Please help new loader...brass question

[30-378shtr]

First of all, I want to say thank you in advance for the help. I'm fairly new to reloading and I'm trying to get maximum accuracy out my 30-378wby. I use it mostly in AZ for loooong shots. I guess I really have two questions. And if you have any general loading advice for this hog.
1. I want to re-barell my Accumark with a 30" Pacnor barell. Is a 30" Pacnor 1:9" a good choice?
2. If I use or re-use factory loaded Weatherby brass/ammo, will I still need to uniform the primer pockets? Or does the factory already do this with their loaded ammo?

P.S. I like to use long boattail spitzer type bullets 180gr with high BCs i.e. Lost River Ballistic, Scirocoo, or some Hornady

 

[EddieHarren]

First off, Welcome. If you rebarrel your rifle, you will have to FL resize your brass from your present barrel. If you have a gunsmith do the work for you, ask him to make a "widget" with the chambering reamer. This is a piece of the barrel with just the neck and shoulder area reamed in it. This device can be used in concert with a dial caliper to determine how far back you are relocating the shoulder on your brass when resizing. You should not move the shoulder back more than .003".
Don't count on any brand of brass to be fully prepped from the factory. These procedures you will have to do yourself.

 

[Chawlston]

[ QUOTE ]
First of all, I want to say thank you in advance for the help. I'm fairly new to reloading and I'm trying to get maximum accuracy out my 30-378wby. I use it mostly in AZ for loooong shots. I guess I really have two questions. And if you have any general loading advice for this hog.
1. I want to re-barell my Accumark with a 30" Pacnor barell. Is a 30" Pacnor 1:9" a good choice?
2. If I use or re-use factory loaded Weatherby brass/ammo, will I still need to uniform the primer pockets? Or does the factory already do this with their loaded ammo?

P.S. I like to use long boattail spitzer type bullets 180gr with high BCs i.e. Lost River Ballistic, Scirocoo, or some Hornady

[/ QUOTE ]

Hello,

I was prepping my brass for my new 30/378 barrel yesterday. I have not loaded for this specific caliber, but the standard case preparation had to be done. I was suprised that the case lengths were all withing .003" and that mirrors most of the 338 Lapua cases I have taken the time to measure.

For the long shots that I am planning on using it for, I chose a 1-8" twist barrel for shooting the 290 or 265 grain Wildcat bullets and the 240 grain Sierras if the Wildcats do not work out.

My next choice after the above would be JLK, Berger and the lighter Sierras all in the 210 to 220 grain range.

Concentrating on 180gr bullets with your generous case capacity will not provide you the ballistic advantage of the larger ones. Trajectories are easy to account for, it is the wind that creates the most havoc. Higher BC bullets really shine when it is windy. Most folk here would use your generous case capacity of the 30/378 to load more slower burning powder for shooting the larger bullets.

James

 

[Buffalobob]

I have never fooled with the 30-378 case but have worked with a lot of the smaller Wby's. My expereince with Wby/Norma brass is that the flash hole runs small. You should make a decision to leave them all alone or open them all up.

You can lay all of your brass out and take your flash hole tool and just see if it will pass through a single one of them and then decide. The last two purchases of Wby/Norma brass I got were 100% smaller than the tool. I left them as they were ,being as I had little faith that I would "improve" them.