Sako 75 vs Sako 85 actions

I will second the vote in favor of the 75. Although the 85 claims to be a CRF it really is not ...... nor is the 75 but it wasn't claimed to be. Finding an after market stock is easier for the 75 as the 85 utilizes a metal stock insert that mates up with a smaller recoil lug on the action. The 75 has a traditional recoil lug. McMillan makes a stock actually made to the original dimensions and style of the Sako 75 stock. It served me well for all the Sakos I owned.
Neither the 75 or 85 and the clone Fierce eject very consistently and is the biggest weakness in the entire rifle. Long actions are worse as noted before and forget about putting a large windage non scope on. In fact I have seen a few aftermarket and home made bits of plastic and metal that attach somehow to the scope to deflect the casings. All of them were hideous looking and only a few I read worked. All my Sakos were shooters though. I would never do a dangerous game rifle with one,especially scoped.
I love my Sako Rifles and have experienced none of the above issues. I killed a 42" Cape buffalo with my Sako 85 Greywolf in .375 H&H--40-yard, one shot kill using 300 gr Barnes TSX, surprisingly over 67 grs of 4064:). I have many high-end rifles and the Sako is my "go-to" for an off the shelf rifle. If I'm looking for a new cartridge to add to the safe, I look at the Sako site to see if they chamber for it. Easy Button.
 
I have 85 action Sako Carbonlight in .243. The stock is excellent and the 85 action compares very well against my x-bolts and weatherby Mark V actions; and against Rem 700 clones. For lightweight sporter stocks I don't think any aftermarket stocks could improve on the Sako carbonlight stock. The Peak 44 stock on the Weatherby Mark V is also very good but I prefer the Sako action over the Weatherby Action.

I've read that ejected brass hitting the scope is mostly in long action Sako 85. I've not had any issues whatsoever with my short action 85 and my scope is very low.

Maybe find a short action Sako Carbonlight and rebarrel to Weatherby 6.5 RPM which uses standard boltface? Fitting those cartridges into the magazine might be an issue though. ...Edit... Appears 6.5 RPM is NOT short action.
 
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Hunted Africa (Zimbabwe) for plainsgame and cape buffalo with a Sako 75 in 375 H&H. While driving in the Landcruiser, I would keep the magazine loaded with 4 rounds of softpoint (300 grain Swift A-Frame) bullets, chamber empty. As soon as we got out of the Landcruiser, I would crank in a round from the magazine. If we were going after plainsgame, I was ready to go. If we were going after cape buffalo, I would drop the mag and inset a 2nd mag loaded with 4 solid bullets (300 grain Barnes solids at the time). Was super convenient having the two mags and I loved that they held 4 rounds each of 375H&H. Also easy to top load. Ended up shooting a nice 41" old cape buffalo with the soft point, followed up with 3 solids.
Good points. Is it remotely possible to drop a mag out of the rifle accidentally ? Until I read your comment, I rejected box mags for DG, fearing that they might drop out. But, if you think its not possible to accidentally disengage the mag, I'd reconsider...
 
I was looking at the Sako 90 too. My apprehension is that they're new, and Beretta service has a reputation of being terrible; no answered phones, etc.
 
Beretta is terrible for customer service. But if you get a good rifle, you won't need them. It looks like one version of the Sako 90 rifle is offered with the same carbon fiber stock as in the model, 85 carbon light. I also noticed there are 243 rifle now has an 8 twist barrel. I really wish I had that twist in my Sako 85.
 
Gday tribb I apologise in advance for im about to derail & go away from your questions initially as the thread has gone to things that ultimately won't really concern you re Dangerous Game but I have trouble as DG is something I hold very dear to my heart & going to relay my thoughts & experiences in that field to give others a bit to think on not my way just a different perspective

Moving on
I think it'd be highly unlikely for a mag to drop accidentally, you kind of have to want to remove it and know how to remove it to intentionally remove it.

