Is inconsistent soot on the neck of fired cases my problem?

[aushunter1]

Aushunter, There are drops you can get to wipe on the neck that indicate when you hit a certain temp, but all I do is watch closely for the colour of the brass to change from gold colour to a blueish hue and that's plenty, if it starts to glow you're way too hot. You never want want your case heads to get very hot either, if you can't hold the case head then it's definitely time to dump it in the water.
If your case heads get annealed you can get dangerous things happen when fired....

For your reference the drops or liquid your referring to is called Templaq

You miss understood me, I am asking how YOU know what temperature the brass is reaching??
Sight annealing by colour does not work as different brass & cleaned/not cleaned brass will change colour differently.

So chances are your either under annealing which does nothing or over annealing which is dangerous.

I have been annealing for nearly 5 years now, I actually made my own annealer!

My two DIY projects, build # one brass case annealer

Hi guys, been here for a while & actually don't think I have ever started a thread. Anyway I have been active more on the reloading side as it is what I enjoy in he sport, apart from actually pulling the trigger that is 😁 . I did two builds a while ago(around 4 or 5 years ago now) & thought I...

www.longrangehunting.com

I have no experience with annealing but I've read that if you quench the case after warming it up, you are weakening the brass and making it brittle

False

Everyone has their own preference but it does not damage or change the metallurgy of the brass.

If you get it wet then you have to dry it again.

Myself, I quench.
Why?
Because I have found that when using my machine there is a fair bit of heat transference from the case neck towards the case web when the case neck gets to 750*F for 4 to 5 seconds, so my theory is to stop it in its tracks.

Each to their own though!

 

[Blaster01]

For your reference the drops or liquid your referring to is called Templaq

You miss understood me, I am asking how YOU know what temperature the brass is reaching??
Sight annealing by colour does not work as different brass & cleaned/not cleaned brass will change colour differently.

So chances are your either under annealing which does nothing or over annealing which is dangerous.

I have been annealing for nearly 5 years now, I actually made my own annealer!

My two DIY projects, build # one brass case annealer

Hi guys, been here for a while & actually don't think I have ever started a thread. Anyway I have been active more on the reloading side as it is what I enjoy in he sport, apart from actually pulling the trigger that is 😁 . I did two builds a while ago(around 4 or 5 years ago now) & thought I...

www.longrangehunting.com

False

Everyone has their own preference but it does not damage or change the metallurgy of the brass.

If you get it wet then you have to dry it again.

Myself, I quench.
Why?
Because I have found that when using my machine there is a fair bit of heat transference from the case neck towards the case web when the case neck gets to 750*F for 4 to 5 seconds, so my theory is to stop it in its tracks.

Each to their own though!

Annealing is done before or after sizing?

 

[Patriot007]

How do you know the case is reaching the correct temperature??

You want, Tempilaq 399*C, 750*F Liquid. You can fined it in the welding section at the hardware store. Welders and weld inspectors use this to check the temp on the welds, when welding. Well, welders use a Tempilaq markers, YOU SIR
want the Tempilaq liquid. There are videos on YouTube showing you how to apply it while annealing brass.

Basically, you paint it on the out side of the case, and a little inside the case neck. I apply it on the neck and down about half way, down the case, so I can see where the annealing stops. I have annealed a many a piece of brass by finger and torch and I will say this. You will let go of that brass before you get to 750* and you will have uneven anneal marks. I had better luck with a Socket and cordless drill, that help out a lot with the uneven anneal marks. The problem there was, I was over annealing. You really want the brass coming out of the flame just as the case starts to glow. If you keep it in to long, the flame from the torch will change color to a yellow or orange color. When that happens, you are burning other minerals out of the brass and destroying the case. Other words,,, OVER Annealing. If you look at the anneal line it will be about half way down the case body, and that's not good. Today I use an Annealeez to anneal my brass,, I don't know why I still have all my fingers. Watch The video....

 

[aushunter1]

Annealing is done before or after sizing?

Before, so you cases are at the correct malleable state.
Its the sizing that causes the hardening & overall degradation to the brass.

Also if you were to do it after sizing it could not be the same sizing that the die produces!

 

[aushunter1]

You want, Tempilaq 399*C, 750*F Liquid. You can fined it in the welding section at the hardware store. Welders and weld inspectors use this to check the temp on the welds, when welding. Well, welders use a Tempilaq markers, YOU SIR
want the Tempilaq liquid. There are videos on YouTube showing you how to apply it while annealing brass.

Basically, you paint it on the out side of the case, and a little inside the case neck. I apply it on the neck and down about half way, down the case, so I can see where the annealing stops. I have annealed a many a piece of brass by finger and torch and I will say this. You will let go of that brass before you get to 750* and you will have uneven anneal marks. I had better luck with a Socket and cordless drill, that help out a lot with the uneven anneal marks. The problem there was, I was over annealing. You really want the brass coming out of the flame just as the case starts to glow. If you keep it in to long, the flame from the torch will change color to a yellow or orange color. When that happens, you are burning other minerals out of the brass and destroying the case. Other words,,, OVER Annealing. If you look at the anneal line it will be about half way down the case body, and that's not good. Today I use an Annealeez to anneal my brass,, I don't know why I still have all my fingers. Watch The video....

I was asking him how he knew the temp.

I know the temp & use templaq!

