Pressed checkering???

[timo308]

Yup tried the bronze brush, regular tooth brushes both soft and hard, a hard plastic double ended gun cleaning brush, the holes on this checkering are too small. Thank you for your suggestions.

Have you thought about using a checkering tool to follow along with the pressed checkering lines? As you sand the surface in the grip area and gradually deepen the cut checking it should all clean up nicely. I've done this before to get rid of the pressed checking look, but I've only tried it with walnut stocks so far.

 

[Many Moons]

I am looking for some input on a project that I just took on for my son. He has an older Mossberg 500 that his mother gave him when he was 15 years old; he is now 54. I am trying to refurbish this gun as it has a lot of sentimental value to him and I'd like to bring it back as close to original as possible. I have the wood just about stripped of the old finish using Citrastrip and a scraper. The problem I am having is trying to figure out how to get the original finish out of the "pressed" checkering?? Right now the pressed checkering is full of Citrastrip and....old finish. I have tried a sharp pointed carving blade, a scriber and 120lbs of compressed air, but...it isn't moving. Any ideas would be helpful. I am not certain if this is the correct forum to be posting in, however I am at a loss with this stock right now!!!! I've read where one can use a checkering tool (like 18 line tool that I have) to re-cut the pressed checkering, however I would prefer to keep the shotgun as close to original as possible. This shotgun means a lot to him and I would like to get it right if possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

***After reading some of the replies I would like to add that I pretty much have all of the finish on this shotgun off. I used the Citristrip and some hand scrapers that I will use to get the finish off, then usually will DA the rest of the remaining finish. This issue is the finish that is left inside of the pressed checkering. I finally got some photos up. One of the photos is of the tools that I have already used without success. I was willing to pick each checkering pocket out with the carving blade and the sharp awl, but they didn't work either. This wood is pallet wood, the shotgun is not a Citori or a Perazzi, but it is much more priceless.

Howdy
You can go to Brownells and buy checkering files to clean out the pressed checkering !!!

 

[billflangjr813]

I am looking for some input on a project that I just took on for my son. He has an older Mossberg 500 that his mother gave him when he was 15 years old; he is now 54. I am trying to refurbish this gun as it has a lot of sentimental value to him and I'd like to bring it back as close to original as possible. I have the wood just about stripped of the old finish using Citrastrip and a scraper. The problem I am having is trying to figure out how to get the original finish out of the "pressed" checkering?? Right now the pressed checkering is full of Citrastrip and....old finish. I have tried a sharp pointed carving blade, a scriber and 120lbs of compressed air, but...it isn't moving. Any ideas would be helpful. I am not certain if this is the correct forum to be posting in, however I am at a loss with this stock right now!!!! I've read where one can use a checkering tool (like 18 line tool that I have) to re-cut the pressed checkering, however I would prefer to keep the shotgun as close to original as possible. This shotgun means a lot to him and I would like to get it right if possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

***After reading some of the replies I would like to add that I pretty much have all of the finish on this shotgun off. I used the Citristrip and some hand scrapers that I will use to get the finish off, then usually will DA the rest of the remaining finish. This issue is the finish that is left inside of the pressed checkering. I finally got some photos up. One of the photos is of the tools that I have already used without success. I was willing to pick each checkering pocket out with the carving blade and the sharp awl, but they didn't work either. This wood is pallet wood, the shotgun is not a Citori or a Perazzi, but it is much more priceless.

Have you tried a bronze wire brush.

 

[3chester]

I am looking for some input on a project that I just took on for my son. He has an older Mossberg 500 that his mother gave him when he was 15 years old; he is now 54. I am trying to refurbish this gun as it has a lot of sentimental value to him and I'd like to bring it back as close to original as possible. I have the wood just about stripped of the old finish using Citrastrip and a scraper. The problem I am having is trying to figure out how to get the original finish out of the "pressed" checkering?? Right now the pressed checkering is full of Citrastrip and....old finish. I have tried a sharp pointed carving blade, a scriber and 120lbs of compressed air, but...it isn't moving. Any ideas would be helpful. I am not certain if this is the correct forum to be posting in, however I am at a loss with this stock right now!!!! I've read where one can use a checkering tool (like 18 line tool that I have) to re-cut the pressed checkering, however I would prefer to keep the shotgun as close to original as possible. This shotgun means a lot to him and I would like to get it right if possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

***After reading some of the replies I would like to add that I pretty much have all of the finish on this shotgun off. I used the Citristrip and some hand scrapers that I will use to get the finish off, then usually will DA the rest of the remaining finish. This issue is the finish that is left inside of the pressed checkering. I finally got some photos up. One of the photos is of the tools that I have already used without success. I was willing to pick each checkering pocket out with the carving blade and the sharp awl, but they didn't work either. This wood is pallet wood, the shotgun is not a Citori or a Perazzi, but it is much more priceless.

