I am new to long range shooting and hunting.I have a savage model 16 300 wsm that I am trying to get this done with. Needing help on where to start with scope,bipod and maybe new stock .like I said new please don't blow my mind or my bank account lol
New to long range shooting and hunting
- Thread starter Craig300
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Catahoula
Well-Known Member
You don't need to blow a bank account to shoot long range as a starter. Get a decent scope & shoot ALOT. Practice is what makes a shooter.
Thanks, Kirk
Thanks, Kirk
jpd676
Well-Known Member
I would check out the super sniper line on SWFA.com. The fixed 10x is $300.00 and is a good option for not much money. I am a fan of Harris bipods, would recommend the S model (swivel) with the nothced legs; around $110.00. For a stock I would try an HS Precision, around $350.00. You might try your stock before spending this money though; if you have an accustock it may be good enough.
How does the rifle shoot now? Reload or factory ammo?
It shoots good at 200(that's all I have at my range) I'm shooting factory ammo because all I have done in the past is deer hunt and I was happy if I could get a 3 shot group Ina 8inch pie pan (kill zone of a deer) but I am looking for some reloads now to try out
I shoot pretty much the same setup and can hit a 8" target fairly easy at 600 yards, so this rifle probably can too.
Might be a good idea to get the rifle shooting it's best before you change much, this way you will see the accuracy each new component adds. I would try to get to 2" or better groups at 200 yards before you change much.
Are you shooting off of sandbags? If so, I would get a adjustable Caldwell front rest and a rear bag of some sort. The front rest will help control barrel jump with a light magnum rifle from the bench and help accuracy. Try to stay off of the bipod with a light rifle until you have good results from the bench with a front rest. The bipod can come later.
Don't think you need a new stock yet. As mentioned the Savage 16 should come with the Savage Accustock which has the aluminum bedding block. It's a good stock and may work well, if it fits you. A 300 WSM in a sporter weight rifle can have some kick. If recoil is getting to be an issue, slip a Limbsaver pad over the regular Savage recoil pad and it should be very shootable.
A scope would probably give you the most bang for the buck right now. You don't need a high power scope to shoot long range, but they are nice to get that tack driving accuracy at the range when you are practicing, and with optics you get what you pay for. So spend some bucks here. For 600 yards or so a scope that tops out at 15x with a 44 bell would be good. Once you move up from these numbers prices seem to go up drastically.
The next place I would put my money would be on learning to reload. A BIG part of long range accuracy is very good ammo and lots of practice. It doesn't cost a fortune either. Hornady has some complete kits that are really good.
First off welcome to the forum. This is a great place to hang out and there are lots of guys on here that are very wise! Barrel nut has given some great advise. I started off with a savage 110 in 30-06. No accutrigger, Tupperware stock and sporter barrel. I started reloading and working on my basic shooting skills and was amazed at what a difference it made in what I could accomplish. I feel a descent scope that has a holdover reticle or finger adjustable turrets in the power range and size barrel nut suggested along with a simple reloading kit will help you extend your effective range a great deal. I think you probably have a pretty capable rifle as it is. I wouldn't change it yet until you start reloading and get an optic that can take advantage of its current capabilities. Also if recoil starts to get annoying during long strings of fire. Whitt machine makes bolt on muzzle brake that would probably help for around 100 bucks.
Several good tips here so far, the SWFA SS 10X, keep your rifle stock until you can develop custom hand loads, practice, practice and practice more, use only the equipment on the range that you are going to use on the field, most any bipod will do as long as it is keeps your rifle from moving around, a scope level to keep the cross hairs level. I use a cheap bipod and a small rear bag, you can make your own, a sock with sand will do. Select a heavy bullet for your caliber 190 to 210 grains for the 300 WSM will work my preference is the Berger VLD hunting their tolerance is very tight, use the Nosler reloading data available online they list the powder they found most accurate for a particular bullet weight and use the OCW, Optimal Charge Weight, method to develop your loads the info is available online. I have found that Nosler Custom brass is the best way to go it is expensive but a lot cheaper that buying cheap brass and having to buy all the tools to get it uniform, the Nosler is good to go right out of the box. Fire form your brass before starting load development and don't use it in another rifle. Fire forming "fits" the brass to a specific rifles chamber increasing its accuracy potential, neck size only after fire forming. I've taken several factory stock rifles from 1"+ groups to ¼" groups with just load development. Most recently a Browning X-bolt 300 WSM with Berger 175 gr VLD hunting, Nosler brass, Federal GM215M primers and RL-22 at 68.7 grains, your barrel my need more or less powder for optimal accuracy but this should get you started. Yeah I went a little light with the bullet in this load but it was all I could get on short notice, took my Elk in one shot at 475 yds.
