I went to the range today in hopes of finding a suitable replacement primer for the fed 210match that I developed my load with, the things i know for sure is that the 3 pieces of brass were all minimum length trimmed, neck tension was the same, coal was the same, and the load with my fed 210m's are bug hole at 100yds , and 1.5 inches high. So I tried 4 different primers and only one showed any promise, and it left me scratching my head, shots 1 and 3 were in the same hole 1.5 in high where I want and shot 2 was 1.5 low in the dime I was shooting at, so what do you guy's think, was the low 2nd shot a less powerfull primer ?
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primer replacement
- Thread starter red dawg
- Start date
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Too many variables involved for a 3 shot group to show you much. Shoot you some 10 shot groups on a fouled barrel SLOWLY allowing cooling between shots and it will show you the difference between the primers if there is any. Bumping the powder up or down a few tenths usually will make a different primer come in. When you change anything in a load you have to tinker with it a little.
I would shoot a 10 shot group with the other primer with everything else the same as your Fed 210M primer load to see what it will do first. Change only ONE thing at a time to start with to see what you get.
If you don't get the accuracy you want then do a ladder with the powder dropping .2 grain at a time and going higher than your current charge .2 grains at a time if you have not reached too much pressure. You may not find the same accuracy because primers DO make a BIG difference. Good luck.
If you don't get the accuracy you want then do a ladder with the powder dropping .2 grain at a time and going higher than your current charge .2 grains at a time if you have not reached too much pressure. You may not find the same accuracy because primers DO make a BIG difference. Good luck.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Pretty much. I was always told to test first. But I honestly think it's easier to just start over and do another ladder-test/work-up.
well guy's I went to the range before anyone else had woke up this morning, and tried 3 more primers, in 5 round groups, a B R 2, a Wolf L R primer and a cci 250 mag, my target was at 100yds and shooting at a 22 cleaning patch which is 1in square with all rounds thru new brass, and I believe my 2nd loading coming up will be better than virgin brass, my findings were the wolf primer had a 5 shot group of .843 and B R 2 was 1.124 I think either will work now I never reduced or increased the load it was my sweet load with fed 210m's Oh yea the cci mag 250 was 1.425 which could be the mirage I was getting by it being last of the groups that took 90 min to fire 15 shots and it was low to mid 20's. this gun as well as most comes to life when fired 2,3,or 4 times before re sizing
The Wolf primers had always given me good accuracy but the problem is that if you don't have a bunch you ain't getting no more thanks to the current administration in DC. You can get the CCI BR2s but dang they cost an arm and a leg. Usually about $20 more a thousand than standard CCI 200s.
Reloader222
Well-Known Member
You need to fine tune the load with the primer. Federals are generally a hotter primer than CCI for instance. The fact that it shoots higher is proof that the velocity is higher than your previous load. Federal primers has got some of the lowest Standard Deviations and is preferred by many Championship Winners.
Have had decent luck by tuning charge quantity back to known velocity with primer switches. Do you have accurate velocity on original load with 210's. Drop back 2 grains and compare speeds.
Not always but usually if get back into speed node accuracy returns, now maybe hard to match the consistency of the 210M but that is another topic.
Not always but usually if get back into speed node accuracy returns, now maybe hard to match the consistency of the 210M but that is another topic.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
hear is some information that may help you chose a primer.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRIMER
Primer cross reference chart
Try to match brisance of different primers to the one you were using and it will close, I also try to chronograph all loads when changing primers to look for increases or decreases in velocity and SD,s some times the change in velocities will alter group size and SD's. Normally,If the velocity stays the same but SD.s and group size change for the worse, the primer is not doing as well burning the powder/charge.
Low SD's are a sign that you have a good powder, bullet weight and primer combination.
J E CUSTOM
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRIMER
Primer cross reference chart
Try to match brisance of different primers to the one you were using and it will close, I also try to chronograph all loads when changing primers to look for increases or decreases in velocity and SD,s some times the change in velocities will alter group size and SD's. Normally,If the velocity stays the same but SD.s and group size change for the worse, the primer is not doing as well burning the powder/charge.
Low SD's are a sign that you have a good powder, bullet weight and primer combination.
J E CUSTOM
just country
Well-Known Member
morning, thank u very informativelightbulb
Well guy's, I hit a streak of good luck for a change, I took once fired brass from 2506, turned necks on outside only, and annealed them, and used the wolf large rifle primer, took it back to the range last week, and it will bug hole a 5 shot group, now for the good luck, one of my buddy's I worked with 3 years ago called and asked me to help him find some primers for a new project gun He had just bought, because He couldn't get it to shoot with these federal match primers, so we talked trade and He traded me 450 215mag match, and 150 210 match for equal amount of 450 wolf large rifle and I threw in 300 B R 2's But thanks for the primer site I will look at it in a few minutes
LoneTraveler
Well-Known Member
One of the most important pieces of equipment you can take to the range when load developing or having to change something in a load is a chronograph. If you are not getting even velocity, Oh S&$%. Changing velocity changes rpm on bullet and things can go down hill quickly if the bullet is rotating faster or slower than its sweet spot.
I have worked with guns that would shoot 2" groups at 100 yds. with one primer. A change of just the primer, Same box of bullets, Same pound of powder. The gun shot 5 shots a dime covered completely. My brothers 338 WM would throw a shot 4 to 6 inches once in a while out of the group. At a range one day another shooter had a chroney and allowed brother John to shoot 5 shots through it. The chronograph recorded one round 200 FPS less velocity. It hit about 4 or 5 inches out of the group. Changed primers no more fliers. Good Luck in this Quest.
I have worked with guns that would shoot 2" groups at 100 yds. with one primer. A change of just the primer, Same box of bullets, Same pound of powder. The gun shot 5 shots a dime covered completely. My brothers 338 WM would throw a shot 4 to 6 inches once in a while out of the group. At a range one day another shooter had a chroney and allowed brother John to shoot 5 shots through it. The chronograph recorded one round 200 FPS less velocity. It hit about 4 or 5 inches out of the group. Changed primers no more fliers. Good Luck in this Quest.
Sounds like a bad box/lot of primers. Or a light strike firing ping on a thick cupped primer like a CCI. I have seen it. Have seen it couple times with factory ammo across a chrory too. Once it was fresh Federal Premium 7mm mag.
