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Need help vortex scope zero/dope

madcow41

Active Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
30
Hi All,

I recently bought a winchester model 70 Pre64 with Vortex viper 6.5 - 20x44 BDC reticle.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f26/winchester-model-70-pre-64-a-106293/

I am having trouple figuring out how to mechanicaly zero my scope, If its even required. I have counted the clicks and divided by 2 to get 134 (elevation) then I set the 0 to the centerline.

However I see horizontal lines on the turret that indicate like a micrometer, Do I need to get the zero horizontal line to line up with that and if not what do I need to know about those lines (Are they useful or not etc) and How do I use those lines in the future.

I hope this isnt too much of a new guy question but I am actively persuing this as a skill set to hone and get to the level you guys are at.

Thanks alot
 

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I would suggest you optically center the scope using this method:

Archives: Optically centered scope by J Bruse Aurand

As you know you can the lift and turn the turrets to zero them. The lines you see are for reference only.


I figured they might be but I wanted to make sure, I knew the index line was important but wanted to make sure I wasnt missing out on a capability

Awesome link by the way, took about 5 minutes and worked way better than my count all the clicks and divide by two. I used a signal mirror
 
You understand just because the scope is zeroed it does not mean the rifle and scope is zeroed? Generally centering the cross hair is done when installing a scope on a rifle for the first time to see how well it lines with the rifle bore. Beyond that it does nothing for zeroing the rifle
 
I wouldn't worry with mechanical center. It probably will not be mechanically centered after sight in anyway. Just bore sight it and zero it in, then put the turret back to zero and write down which line is closest. Enjoy the vortex, they are great scopes for the money.

Gary
 
You understand just because the scope is zeroed it does not mean the rifle and scope is zeroed? Generally centering the cross hair is done when installing a scope on a rifle for the first time to see how well it lines with the rifle bore. Beyond that it does nothing for zeroing the rifle


Yes lol I know, I wanted to see how much elevation I had available to me and figure out what those referance lines ment
 
Originally Posted by kcebcj
You understand just because the scope is zeroed it does not mean the rifle and scope is zeroed? Generally centering the cross hair is done when installing a scope on a rifle for the first time to see how well it lines with the rifle bore. Beyond that it does nothing for zeroing the rifle

Yes lol I know, I wanted to see how much elevation I had available to me and figure out what those referance lines ment

Just curious but after centering the cross hair how far off from the true zero was it. I have a pre 64 with a 10 MOA rail and it was really close after allowing the 10 MOA. Windage was off like 2 MOA. The early Win receivers seem to be machined quite accurately.
 
The horizontal lines are indicators for how many turns you dial the scope up for longer range shots. It looks like the scope is 1 turn up from the bottom in the picture. If you rotate up 1 full turn, you will see another horizontal line. 2 turns, 2 lines etc. Once you have taken the long range shot, you can return to the original zero range by dialing back down to the line it is on now. As noted before, they are just for reference and don't normally line up exactly when the rifle is zeroed, but are usefull depending on what you are doing with it. If you only zero it at 200 yards and never shoot at any other ranges, you don't need to look them. If you dial the scope for a 1000 yard shot (for example), you can quickly return it back to the site in range of 100, 200, 250, or whatever you have it zero'd at. I put a peace of thin pin stripe tape around my turret even with the bottom of the turret drum so I don't need to remember which line is my 200 yard zero.
 
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