New Rifle Build

[7mmTikkaShooter]

Looking for input on a new rifle build. For several years I've been looking into designing a custom chambering utilizing some of the design aspects of many newer chamberings. I'm pretty close with the reamer print I'm going to send in which is more or less an 338 Lapua AI with a few specific angles and measurements. I won't get into the weeds on that as it would be a whole other discussion. Basically I'm hoping to be in the 3000fps range on a stable load with 300 grainers. What components would you guys look for in a relatively light weight hunting rig that's still shootable? What weight? 15 pounds too light or heavy? What's the most efficient brake? Been interested in Terminator brakes. What length and contour barrel? I'm thinking a Proof bull at 26". Stock? No wrong answers here. Just want to hear what others have done and liked or would do. If you've done something similar what would you do different or avoid if you did it again? Appreciate the thoughts.

 

[The Oregonian]

More info is needed to give input to your specific situation. Target or hunting? What distance? Will you be packing in or carrying the rifle a short distance? What does the rifle need to do? What other rifles and cartridges do you own? Etc.

 

[7mmTikkaShooter]

More info is needed to give input to your specific situation. Target or hunting? What distance? Will you be packing in or carrying the rifle a short distance? What does the rifle need to do? What other rifles and cartridges do you own? Etc.

Hunting North American big game. Elk, deer, moose, sheep, bear, etc. Yes packable for long distances, but heavy enough to shoot steel for practice without getting beat up too badly. I'm not likely going to take a hunting shot much beyond 750 yards, but I want the horsepower to take an elk at 1200. It's a balancing act of weight and recoil. Such is the case for most backcountry guns. I'm 6 foot 230 lb of red meat eating American man so some additional weight is not a major concern within reason. For the same reasons though, and being a pretty experienced shooter, the same can be said regarding recoil management. I don't want a 30 lb gun, but I don't necessarily want to be sledgehammered every time I want to go shoot. This is the main vein of this thread question. How light or heavy would you go? What muzzle brake would you recommend? What other components etc.?

 

[7.62 Gunner]

Looking for input on a new rifle build. For several years I've been looking into designing a custom chambering utilizing some of the design aspects of many newer chamberings. I'm pretty close with the reamer print I'm going to send in which is more or less an 338 Lapua AI with a few specific angles and measurements. I won't get into the weeds on that as it would be a whole other discussion. Basically I'm hoping to be in the 3000fps range on a stable load with 300 grainers. What components would you guys look for in a relatively light weight hunting rig that's still shootable? What weight? 15 pounds too light or heavy? What's the most efficient brake? Been interested in Terminator brakes. What length and contour barrel? I'm thinking a Proof bull at 26". Stock? No wrong answers here. Just want to hear what others have done and liked or would do. If you've done something similar what would you do different or avoid if you did it again? Appreciate the thoughts.

For what you're doing I'd recommend a fast 30 cal over the 338, I've owned a few big 338s and personally I dont see the benefit inside 1100 yards over a 215-245 grain 30 cal bullet
But if you're totally into 338s that's great.
I've pretty much set my weight limit for a hunting rifle that gets packed around the mountains at 10lbs all set up, that pretty much takes the joy out of shooting what you're building though..

I'd recommend a Bat Vampire action (25oz lapua sized).
I personally don't care for Proof barrels, look into Benchmark, Krieger, or Bartlein
Alterra Arms makes the most shootable CF stock I've ever seen, there's a 3.95" DBM M5 setup available from Unknown Munitions, should be way better than a cfe9 center feed.

 

[tim_w]

@rpierce has built a few lightweight 300/338 IIRC that were very accurate and not bad to shoot a cording to comments. Here is a post/thread he describes it in detail 300 Norma Improved. Load testing, info, and builds

8lb less scope/rings/bipod & ammo.

Might want to hit him up to do your build.

 

[7mmTikkaShooter]

@rpierce has built a few lightweight 300/338 IIRC that were very accurate and not bad to shoot a cording to comments. Here is a post/thread he describes it in detail 300 Norma Improved. Load testing, info, and builds

8lb less scope/rings/bipod & ammo.

Might want to hit him up to do your build.

Not sure why but the link isn't working for me. Try again?

 

[Mark37082]

A 338 Lapua AI is the definition of a shoulder sledgehammer in a reasonably light mountain rifle. But, so is a 12 gauge 3.5 inch magnum in a duck blind. This sounds like a great project! You won't notice the recoil if there is a nice game animal in your sight picture.

 

[FEENIX]

Looking for input on a new rifle build. For several years I've been looking into designing a custom chambering utilizing some of the design aspects of many newer chamberings. I'm pretty close with the reamer print I'm going to send in which is more or less an 338 Lapua AI with a few specific angles and measurements. I won't get into the weeds on that as it would be a whole other discussion. Basically I'm hoping to be in the 3000fps range on a stable load with 300 grainers. What components would you guys look for in a relatively light weight hunting rig that's still shootable? What weight? 15 pounds too light or heavy? What's the most efficient brake? Been interested in Terminator brakes. What length and contour barrel? I'm thinking a Proof bull at 26". Stock? No wrong answers here. Just want to hear what others have done and liked or would do. If you've done something similar what would you do different or avoid if you did it again? Appreciate the thoughts.

Propelling a 300-grainer at 3000 FPS is no small feat, and a .338 LMI is capable out of a 26"+ barrel. However, it will need a 4.00" COAL and specially throated for the bullet you will use to take advantage of those long/high BC bullets. Due to the COAL requirement, I went with .338 NMI (my reamer design) over .338 LMI.

My action is Anti-X (22 oz); the barrel is a 24" 1:8" CarbonSix and will be suppressed. I do not have a 300-grainer 3000 FPS requirement, but I will safely push the 250/275/300 as fast as possible. Weight will be <12 lbs hunt-ready and suppressed. Good luck with your project.

Ed

 

[tim_w]

Not sure why but the link isn't working for me. Try again?

@7mmTikkaShooter

Try this one

300 Norma Improved. Load testing, info, and builds

So I got some Warner dies in for my 300 norma magnum improved. Ive never seen brass sized that consistently before. Runout on sized brass is under a half thou. Very preliminary testing showed a wide and accurate node at a mild 3145 fps with a 215 berger and 92 gr of n570. I loaded up 91.4-92.6...

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[WildRose]

Looking for input on a new rifle build. For several years I've been looking into designing a custom chambering utilizing some of the design aspects of many newer chamberings. I'm pretty close with the reamer print I'm going to send in which is more or less an 338 Lapua AI with a few specific angles and measurements. I won't get into the weeds on that as it would be a whole other discussion. Basically I'm hoping to be in the 3000fps range on a stable load with 300 grainers. What components would you guys look for in a relatively light weight hunting rig that's still shootable? What weight? 15 pounds too light or heavy? What's the most efficient brake? Been interested in Terminator brakes. What length and contour barrel? I'm thinking a Proof bull at 26". Stock? No wrong answers here. Just want to hear what others have done and liked or would do. If you've done something similar what would you do different or avoid if you did it again? Appreciate the thoughts.

I don't think you're going to get there especially with a 26" barrel.

With a light barrel like you are talking about I think you're also setting yourself up for some very punishing recoil even with the best of the brakes available today trying to push such a heavy bullet to that velocity.

I would probably be looking at at least a 28, preferably 30"bbl if not longer to try and get there and at least a Sendero contour on an all steel barrel to mitigate the recoil and muzzle flip.

The best brakes though that I know of are the JP Rifles brake that looks like it belongs on an artillery piece the second being the 5 Port Muscle Brake.