Nesika Bay actions........


Active Member
Nov 3, 2001
Sydney Australia
What do you think of these actions from a function and finish point of view.

Recently I injured my neck and with that added to years of 375 ponding, the doctor has told me that my days of big bores is finished.

I thinking of perhaps one of the WSMs such as 270 or a 25.

However, being forced into small bores I would like the rifle to be somewhat nicer than average.

I have had in the past plenty of bench style guns on Rem 700s with Jewell triggers and sporting style rifles with Number 5 barrels.

But I would prefer something nicer than the Rem 700. I like the look very much of the Prairie Gun Works but the advantage of the Nesika is that Australia has an agent for Nesika and this agent is also the import agent for Nightforce and HS Precision.

I was thinking along the lines of the Nesika Hunter action as a repeater in 270 WSM and HS Precision stock and a second rifle with a Nesika Round Action single shot and both actions set up so barrels could be swapped between the actions. The second solid bottom action could also pick up the WSSMs when they are released.

So those of you who have seen the Nesika actions, what do think of them for the situation outlined.

Thanks in advance.


[ 12-04-2002: Message edited by: Mike375 ]

Ronin Rifles

Well-Known Member
Apr 11, 2002
I have seen a friends bare action before he sent it of to the riflesmith and it had a recoil lug, and factory scope mount from Nesika, and it looked and felt very nice. I have a M action in 338 Lapua bolt face on order, and should have it in a month or so. Cant wait to see it. It is a single shot, 1.470 diameter, drop bolt, with recoil lug, and 20 min angle scope mount.


I was reading and saw that "Typically you reach a point where the action threads on most of the way but not quite all the way." this occurence can be caused by two things.
First tool/part flex.
Second incorrect thread perpedicularity.
If the tool and or part flexs and we are talking .XXXX decimal places you end up cutting a very slight taper sort of like a pipe thread.
If your threading bit is not exactly perpendicular to the lathe bore center line you will end up cutting to a small degree buttress threads which will require you to keep cutting deeper in order for the threads to engage correctly all the way to a shouler.
I indicate the carbide insert with a tenth indicator in the X axis, its only about .430 thou long so actually a greater resolution dial indicator would be better but then youll start to see manufacturing deviations in quality when cranking the cross slide.
I have ordered a .625X.625 HSS and will wire edm the correct tool cutting angles on it.
This will allow me a greater length to indicate on when setting up to thread.
One other thing when threading make sure to do ample spring passes to get whatever little tool/part flex you may have and this may cure the afformentioned problem.
If you have the equipment thread milling is a much better way second to thread grinding which very few machine shops do.


Well-Known Member
Dec 15, 2001
I think the Coyote tactical looks awesome from PGW, that's the action I would use.


I have never had a problem with factory rifles I only work on remingtons, I use a .010 oversized tap however, and copied that system where they use a pilot in the action bore to keep the tap straight.


You can also place them in a fixture where a certain torque is applied to the circumference. The small amount of material between the thread root and the outside diameter will also have flexing when tapping and certainly remington does not do this. Production methods are crude I'm sure, but they are easy enough fix's for it.


Hey S1
You wouldnt happen to have a spare set of blueprints laying around for an action would you?
I have a wire edm, 5 axis lathe and four axis mill.
I can do the same work Nesika does but do not have prints to work from. I have reversed engineered the Remington 700 LA and have drawn it on Autocad as a solid and will import it into MasterCAM and hopefully with few changes it will be close to factory specs.
I do have the prints for the GunMetal designs Big50, have yet to work on it. I also have the prints for the 1911 frame.


Yes. We have a Mitsubishi FX30 with the AE power supply. The AE power supply switches between AC and DC giving you a less HAZ area.
It has a 30 X 20 table with the optional 17.9 Z axis, automatic wire threader, we can use .008, .010 and .012 thou wire.
We have the optional 32 pound spool capacity too.
This machine was top of the line when ordered about three years ago, the only difference between it and the new Mits machine that took its place is a 12 to 15 second wire thread operation whereas ours takes a bit longer.
It will also cut up to a 27.5 degree angle, with the angle cutting diamond dies we can do 45 degrees.
Ive cut carbide in it, Al, Steel (all kinds), and Ti.
Ti cuts like butter a lot like Al.
It will produce a 10 to 12 micro finish, with the optional .003 thou wire setup which we do not have it will produce surface finishes down to 3 and 4 microfinish.
We have DNC software, MasterCAM, Esprit Wire, FeatureCAM, and I use AutoCAD 2000i.
The MasterCAM is the complete package (wire, mill, lathe, and mill 3d) with solid modeling.

[ 12-09-2002: Message edited by: daveosok ]


We heat treat everything we stick in it before final machining. Have never run into any problems.
Whatever RC hardness we want is what we take it to (we heat treat everything ourselfs).
Wire EDM, especially ours changes the material very little during machining, our wire edm has a resoulution of +/- .00002 and a repeatability of +/-.00006 . We are no longer splitting hairs, more like atoms lol.
It is set up right now to hold +/- .0002, we do not have climate controlled facilities yet and once upgraded to that will have Mits guys come back and set it up to hold millionths. It is not the machines fault, fluctuations in tempreatures cause material deviations greater than +/- .0002 so holding millionths is impossible until we get climate controlled envirornment.

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