Help tightening up Hammer groups

[LongWalker]

Loading the 151 gr Absolute Hammer in a 30-06 in front of VV-N550, Lapua 3x fired brass and FGMM LRPs. Did .5 grain velocity work up and backed off .8 after I found pressure.

Loaded .3 grains ether side of that and shot three round groups a 100 yards today. I will start by saying the wind was howling at the range and played a factor for sure I'm just not sure how much. Wind was straight in at 15-20 with gusts from 25-30 ranging from 1/4 to 1/2 value. I did try to wait for heavy gusts to pass between shots but winds were inconsistent.

Groups weren't bad, right at an inch and velocity is good at 3217 fps average with a 22" barrel. My initial load for the rifle is a 180 Berger EH same powder brass and primer and is a sub MOA load out to 500 (as far as I have run it to date). I obviously plan to-re shoot in better conditions but wonder if I should adjust seating depth a bit or maybe take a closer look at charge weights. I know from folks here that the Hammers aren't typically as sensitive to seating depth as other bullets so am I going down a rabbit hole by working seating depth without first looking at shooting again in better conditions and/or charge weights.

Thanks in advance for all the sage advice.

 

[Old Rooster]

I would wait for a near windless day and shoot 3 for group.If not great start changing bullet depth.Keep notes and write down results with the notes.I have gotten better groups by loading longer but your rifle may be different so with your rifle load 3 longer and shoot.Keep doing that and write down all shots for a comparison.Thats how I got my 308 shooting hammers real good.Haven't shot the 151 yet but will soon.

 

[Recon$$]

I just went through this. Where are you seating them? Trying a jump .05 is where you can start or seat them to the last groove. Also have you pulled the expander ball out of your sizing die? These all helped my groups immensely.

 

[nealm66]

I was able to tighten groups with a .01 ladder. Basically one hole 3 shot group at 100 and seems to be holding fairly well out to distance. Would definitely not do load work up on an windy day if possible

 

[LongWalker]

Thanks for all the thoughts. I think I'm going to reshoot it on a better day. When I got home I looked at the target pic for a load I finished and wanted to run out to 600 but knew that wouldn't be a good idea. I thought 100 would be ok but that load had a dead on zero at 100 and the center of that group today was an inch and a half right.

I shot it first and the wind got worse.

Times like that I wish the range wasn't an hour away.

 

[PddPdd]

Longwalker,

Did you thoroughly clean all carbon & copper out of your barrel before starting this reloading effort. That is a common mistake when developing Hammer loads. Also, many shoot lighter bullets than cup & core lead to see the higher velocities that Hammers can achieve with faster powders. For example I was shooting 180 to 195 grain bullets in my 28 Nosler and now shooting 140 grain Hammer Hunters at 3400+ fps and 1/2 MOA accuracy. Also I would try a seating depth that puts the bullet shank (just above the boat-tail) right above your shoulder/neck junction of your brass. Then seat it out further if this does not position the end of the case neck in a PDR groove.

This approach has allowed me to obtain roughly 200+ fps velocity gains and 1/2 MOA accuracy on three different rifle calibers, all production rifles.

 

[LongWalker]

Longwalker,

Did you thoroughly clean all carbon & copper out of your barrel before starting this reloading effort. That is a common mistake when developing Hammer loads. Also, many shoot lighter bullets than cup & core lead to see the higher velocities that Hammers can achieve with faster powders. For example I was shooting 180 to 195 grain bullets in my 28 Nosler and now shooting 140 grain Hammer Hunters at 3400+ fps and 1/2 MOA accuracy. Also I would try a seating depth that puts the bullet shank (just above the boat-tail) right above your shoulder/neck junction of your brass. Then seat it out further if this does not position the end of the case neck in a PDR groove.

This approach has allowed me to obtain roughly 200+ fps velocity gains and 1/2 MOA accuracy on three different rifle calibers, all production rifles.

My current COL is 3.246 which I borrowed from the data on the AH spreadsheet here as well as the load data (Thank you Mountain Man!!) If I seat at the neck junction I'd be at 3.180. I'm willing to give that a go as I'm .060 off the lands with the Berger so the rifle likes a bit if jump apparently.

 

[QuietTexan]

I vote for trying the last PDR at the neck, and try sizing without the button and leaving the neck tight when you seat bullets. I used a 2/8 BB FCD crimp.

30-06, 178 AH, H-100V, 3.400", got 3000 FPS and one hole accuracy without changing seating depth.

 

[LongWalker]

I only neck size with a Lee collet die and don't crimp my bolt guns.

I am going to try seating just a tad deeper. When I just mocked it up it looks better which can mean absolutely nothing but seating at the neck junction does make sense.

 

[sierracharlie338]

I just went through this. Where are you seating them? Trying a jump .05 is where you can start or seat them to the last groove. Also have you pulled the expander ball out of your sizing die? These all helped my groups immensely.

Did you neck size with a mandrel instead bro-tato?

 

[Recon$$]

Full length size with expander ball, then another full length without.

 

[PddPdd]

I only neck size with a Lee collet die and don't crimp my bolt guns.

I am going to try seating just a tad deeper. When I just mocked it up it looks better which can mean absolutely nothing but seating at the neck junction does make sense.

I should have explained in my earlier post but the reason I keep the shank above the shoulder/neck junction is to avoid any issues with material thickening from resizing (doughnuts) even though I run a dry lubed mandrel through them all before seating.

The crimp die Quiet Texan is referring to is an inexpensive Lee Factory Crimp Die which for some lowers velocity SD & ES. It is not for cannelure crimping but does seem to provide more consistent neck tension/bullet release.

 

[LongWalker]

I actually just picked one up on Bezos-mart and will try it with my next load set. Hammers are the first monos I've used and the neck tension advice is pretty consistent so I'll give it a go.

I use one for my AR .308 loads but more to help make sure the bullets don't do anything goofy when the hit the feed ramp.

 

[QuietTexan]

I... don't crimp my bolt guns.

I don't usually either. But I went with it and I was ended up surprised by how easy the Hammers were to load. I like the method because it ends up being repeatable if you check case length, because there are multiple index marks to line everything up again. FCDs are cheap enough I actually bought a second to leave set up for my current hunting loads while messing with other stuff, the 180 HH was a sledge hammer on deer this year and I'm not changing that up any time soon.

Credit: @ButterBean