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Reloading Question

ncfireman83

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2022
Messages
341
Location
NC
So began brass pre for my 300 WSM. I'm using Redding Master Hunter dies. Question is this, I sized the brass and the round won't allow the bolt to close, should I start turning the die in to bump the shoulder back until chambers? Or should I be looking at something else?
 
You need to measure it at the shoulder using a comparator. Then add that measurement to all the other measurements for fired brass vs new brass and figure out where it is getting hung up. If you don't have a comparator order one, in the meantime you can mark up a case with a sharpie, I think blue works best, try to chamber a couple pieces and see where the marking is rubbed off. If it's the shoulder you can bump back one thousandth at a time until it closes with a little tension, then go back one and a half to two thousandths more and go. The hard part is figuring out how much is a thousandth, your dies are 99% an 8 pitch thread so they more .125" per full rotation, to adjust one thousandth you need to move 1/125th of a rotation. Or measure it with the comparator and get within a thousandth or two and know you are within a thousandth or two LOL.
 
Yes bump the shoulder down even if you don't have a comparator. They can be costly but worth it in the long run.
 
If this fired brass was fired in this rifle, Turn your FL die down 1/10 revolution and resize your brass. Repeat until you go from feeling the case in the chamber as you close the bolt to the bolt closing easily with just 1/10 turn on the die. This will set your shoulder back just enough to chamber easily yet not so much to cause case head seperation with multipul firings. Modern large diameter cases, loades to high pressure should be FL sized JUST enough to chamber as described above. This will also make sure the bolt is not preloaded by a tight fitting case in the chamber which in factory rifles, can cause inconsistent bolt shifting on firing which can result in fliers. Not so much of an issue with properly machined and assembled full custom rifles.
 
You need to measure it at the shoulder using a comparator. Then add that measurement to all the other measurements for fired brass vs new brass and figure out where it is getting hung up. If you don't have a comparator order one, in the meantime you can mark up a case with a sharpie, I think blue works best, try to chamber a couple pieces and see where the marking is rubbed off. If it's the shoulder you can bump back one thousandth at a time until it closes with a little tension, then go back one and a half to two thousandths more and go. The hard part is figuring out how much is a thousandth, your dies are 99% an 8 pitch thread so they more .125" per full rotation, to adjust one thousandth you need to move 1/125th of a rotation. Or measure it with the comparator and get within a thousandth or two and know you are within a thousandth or two LOL.
Thanks! I've preset a comparator but sharpie trick will have to do until it arrives
 
If this fired brass was fired in this rifle, Turn your FL die down 1/10 revolution and resize your brass. Repeat until you go from feeling the case in the chamber as you close the bolt to the bolt closing easily with just 1/10 turn on the die. This will set your shoulder back just enough to chamber easily yet not so much to cause case head seperation with multipul firings. Modern large diameter cases, loades to high pressure should be FL sized JUST enough to chamber as described above. This will also make sure the bolt is not preloaded by a tight fitting case in the chamber which in factory rifles, can cause inconsistent bolt shifting on firing which can result in fliers. Not so much of an issue with properly machined and assembled full custom rifles.
Cool! Yeah this is a properly chambered custom and feeds factory loads just fine it's just these sized once fired cases have me scratching my head but sounds like I was thinking on the right track as to the problem. Now just have to adjust and find that happy place with the shoulder sounds like
 
@Fiftydriver it's interesting you say that. I've always been able to re-chamber fired brass. 300 RUM, 284 Win, 243 Win, 22 Creed even buddies 28 Nosler. It might be a tad tight but not enough that I'd ever say the bolt wouldn't close. Some of these loads definitely on the hot side also.
 
Remove your expander ball and turn the die in 1/8 turn at a time checking for bolt closure each time until it closes.
Load up two or three and fire in the rifle. Back die out 1/16 turn and size a case.
If it fits… you have your minimum shoulder bump.
If it doesn't… turn back in 1/16 and that is your minimum bump.
 
Remove your expander ball and turn the die in 1/8 turn at a time checking for bolt closure each time until it closes.
Load up two or three and fire in the rifle. Back die out 1/16 turn and size a case.
If it fits… you have your minimum shoulder bump.
If it doesn't… turn back in 1/16 and that is your minimum bump.
Oops… Fiftydriver beat me and is exactly what I was trying to convey.
 
@Fiftydriver it's interesting you say that. I've always been able to re-chamber fired brass. 300 RUM, 284 Win, 243 Win, 22 Creed even buddies 28 Nosler. It might be a tad tight but not enough that I'd ever say the bolt wouldn't close. Some of these loads definitely on the hot side also.
Over time, if there is any dust or even carbon build up in the chamber, it will eventually scratch the chamber doing this…. Just a tip from seeing what can happen to a chamber over time. I do find it amazing you could rechamber full pressure RUM and 28 nosler brass without sizing. Bet that was not with brass that had more then a couple firings on them. Again, my recommendation is to protect the chamber from scratching which over time will build up and cause issues.
 
Over time, if there is any dust or even carbon build up in the chamber, it will eventually scratch the chamber doing this…. Just a tip from seeing what can happen to a chamber over time. I do find it amazing you could rechamber full pressure RUM and 28 nosler brass without sizing. Bet that was not with brass that had more then a couple firings on them. Again, my recommendation is to protect the chamber from scratching which over time will build up and cause issues.
Ya I can't say how many firings were on brass when I checked likely 2 or 3. It's not something I do on a regular basis but someone told me a similar thing once so I do check, usually just once at some point during load DEV just out of curiosity.
 
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