Ruger M77 Tang

[hugetacticles]

If it's old enough to be a flat bolt, they were known for having bad barrels.

Forgive my ignorance but how do I know if it's a flat bolt?

 

[javman]

Have one also in 7mag, make sure you check if mag box isn't making contact with action, torque to specs mentioned by others here and lastly try a box of the Federal premium 160 gr NPTs. It may be your golden ticket.

 

[hugetacticles]

So just out of curiosity I went out to check the screws and the angled one in the front was not tight at all. It felt like it was as loose as the middle screw, 5-10 lbs max. I'm going to tighten it to specs and hope that improves my accuracy.
The barrel and crown were checked over and I did have someone with a lot of experience lap the rings and mount the scope. I'm also going to get some help from a hand loader to see if seating to a different depth works for me.

 

[rafterP]

Interesting thread...I hope you'll post more about your experience with this and maybe even some sub-moa targets! Good luck!!

 

[bdyal1972]

I've got an elk hunt coming up in October, if covid doesn't get in the way. I've got a 1970's model Ruger M77 7mm rem mag tang safety that was passed down to me. I've shot 5 different boxes of ammo through from Barnes to Nosler, to Hornady. The best group I got was from the Barnes TSX 160 grain. It was a little under 2 inch group and it wasn't consistent. I'm having a smith float the barrel but he said he really only uses aluminum blocks for bedding and it would cost me $150 to do it. My question is this, if get the rifle back from the smith after floating and it's not shooting any better am I better off cutting my losses and putting the $150 into a different rifle? I've never bedded a rifle and I was thinking about attempting to glass bed it myself before going a different direction, but with no experience I'm wondering if I'll do more harm than good. I've been reading that tightening the lug and action in the correct sequence can do wonders for accuracy as well. I'll make sure and check it out once I get it back. I don't really need it to shoot 1/4 inch groups but getting down to a consistent 1-1.5 inch rifle would be nice. Anyone with experience with the Ruger M77 tangs have any words of wisdom they might impart on me?

I LOVE THE OLD TANG SAFETY RUGERS!!!!

ESPECIALLY THE RARE .75-.85 HEAVY BARRELS!!

if it were mine I would have the gunsmith tune the trigger, cut off the receiver end 1/2", retread and recut the chamber, redress the muzzle and free float AND pillar bed AND GLASS THE ENTIRE INSIDE OF THE STOCK....

Every time I did this I ended up with a 7mm mag, 300 win mag or 338 win mag that shot .75moa with premium factory ammo!!!

Btw every mid 70s ruger stock I lovingly stripped and sanded LOOKED BEAUTIFUL with the checkering touched up, blackened with a black paint pen AND hours upon hours fine sanding and adding gallons lol of linseed oil applied lovingly with a rag and rubbed in..

Or

Apply grip paint!!!

Lol
This has worked for me many many many

 

[RT2506]

Tighten up that front bolt and I believe you will see a big difference in accuracy. I have one Ruger 77 tang safety rifle. I got it from an estate sale of a strange accuracy nut. He had a number of custom rifles mostly in wildcat calibers that were on actions that conventional thinking would tell you were not the ones to be building super accurate rifles on. Ruger 77, Ruger #1, Remington 788, He did have a couple bench rest rifles in 6PPC on sleeved Rem. 700 and one on a special action like a BAT of something.
The Ruger 77 I got started out as a 26" varmint 220 Swift. Fellow had the barrel re-bored to a 1 n 12" twist 30 cal. cut to 24" and chambered in 30x47 using the 300 Savage case with the shoulder pushed back about 10 thousands inch but left the original over all length. He also had a special throat put into it for best accuracy with CAST bullets. He was setting this rifle up to shoot hunter class bench rest and use CAST BULLETS. Told you he was a "strange" fellow. Rifle is set in the original wood stock free floated and glassed in. It has a Canjar trigger. This fellow documented everything about the rifles and every round fired through them. This rifle is a once in a life time rifle. It seems to shoot ANYTHING you put into it better than it is possible for you to hold. I am talking sub 1/2 MOA with the WORST loads. Some friends that bought the other rifles have found the same results.
I have never taken this rifle out of the stock and I NEVER WILL.
So yes you can make a Ruger 77 shoot. I hope you get yours worked out.