See my above post #43

 

[Patriot007]

For your reference the drops or liquid your referring to is called Templaq

You miss understood me, I am asking how YOU know what temperature the brass is reaching??
Sight annealing by colour does not work as different brass & cleaned/not cleaned brass will change colour differently.

So chances are your either under annealing which does nothing or over annealing which is dangerous.

I have been annealing for nearly 5 years now, I actually made my own annealer!

My two DIY projects, build # one brass case annealer

Hi guys, been here for a while & actually don't think I have ever started a thread. Anyway I have been active more on the reloading side as it is what I enjoy in he sport, apart from actually pulling the trigger that is 😁 . I did two builds a while ago(around 4 or 5 years ago now) & thought I...

www.longrangehunting.com

False

Everyone has their own preference but it does not damage or change the metallurgy of the brass.

If you get it wet then you have to dry it again.

Myself, I quench.
Why?
Because I have found that when using my machine there is a fair bit of heat transference from the case neck towards the case web when the case neck gets to 750*F for 4 to 5 seconds, so my theory is to stop it in its tracks.

Each to their own though!

OOPS, My bad. We all must of been keyboarding at the same time. I totally missed your point in this post.
I see you know how to anneal. Great.
My first annealer I built out of a rotisserie oven. All I'm going to say is, it worked.

 

[aushunter1]

I'll try a batch without the pins. I currently use pins, 2 tablespoons of wash and wax, and a very small splash of a generic clr remover.

Brass Cleaning....teach me the process...pro’s and can’s

So, I have a Midway model 1292 that I bought in about 1995, we’ll say! It has served me well. It was recalled and they replaced the motor about 20 years ago. Well, today old reliable stopped mid cycle and smelled like an electrical fire! It seems ok, but I’m worried that it will catch fire. So...

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Cleaning your brass

if you turn off the gas (close the adjustable gas block) on a gas gun then you dont get all that gunk back in the chamber, in your mag, on your bolt, or on your brass-- but then you have a "bolt action" gas gun --- I actually run a subsonic 308 AR this way as it wont cycle the action anyway and...

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DIY Stainless pin tumbler

Hi all, hope your doing ok in isolation? We will be able to start travelling within our state to regional areas from July 1st so I am getting ready to go for a hunt 😁 Anyway this is part #2 to my other DIY annealer project, which is here if you hadn't already seen it-...

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[aushunter1]

OOPS, My bad. We all must of been keyboarding at the same time. I totally missed your point in this post.
I see you know how to anneal. Great.
My first annealer I built out of a rotisserie oven. All I'm going to say is, it worked.

All good, the other fellow did the same, I obviously wrote it the wrong way

Still good info for others thought

 

[Patriot007]

All good, the other fellow did the same, I obviously wrote it the wrong way

Still good info for others thought

You know, one of my favorite Long Rage Shooting channels is in Australia. I learned a lot about building my rigs from this man.
Mark & Sam after work. This man and woman have a gift.

 

[aushunter1]

@Blaster01, like I was saying in my OP its pretty normal to find the sooting affect.

Unless your having over pressure issues I wouldn't be concerned & you sound like you are doing things right with the bump.

As to the inaccuracy of your loads I can only offer you what is my normal process, I have not had many times where I have been unsuccessful but yes I have had to change powders up to get a projectile to work.

What is the projectile your trying to load for??

If the factory ammo shoots well, I would try & copy it!
Eg, use the same case & projectile, just add primer & powder

 

[aushunter1]

You know, one of my favorite Long Rage Shooting channels is in Australia. I learned a lot about building my rigs from this man.
Mark & Sam after work. This man and woman have a gift.

What channel is that one of you don't mind telling me??
Id like to watch it.

He do have some pretty good shooters here!

 

[Patriot007]

What channel is that one of you don't mind telling me??
Id like to watch it.

He do have some pretty good shooters here!

Their pretty well know over here in the states. When I say Extream long range shooting. This man and woman team is one you need to watch.

MarkandSam AfterWork

www.youtube.com

 

[Blaster01]

@Blaster01, like I was saying in my OP its pretty normal to find the sooting affect.

Unless your having over pressure issues I wouldn't be concerned & you sound like you are doing things right with the bump.

As to the inaccuracy of your loads I can only offer you what is my normal process, I have not had many times where I have been unsuccessful but yes I have had to change powders up to get a projectile to work.

What is the projectile your trying to load for??

If the factory ammo shoots well, I would try & copy it!
Eg, use the same case & projectile, just add primer & powder

I'm not worried about the soot being there. I'm worried about how different my soot "deposits", if you will, look from what I can tell is normal. Normal to me, or atleast what factories look like after fired and other pictures I've seen from handloads, is a consistent line all around the neck almost at the base, with the soot being one shade of grey almost, all the way around the neck. Mine look like somebody took a paint brush and dipped it in graphite and splattered it on the case necks. No consistency at all. As far as replicating the factories, I am shooting the same bullet. Instead of hornady cases I am using adg because I have heard 90 percent bad about hornady 300prc cases and 10 percent good.

 

[aushunter1]

Their pretty well know over here in the states. When I say Extream long range shooting. This man and woman team is one you need to watch.

MarkandSam AfterWork

www.youtube.com

Actually I have watched some of their video's before.

Just didn't know them by name.