Seating depth limitations

to see .9 go to 2+ ,
id guess something more severe than bullet choice
sounds like shooter error in parallax adjustment or loose optics
or
brake install ?? , still need even gap bullet clearance . bullet doesn't have to contact the new brake to open up groups
or
reloading consistency , i might suggest dry graphite lube with your last 24 as it could be a tension issue, 3 seated at max mag , 3 seated at minimum depth in case and 3 in the middle somewhere

( look at the drawing for your chamber , what angle does your drawing say at the "transistion to land" measurement )
https://saami.org/wp-content/upload...99.4-CFR-Approved-2015-12-14-Posting-Copy.pdf
 
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pre-threaded and you screwed one on or a gunsmith threaded your barrel and installed a brake ??
Barrel was pre-threaded from the factory, I marked the thread protector at TDC and sent it to Ross Schuler. The brake was slightly off center when I received it so I ordered some shims and got it clocked correctly.

I did a little research before ordering the brake and most said that they can change the point of impact. But that shouldn't matter when doing load development. A change in POI is no big deal as long as it's consistent. After my problems yesterday at the range I dug into it a little more and found plenty of guys saying that a brake opened up their groups by a considerable amount. Ross' brakes had really good reviews but maybe my rifle just doesn't like it. I don't see how I could have installed it wrong as it just threads onto the end of the barrel.
 
Barrel was pre-threaded from the factory, I marked the thread protector at TDC and sent it to Ross Schuler. The brake was slightly off center when I received it so I ordered some shims and got it clocked correctly.

I did a little research before ordering the brake and most said that they can change the point of impact. But that shouldn't matter when doing load development. A change in POI is no big deal as long as it's consistent. After my problems yesterday at the range I dug into it a little more and found plenty of guys saying that a brake opened up their groups by a considerable amount. Ross' brakes had really good reviews but maybe my rifle just doesn't like it. I don't see how I could have installed it wrong as it just threads onto the end of the barrel.

you definitely added harmonic change , but also your brake threads are probably more centered than the rifle threads , and the 2 holes do not line up .. barrel axis to brake axis ... ask this question in the gunsmithing forum area they will have the answers and optimal clearance for a 308 bullet

always best to have the same guy do both threading procedures, he can also cut so no washers are needed and timing is perfect
 
to see .9 go to 2+ ,
id guess something more severe than bullet choice
sounds like shooter error in parallax adjustment or loose optics
or
brake install ?? , still need even gap bullet clearance . bullet doesn't have to contact the new brake to open up groups
or
reloading consistency , i might suggest dry graphite lube with your last 24 as it could be a tension issue, 4 seated at max mag , 4 seated to where ogive just ahead
( look at the drawing for your chamber , what angle does your drawing say at the "transistion to land" )
https://saami.org/wp-content/upload...99.4-CFR-Approved-2015-12-14-Posting-Copy.pdf
I don't think it was an error in parallax adjustment...I had the dial set at 100 yards. Wasn't loose optics, I triple checked all mounts. I don't know enough about brakes to know how it could be installed incorrectly.

The bullet was not contacting the brake because there are no marks on the brake. I took all kinds of measurements of the brake with calipers and it appears the hole is centered correctly and the ports are spaced evenly.
 
you definitely added harmonic change , but also your brake threads are probably more centered than the rifle threads , and the 2 holes do not line up .. barrel axis to brake axis ... ask this question in the gunsmithing forum area they will have the answers and optimal clearance for a 308 bullet

always best to have the same guy do both threading procedures, he can also cut so no washers are needed and timing is perfect
10-4. I've taken the brake off for now. If I decide to put it back on later I'll take it to a gunsmith and have them make sure everything lines up correctly.
 
back to the reloading part ... your freebore to lands angle is 1 degree in your chamber , and the vld bullets you are using closely match that angle , so is has to push through and swage that bullet into the barrel all at once ( momentum / jump is your friend with vlds ) .. compared to a spitzter type it will start swaging at the ouside working in until swaged to match the rifling , more leanient pressure happens + more consistent barrel timing
 
back to the reloading part ... your freebore to lands angle is 1 degree in your chamber , and the vld bullets you are using closely match that angle , so is has to push through and swage that bullet into the barrel all at once ( momentum / jump is your friend with vlds ) .. compared to a spitzter type it will start swaging at the ouside working in until swaged to match the rifling , more leanient pressure happens + more consistent barrel timing
Thank you. I'm new to this so I'm still learning. There's so much information to absorb. Where do I find that info about my chamber dimensions? Is it in the link you posted? All I see are case dimensions.
 
parallax , because you were at 100 and your dial said 100 you were probably close , but doesn't always mean its adjusted .. i dont even read what the knob says honestly , i set it solid on the bags or sled and dont touch it while checking. you might be surprised to find that when the cross hairs stop moving, the knob might read anywhere between 80-125 .. just something to verify
 
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