Help with 308 load

This is just me but I was having trouble with my 1/10 twist 308Win 26inch Howa with lighter bullets. Then for poops and giggles I loaded up some 212ELDX bullets with 41 grains of accurate 4064 at 2.835 COL. They shoot about .8MOA and fly about the same out to 500yrds depending on me. Its slow but with the big BC it makes up for it. Also that is in RP brass that has more case capacity. I tried this in another brass like federal which runs about 15grains heavier (just brass) and have sticky bolt lift and all the pressure signs. So be aware if you even think about this. Currently reworking the load cause I was trying at 750yrds and danced all around a tide jug. Might have been just me that day but I nailed it on the first shot out of my 7mm-08. Also I get very inconsistent seating depth with the 212ELDX, from box to box and within a box, and to add this is a compressed load. I really don't like compressed loads. So I'm going to switch powders and go to a 210VLD or what really I've been looking at is the 205 Berger. I really like the 208's but they are just to hard to find and I fine the 205 and 210 a lot. Velocities for the 210 is right at 2500fps so this will be a really good 600 to 750yrd gun for mule deer packing a good 30 cal hole in them. I also use my 7mm-08 for this also running 150 to 168 range bullets.
 
One responder mentioned paralax. I've tested a lot of fixed parallax scopes and some have a lot of reticle movement at 100 yards. You can minimize the effect by moving your eye back from the scope and centering the light circle in the ocular lens before each shot. Or, if you have access to an adjustable parallax scope, try that before doing any work on the rifle. Of course, check all scope base and ring screws for proper torque.
 
As mentioned, if you can find some FGMM in 168gr or 175gr (preferred), this will be a tell.

One responder mentioned paralax. I've tested a lot of fixed parallax scopes and some have a lot of reticle movement at 100 yards. You can minimize the effect by moving your eye back from the scope and centering the light circle in the ocular lens before each shot. Or, if you have access to an adjustable parallax scope, try that before doing any work on the rifle. Of course, check all scope base and ring screws for proper torque.
I agree with Shane, if a .308 won't shoot the 175 FGMM then I try the 168's. If it won't shoot either somewhat decent then the rifle is a turd.😂 Joking…kinda

Lionel has a point about using a fixed parallax scope at its true parallax free range, otherwise using scope shadow/ vignetting to ensure parallax free. Parallax can be a bigger issue up close in these situations.
 
I agree with Shane, if a .308 won't shoot the 175 FGMM then I try the 168's. If it won't shoot either somewhat decent then the rifle is a turd.😂 Joking…kinda

Lionel has a point about using a fixed parallax scope at its true parallax free range, otherwise using scope shadow/ vignetting to ensure parallax free. Parallax can be a bigger issue up close in these situations.
I would agree with that. I suspect the rifle and/or scope/scope mounting. I'd disassemble the barrel/action, reinstall and torque to a spec or a hair over, same with the scope. If it doesn't shoot Fedg GMM 168gr, try a new scope. If it still doesn't shoot well- rifle is a turd.

I hunted with a guy that had bought a Mossberg .308 around 2015- it didn't shoot worth a squat. I recommended a Tikka before he bought that Mossy. He eventually wound up with a Tikka .308, same scope and ammo shot under 1".
 
I helped a friend work up a load two years ago with the same rifle in a walnut stock. 150g Hornady btsp with 43.5g of R#15, shot 1/2" groups. Bench techniques shooting a heavy kicker like this rifle is takes some attention. You have to pull the gun back solid against your shoulder and hold the fore arm down with your left hand on the rifle rest(right handed shooter).
 
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