Now what?

Mooseknuckles

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Jan 6, 2013
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Washington
I recently bought a Remington 700 sps in 7mm tem mag. I got the rifle for a good price. I know the triggers are not the best so I plan on replacing it with a timney. I plan on using it for bear and elk hunting. My question is now what should I do to the rifle to get the most out of it. I will have about 1000 dollars to put into the rifle. I will be reloading for it. Probably using 168 bergers. Any help would be great. Thanks!
 

FearNoWind

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North Central Valley California
Regardless of who make them, I always bed the action and clear the barrel of any possibility of contact between the barrel and the barrel channel of the stock. The I re-torque, set it up and see what needs to be done to fine tune it.
 

Dosh

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Moose, get a Dewey cleaning rod and a Lucas bore guide to protect the bore. I load the 168 Bergers for my in law's Rem 700 and a friends Ruger with great results. Good luck
 

Mooseknuckles

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Thanks for the torque spec info.
I will look into the cleaning rod and bore guide.
What kind experience have you guys had with Remington factory barrels? I would like to rebarrel one of these days but will probably shoot the factory barrel for a while. Also should I have the bell and carlson bedded?
 

WildRose

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Thanks for the torque spec info.
I will look into the cleaning rod and bore guide.
What kind experience have you guys had with Remington factory barrels? I would like to rebarrel one of these days but will probably shoot the factory barrel for a while. Also should I have the bell and carlson bedded?
A lot of the SPS barrels are pretty rough so break in is really important.

There are lots of ways to break one in "right" and different makers have different recommendations.

It's been so long since I bought a factory rem I don't know if they have a suggested procedure but if they do, go with that.

I think all of us who have been through a lot of rifles have decided on our own best way but really there is no best way.

If Rem didn't send you a recommended way, go to any of the high end barrel makers sites and see what they suggest. Pick one and run with it and you should be ok.

Basically you want to clean the snot out of it before you ever shoot it, then clean it after each shot for 5 shots, then every five shots for the next twenty with a quality copper and carbon solvent.

Once I clean one I'll run a little machinegunners lube before the next shot till it's broken in well to reduce friction and help to essentially polish the bore with each shot.

If one looks really rough I've been known to swab it lightly with lapping compound between shots after each cleaning to expedite the process.

Again, lots of right ways to get there and really the only bad way is to just go shoot it and not worry about it. Doing so can cost you years of frustration and aggravation in the future due to excessive time spent cleaning it.
 

JJD

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Feb 23, 2015
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Right side WA state
I have done little to my 700 BDL, I broke the barrel in per instruction from a recently retired Marine armorer attached to their shooting team. He also suggested I break it in and see how it shoots, if it meets my accuracy needs, call it a day. The guy is busy enough that he does not need to sell me stuff I don't need.
Rifle was recalled on a trigger issue, never sent it in, I replaced trigger with Timney.
With stock barrel, It shoots just a hair over 1/2 MOA
 

Mooseknuckles

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Washington
Yeah I not to worried about the trigger it will be getting replaced as soon as it shows up.
Sounds like a proper cleaning and break in is needed. As soon as I get my acope trigger and stock I will be doing just that. Any recommendations on cleaning solvent for the bore? I usually us hops #9.
Thanks.
 

JJD

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Feb 23, 2015
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Right side WA state
Yeah I not to worried about the trigger it will be getting replaced as soon as it shows up.
Sounds like a proper cleaning and break in is needed. As soon as I get my acope trigger and stock I will be doing just that. Any recommendations on cleaning solvent for the bore? I usually us hops #9.
Thanks.

What I have been taught. Some will tell you break in is baloney, I believe otherwise.

Sorry about how broken up the sentences are, copied from an old saved PDF file.


Break in procedure
For break-in, the barrel should be cleaned prior to initial firing and then after every
shot for the first 10-12 rounds or until excessive copper fouling stops. Our procedure is to push a cotton patch that is wet with general purpose solvent through the barrel
(Butches Boreshine, Shooters Choice, Hoppes #9 Benchres! etc). It is best to use a boreguide and clean from the chamber to the muzzle without pulling your patch or brush back the opposite direction if possible. This will remove much of the powder fouling and wet the inside of the barrel with solvent. Next, wet a brass core bronze brush with the same
solvent and stroke the inside of the barrel 5-10 times. This is followed by another wet
patch and then one dry patch. Now soak the barrel using a series of wet patches with a
strong copper removing solvent (CR-10 or Sweets) until all the blue/green residue
(chemical reaction of the solvent with the copper) is removed from the barrel. Follow
each wet patch with a dry patch to remove residue. The copper fouling will be heavy for
the first few rounds and then will taper off quickly" Once the heavy fouling has stopped
or diminished significantly, it is time to start shooting 5 shot groups, cleaning after each
group. Important: Be sure to dry out the chamber after cleaning to remove solvent, a
pistol rod with a 45 cal bore brushworks well using a patch over it. Failure to keep the
chamber clean and dry will raise chamber pressure to extreme levels. Also dirty
chambers are the cause of most extraction issues. Also, pay attention to the bolt locking
lug recesses. They accumulate solvents and crud and should be cleaned regularly. After 20 to 30 rounds of firing and cleaning, your barrel is now broken-in.

Note ; do NOT use moly coated bullets during break in procedure
 

JJD

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Feb 23, 2015
Messages
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Location
Right side WA state
I'll add this as well to prevent any misconception.
Just because you followed the fore mentioned break in procedure does not mean you will get the results I got in my 700 BDL. Even the smith said all the planets must have been in line for you to have gotten the results you did as he rarely sees that kind of accuracy out of an out of the box rifle. However, my rifle is proof that it is possible.
Also using the correct torque on the action to stock screws is important, getting reproducible attachment is understated. The $$ spent on a good inch pound torque wrench makes for a good investment. IMHO the Wheeler unit does not qualify.
Again, I'm a long way from being any kind of expert at this.
 
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Mooseknuckles

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Jan 6, 2013
Messages
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Washington
I agree with you. I am not expecting 1/2 groups out of a factory rifle. I i get them I will be extremely happy. I would hope with a new stock, trigger, skim bedding and proper breaking, I would like to see 1 Moa groups. I have a very good inch pound torque wrench. I'm a diesel mechanic. I have a very nice Matco torque wrench so getting accurate torque isn't a problem.
 

JJD

Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
13
Location
Right side WA state
Yup, you have the quality torque wrench covered.
Do as you have mentioned and stack on some decent glass and I believe you will be on your way to getting the most out of the rifle you have purchased. Unless they are paying diesel Mechanics way better than they did many years ago you, like myself, have a limited budget to work with and need to get the most bang for your $$
Best of luck.
 

Mooseknuckles

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Jan 6, 2013
Messages
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Washington
Went out today and broke in the rifle. Loaded up some rounds as well. Loaded 162 Hornady amax with a coal at 3.400 and 66 grains of h1000. Not a hot load but still good volecity. Riflr grouped surprisingly well. Shooting right at or just under 1 Moa. That's with the factory stock and trigger. My bell and carlson should be here Friday as well as my timney 517 trigger. So far I am pleased with the rifle. Thanks for all your helps guys. Oh yeah forgot my camera today but next outting I will snap some of groups and the rifle. Ended up putting a vortex viper hs 4x16x50. Got it as cabelas for a killer price 371 bucks and also warne 2 piece base with warne steel medium rings.
 

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