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Quick load work-up methods?

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,972
All,
Just looking for ideas/tips on the quickest methods to use to work-up a load which provides "decent" accuracy. I have been falling out of the longer hunting/shooting range game (limited places to shoot) so my long range game is now limited to 400 yards. A sub MOA load should do the trick these days. So if your goal was simply to make a sub-MOA load out of a big box store rifle (assuming the rifle can achieve it)...how would you do a quick load work up with out breaking the bank as far as powder and bullets go? Note: Pretend you purchased a decent off the shelf rifle like a Savage 10/110, Tikka, or higher end Remington and you just wanted to get a load which was sub 1MOA. What would your process be? My current plan is this: I have researched the cartidge in question and chosen 2 popular powders for that cartridge. I have 2 types of bullets. I am going to run a quick OCW test on the one bullet I'm hoping to work with the 2 powders. If that does not pan out, then try the other bullet. Thoughts? Again, looking for the quickest way using the least powder and bullets to achieve a 1MOA rifle. I understand that I could have a rifle that shoots mostly everything 1moa or a rifle that just wont shoot and needs to be rebarreled, but excluding those 2 situations, how would you proceed forward.
 
Here is what I do. Others probably have better ideas. But this is the way I've been doing it:

Check http://www.ocwreloading.com/load-info.html to see if there is a known OCW recipe for the cartridge.

And you can check the Nosler load data online to see what they found to be the most accurate load tested. https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/30-06-springfield/

Check other sources to see if there is any data that shows the most accurate load tested. (Bullet manufacturer data and powder manufacturer data).

Starting out knowing that certain recipes have had success with many other rifles should give you confidence that you will be able to find a good accurate load for your rifle.

I like to find the sweet spot for bullet seating depth first. So I usually back off 5% or so from book max and do a seating depth test with 3 shot groups and 4 different OAL's starting at 0.010" from the lands and seating deeper 0.040" until you are at 0.130" from lands. (That is different than what Dan Newberry preaches with his OCW method......I believe he says he fine tunes with seating depth adjustment later).

I always do the seating depth test over the chronograph but you could skip the chronograph if you wanted, but I like to have the velocity data.

Once you find the optimum seating depth then go and shoot 3 shot groups over your chronograph and with different powder charges to find an acceptable group size. As far as where to start with the powder charge weight........you do already have an idea of the velocity and group sizes based on your bullet seating depth test. (Maybe an acceptable load will be found during the seating depth test and you just try a few more loads below and above that charge weight).
 
I think changing bullets has the greatest affect on rifle accuracy, compared to changing powders with the same bullet. So if I had a rifle shooting horribly with one bullet, I would try a different bullet, rather than a different powder with the same under-performing bullet.
 
I think changing bullets has the greatest affect on rifle accuracy, compared to changing powders with the same bullet. So if I had a rifle shooting horribly with one bullet, I would try a different bullet, rather than a different powder with the same under-performing bullet.
thanks good to know!
 
I've only been reloading for 3 years so take that to heart, but I generally start by doing a thorough search online for various recipes using powder x and bullet y. I can generally find at least 8-10 good online loads and then go to the published load data and bring it all together. I do realize that each rifle is unique in what it likes but I can at least get a better idea of what is working for others. I admit that I'm impatient and guilty of not starting out at the minimum powder charge but generally choose something closer to the mid-range and up, based on the research. I may get grief for that but I'm curious just how many re-loaders actually start at the lowest charge every time developing a new load. You know you're going to want, say minimum 2900 fps so why start with a load that's shown to give you 2400 or less?

I found the post above about getting seating depth done first interesting. I generally load .10 off the lands on initial development and see where that puts me with the various loads and speeds. If the groups are good I'll stay with that charge and play with the depth from there, then vary the powder weights and keep testing. I've found that it seems to be an ongoing development process when you always seem to have new powders and bullets to try out....then on each rifle.

Recently, trying to get in time for deer season, I had a bit of trouble getting the highly touted H4350 to perform to standards in my new 260 using the Accubond 130's. Last trip out I threw in some H4831sc loads and watched the 130's shine with tight groups at 200 yards. I know there a good load out there with the H4350 but until then I I've been out taking down one deer after the other with the H4831sc out to 250 yards.
 
