Thanks for the heads up. When I emailed them before I started building this gun they said they had no plans of producing it so that is good news
Making 6.8 Western Brass
- Thread starter Leaf Litter
- Start date
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That is good news, I'm going to build a 6.8 western on a Ruger Short Action that currently has a 270wsm barrel on it.
The plan is to give that rifle to one of my grandsons and I'll build another 270wsm on a medium or long action since I'm pretty well invested in the wsm already.
The plan is to give that rifle to one of my grandsons and I'll build another 270wsm on a medium or long action since I'm pretty well invested in the wsm already.
That worked, thanks!
So life being what it is I just got around to finally trying to shoot the gun. I remove the extractor pin and left the bullet's long so they are jammed into the lands. I only got one out of 4 to fire even though you can see where the firing pin hit the primer on the other three. Here is a pic of the one that did fire, the shoulder is crushed inward. Any ideas? This is a struggle so far!
waspocrew
Well-Known Member
Makes me wonder if jamming the lands isn't enough to keep the case from moving. Seems like it didn't seal, leading to the change on the shoulder. Maybe a false shoulder would be a better option.
When I make 6.5 Sherman brass, due to excessive shoulder movement, I need a false shoulder to ensure correct headspace when forming. To create a false shoulder, you size the neck down in increments just enough to allow you to chamber with a "crush fit". I usually use 280 Rem brass, but have used 270 Win as well. In my experience, the 270 neck is too close to the 6.5 to get a great false shoulder, so I prefer starting with 280 Rem.
In a similar fashion, you could take 7 SAUM, expand it to 30 cal, then I would slowly size down the neck until you can chamber with a crush fit. This *might* yield better results.
When I make 6.5 Sherman brass, due to excessive shoulder movement, I need a false shoulder to ensure correct headspace when forming. To create a false shoulder, you size the neck down in increments just enough to allow you to chamber with a "crush fit". I usually use 280 Rem brass, but have used 270 Win as well. In my experience, the 270 neck is too close to the 6.5 to get a great false shoulder, so I prefer starting with 280 Rem.
In a similar fashion, you could take 7 SAUM, expand it to 30 cal, then I would slowly size down the neck until you can chamber with a crush fit. This *might* yield better results.
Sure worth a try at this point. Have $150 in the 7 saum brass that I hate to waste. Thank you!
Leaf Litter
Well-Known Member
I agree with waspocrew, neck them up to 308 first then run through the 6.8W sizing die.
