If it pushes the gauge, then it'll push the cartridge also. It evens out. Brass rubs, wears and thins out off the base (maybe not on BA's), so steel gauges (to me) are the way too go. If I question what I do and how I do it, I wouldn't do it that way. IF you're criticizing me it's ok. I don't have an issue with that. It just works for me. If I were doing work for someone else's firearm, I would probably do it different.
Headspace question for new Carbon6 prefit barrel
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MagnumManiac
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On REM 700's, I have done it either way…but when I am turning a barrel shoulder, threads and bolt nose recesses, I measure with the plunger ejector removed.
I always torque barrels to 100lbs/ft on non-switch barrel set-ups.
Cheers.
I always torque barrels to 100lbs/ft on non-switch barrel set-ups.
Cheers.
FullCurl8
Well-Known Member
I've never seen a brass headspace gauge before, not sure we're talking the same thing sir. Not criticizing, some newer folks are looking for suggestions on Headspacing and problems associated with same. After 30 years of rifle building I offered up what the expectations are in my shop and why.
I stated brass inly because some try and headspace with their fired brass. Not sure why? I'm not suggesting that not removing the ejector isn't a better or best way, only my way that has worked for 8 years. I only do it that way in my builds. On building someone else's or on hand guiding I would recommend remthe ejector. For double checking I gave set headspace with the ejector in and then removed it and rechecked. Found it made 0 difference. I will state that there could be minor variance in spacing, but have no way to check it.
I would think a loaded round would act the same as a guage why not do it as arlife suggested
