"New Style" Savage bolt parts/schematics?

entoptics

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
846
Had a Savage bolt fail me the other day with light primer strikes. Guessing it was caused by a sliver of primer cup, as a few rounds earlier, I had an old Winchester WLR primer pierce. Pulled it apart and cleaned/inspected, and I think it's probably fine, but...

...this got me thinking about replacing springs and small wear parts (ejector spring, extractor, striker spring, etc), as I have three identical setups with round counts around 1K. Springs and such are just cheap insurance.

Anyway...When looking at schematics on Numrich/Brownells/google, all I can seem to find is the "old style" bolts and rifles. Mine are all bottom bolt release, younger than ca. 2005 ish.

Anyone know where to source parts for the newer style bolts?

For comparison, here's the schematic I keep seeing when searching for 110/111 Savage parts....

Savage_12FVSS_schem.jpg


Savage_110_schem.jpg

Slight differences on Numrichs for 110 vs 111, but neither matches my setup, and I haven't found one model's schematic that shows the bottom bolt release.

Savage Bolt.jpg


As you can see, it's running a completely different striker/spring configuration. 2 little springs at the back of the striker, trombone machining at the front of the striker, etc.

Wondering if there's anyone who knows how to find the right parts for this model, or even what this version would be called for google foo...

EDIT: The plot thickens. Was wrong about all three being identical. Two started life as 111 Long Range Hunters (magnum bolt face). Those have bolt assemblies that match the top schematic above. The one in the above picture is from a donor action I bought on LRH classifieds. I believe it began life as a 300WM "Bear Hunter" or something similar, but am not positive.
 
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Gun Shack has quite a few Savage factory parts. I had to replace the firing pin in my short action since it was bent and causing pull weights to deviate noticeably.

The members at Savage Shooters might be able to point you in the right direction. There are quite a few very knowledgeable members that openly help and offer advice or suggestions.

Good luck with the rifle, hope you get it figured out.
 
Had a Savage bolt fail me the other day with light primer strikes. Guessing it was caused by a sliver of primer cup, as a few rounds earlier, I had an old Winchester WLR primer pierce. Pulled it apart and cleaned/inspected, and I think it's probably fine, but...

...this got me thinking about replacing springs and small wear parts (ejector spring, extractor, striker spring, etc), as I have three identical setups with round counts around 1K. Springs and such are just cheap insurance.

Anyway...When looking at schematics on Numrich/Brownells/google, all I can seem to find is the "old style" bolts and rifles. Mine are all bottom bolt release, younger than ca. 2005 ish.

Anyone know where to source parts for the newer style bolts?

For comparison, here's the schematic I keep seeing when searching for 110/111 Savage parts....

View attachment 357443

View attachment 357444
Slight differences on Numrichs for 110 vs 111, but neither matches my setup, and I haven't found one model's schematic that shows the bottom bolt release.

View attachment 357445

As you can see, it's running a completely different striker/spring configuration. 2 little springs at the back of the striker, trombone machining at the front of the striker, etc.

Wondering if there's anyone who knows how to find the right parts for this model, or even what this version would be called for google foo...

EDIT: The plot thickens. Was wrong about all three being identical. Two started life as 111 Long Range Hunters (magnum bolt face). Those have bolt assemblies that match the top schematic above. The one in the above picture is from a donor action I bought on LRH classifieds. I believe it began life as a 300WM "Bear Hunter" or something similar, but am not positive.
Probably not applicable to your problem but I've seen carbon build-up keeping a bolt from closing as tightly as it could which caused some light firing pin strikes.
As unlikely as it sounds I don't suppose that the pierced primer could have deposited some carbon somewhere causing this same effect? Just a far-fetched thought.
 
You can probably order directly from savage. I just ordered a firing pin, well had an ffl order a firing pin for me directly from savage since for some reason they have to be shipped to an ffl. I've ordered ejector and extractor springs from Midway.
 
the biggest problem with the new firing pin is light spring and very minimal pin protrusion causing light pin strikes. with savages known for close to max on headspace and some factory or reloads being at minimum you will get light strikes. have not found anybody but savage that has the firing pin parts but bolt head parts are at midway or the gun shack. you can try the hardware store for a stronger spring and then cut to fit and as far as the protrusion problem the back of the bolt head is the pin stop and a smith or you can hone the tail of the bolthead to increase the protrusion to .055-.058 from the factory that is .048-.050.
 
Constant redesign and parts changed over the years was one of the main reasons I got away from Savage. I was deep into Savage a long time.
It got bad enough on parts a time or two I ordered a complete replacement bolt from Midway, they used to sell the whole bolt or all the parts to build one. They also used to have several tech articles published that were informative. Northland, Sharpshooter, and Savage Shooters.com were good sources in the past.
I gave up and moved to Bighorn actions. And I can use my Savage style barrels.
 
Well. I seem to be kinda screwed...

I pulled the bolt apart, cleaned it thoroughly, and the problem persists.

I decided to contact Savage and I got utterly zero help. Since the rifle has a custom barrel, they won't help me, despite the fact that the bolt/receiver/etc is entirely OEM. On top of that, they only sell bolt/trigger parts to a licensed gunsmith.

Nick (Savage Arms, Inc)

Apr 26, 2022, 8:54 AM EDT

Unfortunately, as the firearm has been rebarreled by a third party, we would be unable to service it.

I would suggest consulting a competent third party gunsmith for diagnosis and service.
Savage Technical Services

entoptics

Apr 26, 2022, 12:33 PM EDT

Greetings,
I've checked most major parts suppliers (Midway, Numrich, Brownells, etc), and have not been able to source parts for the "new style" bolts.
Can I purchase parts directly from Savage? Do you at least have a parts fiche with part numbers to aid my search?

Nick (Savage Arms, Inc)

Apr 26, 2022, 12:45 PM EDT

Bolt and trigger components are restricted and may only be ordered by a licensed gunsmith.

Parts orders may be placed through our call center at 1-800-370-0708. Please have your serial number ready, and our operators will be able to ensure they identify the correct part, and place your order.

Savage Technical Services

So, because it's this "new style" with restricted parts sales, I can't rebuild it, or even replace the springs. Not sure where to go from here.

Can I replace the internals with the old style parts? I'm not a fan of this idea, as it will cost 10X what a spring replacement would cost, but would be theoretically cheaper than a new bolt.

Could there be something related to the trigger causing the problem? I remember reading something along those lines somewhere, but don't remember if it was a Savage or some other manufacturer.

Any other thoughts/ideas?
 
SSS will also take your $ and not return a phone call. A year or so later you might get what you ordered
 
I have only one Savage and it is an older Flat Back so I may be way off here as I do not know enough about them, and to be honest, for this reason, will probably not have another.

Could you replace the bolt body, firing pin and spring, retaining the rest of the bolt parts? Are the rest of the parts compatable? Not ideal, but may work.
 
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