birddog 68
Well-Known Member
Yep pretty hard to wear out a 308 barrel. Not even in the 12 years since this thread started. lol
Help with my 308
- Thread starter RyanG
- Start date
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All barrels are expendable items and eventually wear out, The more overbore they are, the quicker they wear out. The 308 is not overbore and is going to last a long time. It sounds like your problem is headspace more than anything else and that can be fixed simply by setting your barrel back and having it properly chambered closer to minimum headspace.
Or, just don't size your brass as much and keep shooting it as is.
Or, just don't size your brass as much and keep shooting it as is.
nksmfamjp
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,200
Well, since it is a 308 now, it has A 0.473" std bolt face and a short mag length…2.8", right? Can it be made 3.0" easily?
Given that, I would be thinking 6 Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor, 260 Rem, etc. Then for throat & twist, you need to ask yourself, what is the ideal bullet and what may I try. If you will shoot mono's, consider going faster twist like 8 twist and then build a dummy round to set the throat.
For barrel contour, if it is a walking rifle, a #3 Brux is about right. For off the bench work, a Brux #5 and up work well. I use the makers name only because their contour chart is pretty standard. Bartlein contours are heavier. To me, the balance point is somewhere around #3 or #4 if much walking will happen.
Length is all about maneuverability and balance to me. In timber, I like shorter, in the open I can go longer like 26". Too long and balance is off. Too short performance suffers. My open country rigs are 28" incl break.
I don't flute. I don't see the value. I know about the stiffness and weight reduction, but it doesn't add up to the price for me.
I don't do carbon either. I'd rather step down a contour to save weight.
Given that, I would be thinking 6 Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor, 260 Rem, etc. Then for throat & twist, you need to ask yourself, what is the ideal bullet and what may I try. If you will shoot mono's, consider going faster twist like 8 twist and then build a dummy round to set the throat.
For barrel contour, if it is a walking rifle, a #3 Brux is about right. For off the bench work, a Brux #5 and up work well. I use the makers name only because their contour chart is pretty standard. Bartlein contours are heavier. To me, the balance point is somewhere around #3 or #4 if much walking will happen.
Length is all about maneuverability and balance to me. In timber, I like shorter, in the open I can go longer like 26". Too long and balance is off. Too short performance suffers. My open country rigs are 28" incl break.
I don't flute. I don't see the value. I know about the stiffness and weight reduction, but it doesn't add up to the price for me.
I don't do carbon either. I'd rather step down a contour to save weight.
