codyarnold
Well-Known Member
I've just recently purchased a Zeus conquest hd5 and just have basic mounts on it. I was wondering what kind of mounts you guys recommend and if it makes that much of a difference between good/great mounts?
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Scope mount recommendations
- Thread starter codyarnold
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dkhunt14
Well-Known Member
I believe in good quality scope mounts because of scope slipping or stress on the tube. On my heavy guns i use Badger steel mounts and on light gun i use Kelby aluminum rings because of weight. I have never had a scope move in the rings in 13 years of 1000 yard BR. I also think Burris Rings are pretty good. Matt
codyarnold
Well-Known Member
Awesome do you use badger bases with those rings, and yes I need strong mounts a shoot a 300 weatherby mag
codyarnold
Well-Known Member
Also scope has a 1inch tube
Kennibear
Well-Known Member
Here's what I use on most rifles with serious recoil:
It is a Tally light weight one piece ring and mount combination. Look close and you will see they are basically rings that attach directly to your receiver. Tally is not the only maker of one piece set ups.
The benefit is a simplicity of mechanics. Fewer connections and parts to wiggle loose. The surface of the connections (rings to receiver, rings to scope) are very generous in area. The top half of the rings have enough clamping pressure to distort the scope tube so the zoom mechanics are jammed. I use Locktite red between the rings/receiver and rings/ bottom of scope saddle. I use Locktite blue on all screw threads and the top clamp of the rings. The ring/mounts are installed on the receiver first and then lapped into final alignment. The scope and rifle then sit in the safe for a week to cure the Locktite before first firing.
Ring lapping is a must. Don't install a scope without doing it. Every scope I own or install for friends are lapped in and Locktited. It guarantees the rings are straight and the clamp surfaces are 100% utilized for maximum friction and holding power. The scope body has almost no eccentric torque placed on it as a result of the rings being cinched down.
This setup is on a Savage in 375 Ruger that has considerable recoil. I used the lapping and Locktite on a Ruger #3 in 45/70 in '76 and just recently had to reset the scope after decades of hunting and bench shooting 400gr Speers @ 2100fps and Sierra 300gr @ 2400fps. You don't know recoil until you fire that steel butt plated 6 1/2lb cannon. Yet the scope stayed put for almost 40 yrs. It held zero until it finally started slipping forward.
The scope does not remove but as most rifles don't have iron sights (not LR rifles for sure) this is no deficit.
It is a Tally light weight one piece ring and mount combination. Look close and you will see they are basically rings that attach directly to your receiver. Tally is not the only maker of one piece set ups.
The benefit is a simplicity of mechanics. Fewer connections and parts to wiggle loose. The surface of the connections (rings to receiver, rings to scope) are very generous in area. The top half of the rings have enough clamping pressure to distort the scope tube so the zoom mechanics are jammed. I use Locktite red between the rings/receiver and rings/ bottom of scope saddle. I use Locktite blue on all screw threads and the top clamp of the rings. The ring/mounts are installed on the receiver first and then lapped into final alignment. The scope and rifle then sit in the safe for a week to cure the Locktite before first firing.
Ring lapping is a must. Don't install a scope without doing it. Every scope I own or install for friends are lapped in and Locktited. It guarantees the rings are straight and the clamp surfaces are 100% utilized for maximum friction and holding power. The scope body has almost no eccentric torque placed on it as a result of the rings being cinched down.
This setup is on a Savage in 375 Ruger that has considerable recoil. I used the lapping and Locktite on a Ruger #3 in 45/70 in '76 and just recently had to reset the scope after decades of hunting and bench shooting 400gr Speers @ 2100fps and Sierra 300gr @ 2400fps. You don't know recoil until you fire that steel butt plated 6 1/2lb cannon. Yet the scope stayed put for almost 40 yrs. It held zero until it finally started slipping forward.
The scope does not remove but as most rifles don't have iron sights (not LR rifles for sure) this is no deficit.
Speedygoss
Well-Known Member
Seekins Precision fan myself. pretty close to the same thing as a Burris or Badger but a much sleeker design IMO. Call me crazy but I'm just not a big fan of the big nut hanging off the one side of the Burris and Badger stuff.
No Fear in Accuracy
Well-Known Member
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Check out DNZ. I have a 1-piece GameReaper mount, and I have to say, for the money, I'm highly impressed. Be sure to torque to spec, and don't overtighten or you will break the aluminum screws. They require 25 inch-pounds, and your scope is guaranteed not to move. I recommend buying a Wheeler FAT Wrench, if you don't already have one. The mounts are extremely lightweight and strong.
http://www.dnzproducts.com/game-reaper-mounts
http://www.dnzproducts.com/game-reaper-mounts
codyarnold
Well-Known Member
What do you guys prefer front and rear bases or one piece bases
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
With a 1 piece setup you know you're pretty dang straight and not bending your scope tube.
I have been installing and messing with Leupold rings and bases as long as I can remember. I've got them pretty figured out.
That said, I still prefer a picatinny base or a 1 piece base & rings setup for straightness.
I have been installing and messing with Leupold rings and bases as long as I can remember. I've got them pretty figured out.
That said, I still prefer a picatinny base or a 1 piece base & rings setup for straightness.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
John, you're right, those Seekins rings are nice. TPS TSR rings, Nightforce, and Badger rings are all nice, too.