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I pretty much do what Scott Scaterlee does. Pick a know bullet primer powder combo. Start middle of book recommended. Load in .3 grain increments. Shoot over a chrono. Find the velocity node. Pick the middle of that. Do seating depth test of 5-10-15-20 off then if nothing comes up I'll jump to 40-50-60
 
All,
Just looking for ideas/tips on the quickest methods to use to work-up a load which provides "decent" accuracy. I have been falling out of the longer hunting/shooting range game (limited places to shoot) so my long range game is now limited to 400 yards. A sub MOA load should do the trick these days. So if your goal was simply to make a sub-MOA load out of a big box store rifle (assuming the rifle can achieve it)...how would you do a quick load work up with out breaking the bank as far as powder and bullets go? Note: Pretend you purchased a decent off the shelf rifle like a Savage 10/110, Tikka, or higher end Remington and you just wanted to get a load which was sub 1MOA. What would your process be? My current plan is this: I have researched the cartidge in question and chosen 2 popular powders for that cartridge. I have 2 types of bullets. I am going to run a quick OCW test on the one bullet I'm hoping to work with the 2 powders. If that does not pan out, then try the other bullet. Thoughts? Again, looking for the quickest way using the least powder and bullets to achieve a 1MOA rifle. I understand that I could have a rifle that shoots mostly everything 1moa or a rifle that just wont shoot and needs to be rebarreled, but excluding those 2 situations, how would you proceed forward.

I believe the OBT (Optimum Barrel Time) method will get you where you want to go in the fewest shots.

The following assumes that you have already completed barrel break-in and that you are using once fired brass from your rifle.

First off, given your stated goal, I would consider seating depth testing to be optional. Whether or not you tune seating depth, and how you tune it, can be highly situational. Start by measuring distance to the lands with your chosen bullet, pick a starting place, and go with it.

Measure the actual water capacity of your fired cases and enter that data in QL, along with your barrel length and chosen COAL. Run your hypothetical and choose your powder. Now run your load table for your chosen powder. Choose a STARTING load, cross referencing with published data if at all possible. Load 3 rounds and fire them across a chronograph to obtain an average mv for that powder charge.

The more advanced QL users will then adjust the powder burn rate until the predicted muzzle velocity matches the actual muzzle velocity for the powder charge you tested. I don't adjust powder burn rate. I simply note the difference between predicted and actual powder charge at my recorded muzzle velocity and apply that correction to all subsequent powder charges. That reliably gets me in the ballpark.

Now that you have corrected powder charges in hand, you may wish to perform a short MIN-MAX runup to confirm that your MAX is where QL says it is.

Having established MAX powder charge in your rifle, refer to the barrel time data generated by QL in your load table. Cross reference that data with the predicted OBT nodes in the attached document. Choose a powder charge that puts you in the center of the highest predicted node that falls below your established MAX. Load your three or five shot test group and shoot it. If desired, load a test group a few tenths above and a few tenths below your chosen charge and shoot them, as well.

Your final group(s) should be near or below MOA. If they are not, the potential probably isn't there with your chosen combo.
 

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http://www.65guys.com/10-round-load-development-ladder-test/

Above is a good article where they explain a method to get to a good load in 10 rounds. It's worth a read even if you don't buy totally into the method, it probably will give some ideas.

This method is great and how I do load development now, but you need a chronograph. It saves a ton of time.

Also, look in the Article section for Jerry Teo's write up on Load Tuning. It's a great way to do load work up, too. I think the article is on page 12
 
Thanks for that, I'll be trying it out soon.
This method is great and how I do load development now, but you need a chronograph. It saves a ton of time.

Also, look in the Article section for Jerry Teo's write up on Load Tuning. It's a great way to do load work up, too. I think the article is on page 12
 
I aim for max velocity combined with accuracy. If I can't find it with a particular combo, I change something up. So, pick your components from a loading manual or whatever source like quickload. Start at a mid level powder charge and load one shot each on half grain increments up to where I think max will be and maybe one or two levels higher usually. I do this with bullets .005" off the lands such is as close as I ever seat. With this, I can establish max load by shooting over a chrono with 5-10 shots. If I see pressure signs and I'm not seeing the velocity I'm expecting or looking for, it's time to switch powders now. If it looks good, I load up 5 each of the top 3-5 charge weights and test for accuracy. If I don't see a load that shows promise at those top velocity loads, that's not gonna work for me and I move on. If something shows promise, I will play with seating depth at this point. Sometimes it takes a couple powders to get it nailed down, but this has worked for me.
 
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