Jones of SSK fame gave me a tip which has saved agony several times. He recommended placing a tiny drop of the Wicking Loctite on the HEADS of the screws, after torquing them down properly. As he said, "life is too short for Loctite on the threads". Keeps them from vibrating loose, and at the same time is removeable without having to rethread the receiver. That wicking stuff is hell for stout...I do recommend keeping it off small clean threads.
  13. 4mesh063

    4mesh063 Well-Known Member

    Dec 8, 2002
    I wouldn't use Loctite on scope bases or rings for love nor money. I've never seen a screw back out when tightened properly. If the screws do back out, the base is not a good fit to the receiver. IF, IF I was gonna do it, I'd go with the last idea of the loctite on the heads of the screws AFTER they are in and tight.

    My scope screws have grease on em...
  14. Thunder Hunter

    Thunder Hunter Active Member

    Nov 12, 2003
    Chris lets look at Loctite: The problem is that the majority of people asking the question, do not read the instructions on a PARTICULAR LOCTITE PRODUCT. As far as this site goes on SCREWS, only BLUE Threadlocker is applicable; with torquing to the size of the thread screw being used. I use this product in the machine shop on several applications eg. bearing fit to shafts etc. But you have to read the application!!!!!