Help me please

darrindlh

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Okay I have been asking a lot of questions , and I am sorry for one more. I am on a budget and until I buy custom dies for my Edge , I bought Lee 338 Rum dies.
How do I know if I am on the shoulder to much? I know I need to back the sizing die back. What is the feeling I am looking for. Will there be a hard stop On the shoulder? I just want to learn. Im sorry for all my queations

Darrin
 
No need to be sorry. We all were new to this at some point. The best way to know when you're pushing the shoulder back enough/too much is with a shoulder bump gauge or comparator and calipers. Size a small amount then check your brass with calipers and gauge. Repeat until you've pushed the shoulder back .001-.002. Then lock your die in place. Others may chime in and have a different method but this process works for me.
 
No need to be sorry. We all were new to this at some point. The best way to know when you're pushing the shoulder back enough/too much is with a shoulder bump gauge or comparator and calipers. Size a small amount then check your brass with calipers and gauge. Repeat until you've pushed the shoulder back .001-.002. Then lock your die in place. Others may chime in and have a different method but this process works for me.
I have a comparator and do bump my shoulders back .002 however the 338 Rum case is .091 shorter than the 300 rum case the edge is based on. I can not full length size an edge case. So when I am expanding the necks of the 300 rum cases to 338 I do not want to hit the shoulder.
I think what I am saying is I'm setting up the 338 rum die to only neck size my edge.
 
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You will know if you remove the stem and continue moving the die down when you touch the shoulder, it will be felt, if not, measure it. Watch to see when 100% of the neck is sized, this is not necessary after discovering that measurement, back the die off .010", about a 1/8 turn out.
I have dies set so that only 80% of the neck is touched using a Neck die, then I have FL dies that touch the shoulder, or body dies depending on the case design.
I had Redding 338Edge dies, this is my recommendation, get the Deluxe set with FL, Neck, Seater.

Cheers.
 
Okay I have been asking a lot of questions , and I am sorry for one more. I am on a budget and until I buy custom dies for my Edge , I bought Lee 338 Rum dies.
How do I know if I am on the shoulder to much? I know I need to back the sizing die back. What is the feeling I am looking for. Will there be a hard stop On the shoulder? I just want to learn. Im sorry for all my queations

Darrin
I have a comparator and do bump my shoulders back .002 however the 338 Rum case is .091 shorter than the 300 rum case the edge is based on. I can not full length size an edge case. So when I am expanding the necks of the 300 rum cases to 338 I do not want to hit the shoulder.
I think what I am saying is I'm setting up the 338 rum die to only neck size my edge.
Did someone recommend the .338 RUM die to you for your .338 Edge?
I had Redding 338Edge dies, this is my recommendation, get the Deluxe set with FL, Neck, Seater.

Cheers.
☝️ Instead of a custom die, if you are on a budget.👆
 
Did someone recommend the .338 RUM die to you for your .338 Edge?

☝️ Instead of a custom die, if you are on a budget.👆
No, I just know that it can be used while I save up to get whidden click full length bushing dies. Redding dies are considered a custom option. Hornady will make me a die set for $195. I was reading this thread.


Darrin
 
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No, I just know that it can be used while I save up to get whidden click full length bushing dies. Redding dies are considered a custom option. Hornady will make me a die set for $195. I was reading this thread.


Darrin
Yes, I remember reading that thread. John Whidden made my first wildcat dies, including hydraulic fire-forming dies. On my last custom build (.338 Thor), since I had all the reamers, my GS made me all the dies (hydraulic forming, sizing, and seating dies, as well as COAL/CBTO gauge) using blank dies for half the price and waiting cost.
 
You can us a sharpie to color the case neck of a piece of 338 Edge brass, then slowly run it into a 338 RUM die. You'll just check the brass for when the sharpie has rubbed off.

The easy way is to use a stack of feeler gauges or shims to get as close to the .091" difference as possible. Then use that as a spacer between the shell holder and bottom of the die to get it adjusted right.

FWIW, I shot out a 338 Edge barrel without ever owning a set of 338 Edge dies.
 
You can us a sharpie to color the case neck of a piece of 338 Edge brass, then slowly run it into a 338 RUM die. You'll just check the brass for when the sharpie has rubbed off.

The easy way is to use a stack of feeler gauges or shims to get as close to the .091" difference as possible. Then use that as a spacer between the shell holder and bottom of the die to get it adjusted right.

FWIW, I shot out a 338 Edge barrel without ever owning a set of 338 Edge dies.
Thank you
 
No, I just know that it can be used while I save up to get whidden click full length bushing dies. Redding dies are considered a custom option. Hornady will make me a die set for $195. I was reading this thread.


Darrin
FYI Whidden is no longer taking custom die orders.
I've had very poor luck with Hornady dies. They are the only dies I have had stuck cases with.

There are several manufacturers that offer 338 Edge dies without having to go custom including Whidden.



 
No, I just know that it can be used while I save up to get whidden click full length bushing dies. Redding dies are considered a custom option. Hornady will make me a die set for $195. I was reading this thread.


Darrin

I use Hornady. The guy recognized my voice last time because I bought so many custom dies.
 

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