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Omg !

G

gj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
306
Location
Idaho
1992 Eagle Arms Action Master model .

Re-barrel. What an ordeal !!!

First the hand guard , a free float hand guard tube and barrel nut where one unit and took act of god to get that off !

Now the barrel is froze in the upper receiver ! And i am wondering if it was pressed in by Eagle Arms ?
Hard to tell what those accuracy nuts did!

I sure hope white oak appreciates my new barrel purchase ... LOL :(
 
gj said:
1992 Eagle Arms Action Master model .

Re-barrel. What an ordeal !!!

First the hand guard , a free float hand guard tube and barrel nut where one unit and took act of god to get that off !

Now the barrel is froze in the upper receiver ! And i am wondering if it was pressed in by Eagle Arms ?
Hard to tell what those accuracy nuts did!

I sure hope white oak appreciates my new barrel purchase ... LOL :(
Click to expand...

lots of folks are putting blue Loctite on the barrel extension when they assemble them. In fact I do it to all of mine.

get you a heat gun and heat it up and that should solve your problem. Using a reaction rod to hold the barrel in place will make it much easier to slide the receiver off the barrel extension without putting too much torque on you upper receiver
 
Never put loctite on a barrel extension or barrel threads unless you want those parts pretty much permanently attached to each other. That sounds like some horrible internet "garage gunsmith" advice... A properly torqued barrel with a high quality upper and barrel extension should not need loctiting. Also, any high-quality handguard should lock the barrel nut in place to keep it from rotating.

You should always put C5-A copper anti-seize on them, NOT loctite.

Also, don't ever use Loctite on your gas block screws. With heat cycles it will melt out, and your gas block can rotate if the set-screws back-out. Use Rocksett instead.
 
MudRunner2005 said:
Never put loctite on a barrel extension or barrel threads unless you want those parts pretty much permanently attached to each other. That sounds like some horrible internet "garage gunsmith" advice... A properly torqued barrel with a high quality upper and barrel extension should not need loctiting. Also, any high-quality handguard should lock the barrel nut in place to keep it from rotating.

You should always put C5-A copper anti-seize on them, NOT loctite.

Also, don't ever use Loctite on your gas block screws. With heat cycles it will melt out, and your gas block can rotate if the set-screws back-out. Use Rocksett instead.
Click to expand...


You would be.suprised at the.well respected high quality professional AR builders that use locktite as a bedding compound between the receiver and barrel extension.

For me that is the only place i would use locktite on an AR. I use clamp on gas blocks never pinned or set screw.

Barrel nut gets moly grease
 
rcoody said:
You would be.suprised at the.well respected high quality professional AR builders that use locktite as a bedding compound between the receiver and barrel extension.

For me that is the only place i would use locktite on an AR. I use clamp on gas blocks never pinned or set screw.

Barrel nut gets moly grease
Click to expand...

Sadly, I don't think I would be. I know gunsmiths that use JB Weld to bed a rifle action, and even some forgetting to use a release agent... :rolleyes: But you won't catch me using it. I'll stick with DevCon. :cool:
 
rcoody said:
Maybe you should try it

You might like it

Cut your.group size by another tenth
Click to expand...

1/2 MOA is good enough for an AR for me, and is fine for DMR type of work. At the most I wouldn't really even need them to be better than 1 MOA, but I prefer them to be closer to 1/2-3/4. I don't use them for extreme precision...I have other smoke poles for that. :D
 
Not really warranted in your typical 5.56 AR.

Reliability and reasonable accuracy is all you need

For me only accurate rifles are interesting
 
MudRunner2005 said:
All of mine I've built are precision, and I've never put any loctite on any of mine... Buy top-tier parts and you shouldn't need to bed the extension. :cool:
Click to expand...


I've had buffer tube ring nuts loosen up, muzzle brakes with stainless crush rings, and the free floating hand guards barrel nuts. Oh even the low profile gas .750 and 8.75 diameter blocks. I go to the competition 3 gun shoots and you pour the rounds through

I use permitex high temp red automotive around the stainless steel gas tubes when installing them because you always see blow by after pinning them in with nothing
 
MudRunner2005 said:
Never put loctite on a barrel extension or barrel threads unless you want those parts pretty much permanently attached to each other. That sounds like some horrible internet "garage gunsmith" advice... A properly torqued barrel with a high quality upper and barrel extension should not need loctiting. Also, any high-quality handguard should lock the barrel nut in place to keep it from rotating.

You should always put C5-A copper anti-seize on them, NOT loctite.

Also, don't ever use Loctite on your gas block screws. With heat cycles it will melt out, and your gas block can rotate if the set-screws back-out. Use Rocksett instead.
Click to expand...


+1

I totally agree and have never had a threaded connection that needed anything to keep then in place.

I also believe in anti-seize on anything that has a chance of being dissembled in the future. also some dissimilar materials wild gall if anti-seize is not used.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
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