Ronald on your comment above your 85 that is correct that it is nearly fool proof to stop a lost magazine or dropping out in the field
when we don't know it's happened & cycle your bolt & find omg where did that go & especially one I'd avoid in a DG hunt ( only the magazine 75's for that reason as it's not nice yes I've had that happen & why a mate or ph should always accompany one on a DG hunt imo )
& why the 85 was a design improvement over the 75 with magazines
Yes I've had The 75 fall out on me numerous times & lost a few mags also
But once again why I'm a floor plate fan

Floor plate also has its issues & once again if it's not correctly put together you will find the other bullets to follow on the ground as the recoil from the first shot as the release of the floor plate will let go
A simple spring fixes that on the sakos
( tribb highly doubt it will on a 257 as it's the bigger bore predominantly it occur in )

I congratulate you on your cape buff & they are a special critter to hunt đź‘Ť & if you have the chance again your 85 will serve you well that I've got no doubts & yes even with a scope

Cheers
 
Gday letzhunt
I do like your post overall just got a different point of view on the bit below
I would never do a dangerous game rifle with one,especially scoped.
For what reason ?
If it's the CRF vrs push feed or double rifle vrs bolt please forget the following as to me that's a individual thing & I pride myself on my ability with a sako bolt action when $h-t hits the fan & I've seen that on many occasions with not a failure to report but a day closer I get that & why I hope that I have ironed out the what ifs prior to that situation occurring but Murphy is always a day closer with any system imo it's just getting rid of as many as possible

To me DG rifle needs to function 110% & some sakos are definitely reliable 110% if we tune them to eliviate the issues that do occur ( not only sako here as so many brands need tuning )
I already stated the spring in the floor plate release
Another one is a individual thing & that's the kick pad needs to be lengthened on the vast majority of shooters as overall the sakos have been designed around a cold weather climate eg jumpers coats where the greater number of DG hunts are in hotter climates shirts so it's advisable lop Is lengthened ( a good reference on recoil your thumb smacks your nose if your lop is wrong on sakos or I've just got a big nose lol

The interesting one is a scope that can go both ways as from a reliability position yes it can fail so I'll give that a x but also I've put my scopes through hell (all swaros ) & never failed yet but a day closer right đź‘Ťyep I'm fully aware of that

The next part of that is a red dot mine is a aim point h2 ( had a couple red dots that were crap but this one has held up so far ) same issues as the swaros although a little more durable & a clearer ejection path & loading & the quickest target acquisition system overall

On ejection if you cycle fast & have your ejector spring tuned you will basically eliviate a shell dropping back in the chamber off the scope knob & I also like 2 piece rings as not clutter the ejection a feeding capabilities also
Also note once again a day closer to it occurring

Open sights the bead on some of the sako is a little big for my liking & even the white is kinda lost in the last light of the day but that's no different than any open sights especially as one's eyes grow old

So no one system is 100% fool proof & a scope can have the advantage in the Jess staring down a few critters when you have small window available to thread that pill through as often with open sights you will not see that branch against the contrasting hide of the chosen quarry one is chasing

the most important thing is one being extremely fluent in one's muscle memory of how one operates the firearm they choose to use & with respect I have a different point of view on a sako as a DG rifle

yes I like the sakos I have for DG & refuse to use my mates various doubles as watch me go to water & straighten the first trigger out when it goes pear shape yes I messed up a lot of years ago & never put anyone in that position again but that's my deficiency & I know it others are extremely efficient with a double & that's the key to me is one knowing/admitting they are deficient in a area
when I guide people or hunt with my mate/s my sakos are right beside me

I'll keep my numbers of DG out of this place as that's one I keep to myself & mates these days as overall I'm pretty private on that front anyway & I've caused to much friction on putting numbers up previously

Jm2cw & always look forward to others views & I mean no disrespect in the above

Cheers
 
I feel like I can answer this semi-intelligently for the 75 because I am going through some of this now with my 75 stainless (AV) in 338 win mag. Stock choices are not great. The factory synthetic is 42 Oz. Carries like a club. AG composites makes flat top stocks that can be inletted for the action which would save nearly a pound. McMillan no longer makes AV stocks and I was surprised to find out the old ones only saved a few ounces.

The mag is very long for the caliber. This worked out great because I could seat my bullets out to the lands (well past max) This led to great groups and 2950fps with 225 grain slugs.

The trigger is incredible and the bolt is super slick. Awesome gun but not fun to trudge up and down all day. Would probably be very enjoyable for your purposes.
What powder are you using to get 2950fps with 225 gr bullets?
 
H4350, Nickel Plated Win Brass, Rem 9 1/2 M primers 225 Accubond. Seated about .010 off the lands which puts me over max COAL.

RL16 was about 2900fps.

Zero pressure signs for both.

Drops are verified to 300 on the range and to 800 via a dead elk so I know it's not a misread with the chrono.
 
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