Scope leveling - which method?

[SouthTXBowhunter]

I've been using the 2 level (Wheeler kit) system for a long time but I'm wondering whether I would be better off using a plumb bob out at 100yds, instead of trusting the level on top of the elevation turret?

The reason I'm asking is that I just moved a Nightforce NXS from a R700 Sendaro with a single piece steel NF base to a Tikka CTR that I installed a NF Standard Duty aluminum single piece base on. I left the scope in the rings initially and when I put the level on the top of the elevation turret, once it was sitting on the Tikka, it was not level! Now, according to NF (page 9), I should have been able to make this swap without any worries; since the bottom of the scope IS parallel with the top of the rail - I checked it with feeler gauges. I have not checked (yet) whether the reticle is plumb in spite of the top of the turret not showing level with the rail.

I'm trying to be really anal about this scope mount since I'm trying to get more precise with all aspects of my shooting. So, I'm sort of at a loss whether to just go with my normal routine and adjust the scope using the levels OR whether to put up a plumb bob on my 100yd range?

What is going to be the more precise method that will give me the best results at distance?

 

[rcoody]

I've been using the 2 level (Wheeler kit) system for a long time but I'm wondering whether I would be better off using a plumb bob out at 100yds, instead of trusting the level on top of the elevation turret?

The reason I'm asking is that I just moved a Nightforce NXS from a R700 Sendaro with a single piece steel NF base to a Tikka CTR that I installed a NF Standard Duty aluminum single piece base on. I left the scope in the rings initially and when I put the level on the top of the elevation turret, once it was sitting on the Tikka, it was not level! Now, according to NF (page 9), I should have been able to make this swap without any worries; since the bottom of the scope IS parallel with the top of the rail - I checked it with feeler gauges. I have not checked (yet) whether the reticle is plumb in spite of the top of the turret not showing level with the rail.

I'm trying to be really anal about this scope mount since I'm trying to get more precise with all aspects of my shooting. So, I'm sort of at a loss whether to just go with my normal routine and adjust the scope using the levels OR whether to put up a plumb bob on my 100yd range?

What is going to be the more precise method that will give me the best results at distance?

I used this just recently will surprisingly good results
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...reticle-levelers/optic-leveler-prod75317.aspx

 

[SouthTXBowhunter]

I used this just recently will surprisingly good results
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...reticle-levelers/optic-leveler-prod75317.aspx

I did this with feeler gauges, which accomplish the same thing. The problem is that this doesn't match with a bubble level laid across the rail or the top of the elevation turret. In other words, imagine that you used your tool (so the bottom of the scope is parallel with the top of the base) and then laid a bubble level on the top of the rail/base and leveled the rifle. Now, put a level on the top of the elevation turret and.....the scope shows out of level.

 

[SouthTXBowhunter]

I ended up starting all over and using the plumb line and got it done.

 

[rcoody]

I did this with feeler gauges, which accomplish the same thing. The problem is that this doesn't match with a bubble level laid across the rail or the top of the elevation turret. In other words, imagine that you used your tool (so the bottom of the scope is parallel with the top of the base) and then laid a bubble level on the top of the rail/base and leveled the rifle. Now, put a level on the top of the elevation turret and.....the scope shows out of level.

yep

I have the wheeler bubble levels. I have used torpedo levels. tried it all. I doubt the accuracy of any level as short as they are.

another thing about leveling the rifle. Is your natural hold with the rifle level. Do you have a level on your scope you use when shooting. If not then all that level rifle stuff is useless. I don't think most people me included have a natural hold that is level. Only way I do it is with the level on my scope mount and bags free recoiling. My natural hold is canted.

Get your rifle and scope mounted and all leveled out then get you a plumb bob and string and put it out there as far as you can see the string and then mount you rifle and see if the crosshairs are level.

I actually believe that it is best to level the scope with a plumb bob when you have the rifle mounted even if it is on a cant. If the scope is level then it will track correctly even if the rifle is canted.