 

[johnish]

I've got an elk hunt coming up in October, if covid doesn't get in the way. I've got a 1970's model Ruger M77 7mm rem mag tang safety that was passed down to me. I've shot 5 different boxes of ammo through from Barnes to Nosler, to Hornady. The best group I got was from the Barnes TSX 160 grain. It was a little under 2 inch group and it wasn't consistent. I'm having a smith float the barrel but he said he really only uses aluminum blocks for bedding and it would cost me $150 to do it. My question is this, if get the rifle back from the smith after floating and it's not shooting any better am I better off cutting my losses and putting the $150 into a different rifle? I've never bedded a rifle and I was thinking about attempting to glass bed it myself before going a different direction, but with no experience I'm wondering if I'll do more harm than good. I've been reading that tightening the lug and action in the correct sequence can do wonders for accuracy as well. I'll make sure and check it out once I get it back. I don't really need it to shoot 1/4 inch groups but getting down to a consistent 1-1.5 inch rifle would be nice. Anyone with experience with the Ruger M77 tangs have any words of wisdom they might impart on me?

I don't have direct experience of a tang m77, but my shooting buddy had one in .308 which I would have bought off him if I had room at the time. Consistent 5 shot 1 inch rifle, so based on the answers above I'd concur its worth trying a few things first. Love those tang safeties..

 

[DSheetz]

I also would like to hear how it comes out . I just got one to shoot 3/4 " groups for a friend It had a few problems . The action screws needed torqued to specs. I had to put the pressure point back in the fore end , try some business cards under the barrel after you get the action torqued correctly to see if yours needs the front pressure point , you just need enough to have the barrel move the same every time you fire it and come to rest in the same place every time . The bolt was rubbing against the stock . The mag box was bound up in the stock and the bottom metal was miss aligned with the stock causing the front action screw to bind in the stock and not torque correctly . You can tell a lot by just looking at the stock and action with them taken apart . Look for dark spots in the stock and shinny spots on the action that will tell you if it is moving around the stock or if the bolt is rubbing on the stock . As has been mentioned before check to make sure that the front action screw isn't bottomed out , use a small screw driver or pick to clean the screw hole out . The one I just did started with 3 " groups I think that some one started with a box of left over parts and tried to build a rifle .

 

[Tiny Tim]

As others have stated, clean and check the bore and check action and scope torques. My wood stocked tanger would shoot great groups but poi shifted with humidity changes. Wasn't "quite" as accurate with factory ammo after floating barrel, but with hand loads would shoot 1.5-2" groups @ 300 yes till the barrel was toast. Lots of great and inexpensive things listed here to get you going.

 

[DSheetz]

Is the bolt handle shank flat or round ?

 

[gps2]

Lot of great advice on all the post. It sounds like the barrel maybe touching the stock, creating pressure. To check to see if the barrel is touching stock, by taking a dollar bill and try to run it between the barrel and the stock. If it does not go to the front lug, take a small round object (ex. broom handle) and sand paper to widen the stock rifle barrel channel. Run the sandpaper all the way down stock and back up, you do want to sand sections of the stock. Take your time, you do not want to over open it but you do want to be able to run a dollar bill freely. You will need to finish the inside of the stock, something like Minwax Antique Oil Finish can be used. Put a coat on the sanded stock barrel channel, wait 20 minutes rub it out with lint free cloth. After 24 hours have passed, take 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper and smooth out. Reapply and follow the steps above for 2 to three more times.

Also as many have pointed out, you need to make sure the barrel clean. Get some Hoppes 9 and let it sit in the barrel overnight, take a brush and clean it out. It might take multiple attempts to get it clean. I have done this for friends many times and the rifle started back shooting good groups.

Finally, check the scope to determine it is not broke and the rings are tight. Hopefully the groups are closing up if so, go get it bedded. I bought a 280 Ruger tang 40 years ago, and did the above (except put it in McMillian Stock). The Ruger tangs are great guns, I will never sale mine. Good Luck

 

[DSheetz]

If your P O I is shifting with the weather the wood in the barrel channel probably needs sealed with tung oil or some other wood finish

 

[Cigar]

I hunt with the same model except a 270win.. It has a pencil THIN barrel.. When my barrel has 3 shots down it the 3rd is off by in inch or 2.. That barrel will heat up and will be wondering all over the paper... Try this; Shoot 2 shots wait 15 minutes then 2 more.. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.. O'l Bill knew what he was doing.. These guns are for hunters.. One shot one Flop...

 

[hugetacticles]

Is the bolt handle shank flat or round ?

Flat on top and starts getting round halfway down the shank.