Looks like the wood might be a yellow or white Birch and could be tuff to get a stain on there again without a lot of spotty blotches. Boyds might have a nice upgraded stock and forearm for that rig. Hope ya find something that works.

 

[PartsJr.]

What about leaving the old finish in those recesses? I'm assuming you will be applying a new finish over the stock. Once you apply the new finish maybe you wouldn't even notice it.

 

[Country Bumpkin]

You said you were willing to take the time to attack each valley individually, if it were mine, I'd buy one of these and a jeweler's magnifying glass, settle in for a long and arduous process. If I were really patient and crafty, I'd set up a Timelapse camera and capture the whole thing on film, make a cool video to go along with the gift (show your son how much time you spent on this).

pfeil Swiss made - #12 Sweep Bent V-Parting Tool 1 mm Full Size

The cutting edge of this tool is formed with a short lengthwise bend, like spoon gouges, for use in places where the straight shank of the standard tool would be awkward. pfeil carving tools and sets are Swiss made. Swiss made implies reliability and precision.

www.woodcraft.com

 

[HRM Johnny]

I applaud you for taking on this task. I hope that it will all come out perfectly.

 

[Radman]

I applaud you for taking on this task. I hope that it will all come out perfectly.

Ditto.

 

[Alibiiv]

Have you thought about using a checkering tool to follow along with the pressed checkering lines? As you sand the surface in the grip area and gradually deepen the cut checking it should all clean up nicely. I've done this before to get rid of the pressed checking look, but I've only tried it with walnut stocks so far.

I read about chasing the pressed checkering and recutting the wood to a diamond/cut checkering, however I am trying to keep the shotgun as original as possible. I can do cut checkering and I do have all of the tools to do this, just not what I am attempting to do. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[Alibiiv]

Can't help with your labors of love but I do wish you luck. Dumb question: Could you possibly scorch the checkered area to darken it & perhaps remove the stripper as well?

I did try the electric heat gun, heated the wood up until is started to smoke and stopped. I did not want to take a chance of damaging the wood where I lost the checkering entirely. Then I would be asking for suggestions on how to do pressed checkering.

 

[Alibiiv]

Have you tried a bronze wire brush.

Yes I have tried a bronze brush, soft toothbrush, a hard plastic, double end gun cleaning brush and a trimmed down acid brush. I think that using a soft bristle toothbrush might work, but...that is only part of the equation.

 

[jrock]

If acetone is a solvent for the finish, you can soak the stock in it and it should loosen up. Might still be a challenge to get it out. Compressed air and a new straight bristle brush can help. It really comes down to what the solvent is for the existing finish material.

 

[Dean2]

Yes I have tried a bronze brush, soft toothbrush, a hard plastic, double end gun cleaning brush and a trimmed down acid brush. I think that using a soft bristle toothbrush might work, but...that is only part of the equation.

If Circa 1850 I recommended above won't lift the finish then it isn't coming out any other way.

 

[Alibiiv]

Looks like the wood might be a yellow or white Birch and could be tuff to get a stain on there again without a lot of spotty blotches. Boyds might have a nice upgraded stock and forearm for that rig. Hope ya find something that works.

Actually we found original NOS stocks for this shotgun. My son said we could go that way, however he preferred to keep the old stock even if it didn't come out the way we'd like. I'm going to do my best to make this one look original. I think that you are absolutely correct about the white birch, I know it is going to be tough to get a good stain on it. My plan is, once I get the checkering cleaned out, is to try torching the wood just enough to bring the grain out, and then sand the wood smooth leaving the grain marks. My son is an automotive paint technician who works with automotive paint on a daily basis. I told him that there was going to be an issue with tis wood taking a stain and told him that he "may" have to tint his clear when he puts the final coat on the stocks. He has done this before on some woodwork on my boat. The finish came out looking like it was original wood with a simple teak oil on it.