Need help reloading

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a_savage02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
133
Location
california
I started reloading probably ten years ago. Not knowing anything about reloading or having anyone to teach me Iv just been doing a lot of research on my own. I took a break for a while do to work and recently got back into it about two years ago. And started doing load development for rifles I own. 6mm creedmoor 6.5 creedmoor Iv built a custom 30-06 that I have had by best results with so far. But I feel like I'm chasing my tail with me 6mm creedmoor and 6.5 creedmoor. Iv had had bad as Es of 130 and sd's in the 50's. Finally thought I found a descent lol in my 6mm creedmoor with sd's of 13 and es of 30. But went and shot some groups and the were 2" plus at 100 yards. With the 6mm creedmoor I was doing load development with a muzzle break on and took it off read that could have caused me accuracy because of barrel harmonics so I put it back on and haven't made it out to the range yet to try the loads again. Any help would be nice do to being a new reloaded. My process is a full length resize and bumping the shoulders back 1-2 thousands using and expander mandrel to set neck tension and for starters I seat the bullets .015 to .020 off the lands depending on mag length and everything.
 
It's really impossible to say what is causing your inaccuracy issues with so little to go on but it sounds like you have a good understanding of reloading principals.

Maybe it isn't related to the reloads at all. Good accuracy starts with the 3 "B"s. Barrel, bedding, bullets. Try some factory ammo and see how that rifle shoots. If you get the same accuracy, then it's the rifle that needs attention rather than your handloads.
 
For the 6mm & 6.5mm Creedmoor try some factory match ammo to see what it does. Like Federal Gold Metal or Hornady match. This will give you an idea if there is something goofy with reloading or something in the firearms.

What brand of brass and bullets are you using? Is the brass same brand and lot number?
 
My process is both 6mm and 6.5mm I started with new brass. 6.5 I started with hornady brass half new and half factory ammo I shot and used. All brass has been fired 2x and is on it's third firing. I start with dry tumbling to clean cases. I lube each case with either hornady one shot or I have some wax I have tried also. I full length resize bumping the shoulder back .002 and all my dies I removed the expander ball and use the Sinclair expander mandrel for the appropriate caliber it gives me between .001-.002 neck tension. I then check overall length off brass trim if needed per hornady reloading manual. Clean primer pockets. Then seat primers with frankford arsenal hand primer. I measure powder with the frankford arsenal gen6 powder dispenser. I get it close and then hand trickle to appropriate charge weight cause it over throws charges a lot. And I have checked the scale with others and it's pretty accurate. And then seat bullets anywhere between .015-.02 off the lands. And that's pretty much the same process I use for all calibers. And as far as non lead bullets most of what I'm reloading for is just target shooting so I'm using less bullets I do have one 30-06 I will eventually load develop for that will just be for hunting but non lead bullets are more expensive so I'm trying to fine tune my process first before load develop for that. The 6.5 I have tried 130 Nosler RDF and 140 grain Barnes match burners. And I have tried imr 4350 and just recently switched to Winchester Staball 6.5. The 6mm I use starline SRP new brass Berger 95 gr vld hunter with staball 6.5 also. The 30-06 I was able to get decent results with I have used random military surplus brass that all has the same head stamp. Am currently using Speer gold dot 168 gr match BTHP and Nosler custom comp 175 gr. And VV N-160 has give on me good results with almost compressed loads. At around 2900 FPS SD of 13 and ES of around 30. I also just started annealing my brass with a torch method and the Tempilaq 750 degree paint to check for temperature.
 
Buckleman said:
I see your from California,are you trying to load copper bullets? They can be very tricky. I've found that Barnes are easiest to work with
Click to expand...
I only use less free bullets for one of my 30-06 and my 300wm but haven't started lol developing for the 300wm yet. And haven't done much with the 30-06 with do to my frustration with my load development already. And not wanting to waist the more expensive bullets lol. But I do have Barnes and hornady GMX.
 
ShtrRdy said:
For the 6mm & 6.5mm Creedmoor try some factory match ammo to see what it does. Like Federal Gold Metal or Hornady match. This will give you an idea if there is something goofy with reloading or something in the firearms.

What brand of brass and bullets are you using? Is the brass same brand and lot number?
Click to expand...
Iv shot the 6.5mm with hornady match the white boxes. Was able to get some decent groups under 1" Moa. And the 6mm I haven't used much factory ammo besides sighting it in just cause in California it's hard enough to find ammo and also having to do a background check for ammo also I try not to buy much unless needed.
 
a_savage02 said:
My process is both 6mm and 6.5mm I started with new brass. 6.5 I started with hornady brass half new and half factory ammo I shot and used. All brass has been fired 2x and is on it's third firing. I start with dry tumbling to clean cases. I lube each case with either hornady one shot or I have some wax I have tried also. I full length resize bumping the shoulder back .002 and all my dies I removed the expander ball and use the Sinclair expander mandrel for the appropriate caliber it gives me between .001-.002 neck tension. I then check overall length off brass trim if needed per hornady reloading manual. Clean primer pockets. Then seat primers with frankford arsenal hand primer. I measure powder with the frankford arsenal gen6 powder dispenser. I get it close and then hand trickle to appropriate charge weight cause it over throws charges a lot. And I have checked the scale with others and it's pretty accurate. And then seat bullets anywhere between .015-.02 off the lands. And that's pretty much the same process I use for all calibers. And as far as non lead bullets most of what I'm reloading for is just target shooting so I'm using less bullets I do have one 30-06 I will eventually load develop for that will just be for hunting but non lead bullets are more expensive so I'm trying to fine tune my process first before load develop for that. The 6.5 I have tried 130 Nosler RDF and 140 grain Barnes match burners. And I have tried imr 4350 and just recently switched to Winchester Staball 6.5. The 6mm I use starline SRP new brass Berger 95 gr vld hunter with staball 6.5 also. The 30-06 I was able to get decent results with I have used random military surplus brass that all has the same head stamp. Am currently using Speer gold dot 168 gr match BTHP and Nosler custom comp 175 gr. And VV N-160 has give on me good results with almost compressed loads. At around 2900 FPS SD of 13 and ES of around 30. I also just started annealing my brass with a torch method and the Tempilaq 750 degree paint to check for temperature.
Click to expand...
Ok Bud first thing, do you have another scale to verify powder throws ?
 
Man, I screwed up some 25-06 brass trying to torch anneal. I have to sort bergers. With that scale, I'd do a .02 ladder to find a forgiving accuracy node as it will be off up to 1/10 of a grain. I'd try a different brand of primer. I'd stay away from ball powders to start. Maybe a proven powder like h4350 to start. Pick up a Hornady comparator and check lengths of those bergers with like the 22 caliber for the tip and whatever works for the base of the bullet while measuring. You can go with recommended coal to start. Measure your brass headspace difference from new to 2x fired. I'd try to find some brass you haven't torched to start. Butterbean is probably going to disagree about the torch but that's my recommendation
 

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