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SOLD/EXPIRED ISO: Barrel for Savage 111

crspyone

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Merritt, BC, Canada
Hey everyone, so I'll give a little background on what happened. I bought a jag for a 300 win mag I just recently purchased. I know jags can be a but of a pain depending how the patch is stabbed on and the size of the patch. So after several attempts to get it to fit, it juuuust slides in to only get stuck 3/4 of the way down my barrel. After getting it out, my cleaning rod is bent and has burrs and scratches on it, and turns out it was a misspackaged .35cal jag. When it finally let go everything shot out the end of my barrel past the brass jag and hit my crown so I'm almost positive my barrel is done. I'll be taking it in to get scoped either this weekend or early next week.

Basically I'm just trying to figure out my options if Gunslick isn't going to warranty my barrel, which knowing my luck will be the case.

So as mentioned before My savage is a model 111 in 300wm. But I would be open to a barrel in another caliber if someone has a matching bolt face to go along with it.
 
why not just have the barrel re-crowned? maybe i missed something.

Bruce

Quit messin up my sales pitch! :D

I think he thinks he may have mashed up his rifling??? I'd say go stretch it out and see if it holds a group. If not a recrown is cheap and easy, if it is in fact only the crown.
 
Quit messin up my sales pitch! :D

I think he thinks he may have mashed up his rifling??? I'd say go stretch it out and see if it holds a group. If not a recrown is cheap and easy, if it is in fact only the crown.

I think I may have been under the impression a bore is a lot easier to damage than it actually is, not to use brass rods because they're soft and hold the grime and you end up running a sandpaper rod through your bore and stuff like that. I thought I can see a little burr in the rifling but it's hard to tell because the only thing I have to clean it now is a bore snake so could just be a piece of deposit. I just got off the phone with a gunsmith and he told me it should be pretty obvious to the naked eye if it was messed up (finding a gunsmith with a bore scope around here is turning out to be difficult) and then told me about a rifle he just fixed that someone had gotten a live round stuck in and ground down a steel rod to get it out and got that stuck as well and he said the barrel is fine.. so I'll take it in to someone close by and have them clean it out good and see what they think.

I did waste an 80 dollar box of ammo last night to try and determine if it was hosed, high in sight this was dumb because I'm definitely not an experienced marksman yet, only been shooting a couple years and mostly shotguns, it's a new rifle to me, and the largest I've shot, and I was beside myself, so the spreads could very well be my error as much as from damage. With out a doubt I need a lot more time behind this gun but from 100yrds average group was 2.5" one at 3" and one at 1.75". I dunno what you guys think but that seems a bit big to me from 100yrds, shooting prone with the front of the stock resting on something?

Thanks for the input, this all goes a bit past my knowledge. And admin sorry if this turns into a general discussion thread and is in the wrong place..
 
A whole box of ammo is quite a bit of ammo through what I presume is a sporter barrel. How hot did the barrel get? How well did this ammo shoot prior to the incident?

If you are serious about shooting I suggest you look into how to properly clean your gun, often more damage is done during cleaning than shooting. Get a one piece rod, the longer the better b/c you never know you may get a 30" tube someday, and a bore guide. Two crucial pieces of a good cleaning kit.
 
A whole box of ammo is quite a bit of ammo through what I presume is a sporter barrel. How hot did the barrel get? How well did this ammo shoot prior to the incident?

If you are serious about shooting I suggest you look into how to properly clean your gun, often more damage is done during cleaning than shooting. Get a one piece rod, the longer the better b/c you never know you may get a 30" tube someday, and a bore guide. Two crucial pieces of a good cleaning kit.

I didn't shoot it all at once, and I guess was a 3/4 box, I thought I only saved a couple but not all were in the box, took 3 round groups, went down range and checked and came back. I live in the mtns and sun was setting, it gets cool around here already at dusk, it didnt get that hot i could hold my hand on it.

I bought a one piece rod and a muzzle guard, I wanted a slotted tip but the guy at the store sold me on a jag, which I now would prefer if it was the right size. I looked into how to use them properly before I even opened it, I will also be replacing my bent stainless one piece with a rubber coated one. I know I am am bit to blame, I should have looked at the jag closer after it didn't fit the first 10 times I tried it. But lesson learned at this point
 
I didn't shoot it all at once, and I guess was a 3/4 box, I thought I only saved a couple but not all were in the box, took 3 round groups, went down range and checked and came back. I live in the mtns and sun was setting, it gets cool around here already at dusk, it didnt get that hot i could hold my hand on it.

I bought a one piece rod and a muzzle guard, I wanted a slotted tip but the guy at the store sold me on a jag, which I now would prefer if it was the right size. I looked into how to use them properly before I even opened it, I will also be replacing my bent stainless one piece with a rubber coated one. I know I am am bit to blame, I should have looked at the jag closer after it didn't fit the first 10 times I tried it. But lesson learned at this point

Yes, lesson learned. I've been there and figured out the same way you did that is you probably shouldn't force it. Stainless rod? I use fiberglass rods like tipton and dewey ( i think). I've never used a muzzle guard but I always use a bore guide. I also use nylon brushes and jags, no need for a slotted tip w/ those in my box, you can always put a patch on the brush.
 
And I hadn't shot that ammo before, only a few cheapos when I first got it to see how it kicked. Hadn't even sighted it in yet, sent a couple down range and they didn't even hit paper, but I found the holes in the backboard and cranked on my clickers, all of the groups are consistently 1/4-1/2 minute low/right if that is any indication
 
Yes, lesson learned. I've been there and figured out the same way you did that is you probably shouldn't force it. Stainless rod? I use fiberglass rods like tipton and dewey ( i think). I've never used a muzzle guard but I always use a bore guide. I also use nylon brushes and jags, no need for a slotted tip w/ those in my box, you can always put a patch on the brush.
Yea well it was kinda stiff at first and then went in like I would imagine it should, I think the pad unwrapped and made the diameter smaller or something then it just stopped suddenly and wouldn't go forward or backward, I didn't try backwards too hard, wasn't sure about the ridges on the jag going backwards again the rifling. And yes it was a stainless gunslick 1 piece, ball bearings in the handle, 30 or 32" long, seemed nice.

Note to self on the fiberglass and nylon, and a pad on a brush. I'd like to try a jag again, the pad was crazy dirty when I finally got it out, I like what it does, but definitely a little timid about it, I'll look into a bore guide too, you do all your cleaning from the receive end then with that? Push everything through?
 
Yes, lesson learned. I've been there and figured out the same way you did that is you probably shouldn't force it. Stainless rod? I use fiberglass rods like tipton and dewey ( i think). I've never used a muzzle guard but I always use a bore guide. I also use nylon brushes and jags, no need for a slotted tip w/ those in my box, you can always put a patch on the brush.

+1 on what ohiohunter said. i do the same and use Tipton rods!

Bruce
 
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