Riddle me this... New vs. Fired Brass

annealing is easy
I use a set of spark plug plyers to hold the brass at the base, I then heat the neck and shoulder with a butaine, crème brule torch (your wife will know where to find one around $15.00) lay them on a cement floor in the garage then fl size after they cool. I do this every 5th load.
My 7mm rm brass is federal and on the 12th loading going stong

Gordo
To each his own, but you might want to be careful about heating the base of the case while annealing the neck. The heat can soften the base through conduction, which can make it weak.

The way I anneal is to set several cases in a low wall pan of some sort and fill the pan with water until the cases are submerged about half way up. I then heat the neck and shoulder with a torch until the brass starts to change color. Then I knock each one, as it's heated, over into the water to cool. This softens the neck/shoulder area without softening the base.

But, hey, whatever works.
 
I am not a metallurgist by any means, but I have read several articles that state quench cooling brass has no effect -positive or negative- on grain structure. Just a question of whether or not you want to dry them off.

Anyone seen different?
 
I am not a metallurgist by any means, but I have read several articles that state quench cooling brass has no effect -positive or negative- on grain structure. Just a question of whether or not you want to dry them off.

Anyone seen different?

I was taught that you knock it over to prevent heat from softening the case head and web area causing it to get soft. That's why you heat the neck/shoulder area. And most of us can't justify buying an annealing system. I don't anneal that often, usually when I see the first sign of neck splitting or the neck not sealing the chamber. I think you can anneal too much. If the brass gets too soft the shoulder can collapse when it's run into the sizing die.
 
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