Gunsmith to Install Limbsaver on Sendero Stock

[kwe182]

I'm looking for recommendations for a gunsmith to install a Limbsaver recoil pad on my Remington 700 Sendero HS Precision stock. I contacted HS and have not gotten a response back yet.

So I just wanted to see what my options were.

Thanks

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

not sure its worth paying a gunsmith for something you can do yourself

they have a model ( you will have to look up ) that will fit with 2 screws -

i am pretty sure this one fit mine , you should double check
https://www.amazon.com/LimbSaver-Cl...gton/product-reviews/B00162PYG6?pageNumber=78

it has a hard plastic shoulder that sits slightly over flush , that works well for me ... a different guy may be OCD & more picky and want that perfectly flush fit ,

read the instructions before printing , so diagrams will be actual size
https://www.limbsaver.com/recoilpadguide

now would be a great time to adjust for length of pull , if it is not a perfect fit for you

 

[kwe182]

Awesome thanks

 

[slas]

I'm in the same delima as you. I have a Sendero SFII 300 WM H-S stock, and want to put a limbsaver on. I've read several post siggesting leaving your rifle in the freezer for two days in order to "break" the old stock pad off cleanly before working to put the new limbsaver on. I've yet to attempt it but would be curious what other have successfully done.

 

[kwe182]

I did end up installing a small grind to fit limbsaver.
I want too happy with the finally fit, my own fault. I'm not sure the easiest way to bring the rubber down.
I tried freezing the pad before I starting grinding it down. That didn't really help. The rubber was all over my shop from my bench sander. I used 220 grit pad.

I'll see how the pattern from the link above fits.

I did contact H-S, they will install a recoil pad, just not the Limbsaver for $145, I didn't really want to spend that much at this point. They have to repaint it so that's why it's expensive. Even though it would be done right. At this point I'm not 100% sold on this stock anyway so I didn't want to dump a bunch of money into it, the pad I bought was 22.00.

Getting the old pad off is kind of a bitch, it didn't break clean, so I used my bench sander to square it up.
Just remember there is nothing to screw the new pad into, I found another forum where a guy installed wood sleeves with JB weld and used a bench grinder to square up the end, I forgot the site though.

Don't use softwood either, stupid mistake by me, I ended up redoing mine. I'm not sure what would be the best material to use.
I ended up with Oak 5/8" dowel and JB welded it into the stock.

 

[Kevin Cram]

To get old pads off I take the screws out first off course. I then wrap a 2 layers off masking tape around the butt end where the cut will be. I then set the stock up on my 12" miter saw using shims to get the stock squared up to where I want the cut. I use a fine tooth blade and cut the old pad off right at the pad / stock joint. I'll spray some expanding foam in the butt cavity to take up the space. Not all the way to the top, I leave about a 1/2 or better. After it cures I fill the rest in with Duraglass just slightly below the end of the stock. I've stopped using Limbsave pads as they're like trying to grind jello. For a super soft pad Pachmayr's XLT pad is one of my favorites. I'll sand the base of the pad flat on my 12" disc sander. I then use Devcon 5 min. epoxy to affix the pad to the stock. I generally put the stock under my mill table and lower the table slightly to apply some pressure and let it sit for a couple hours. I prefer to wait at least 24 hours before grinding the pad to make sure the epoxy is fully cured. No need for screws, and I've never had a pad come off. I use an 1/2" wide 80 grit sanding belt on my air sander. The 80 grit makes quick work to take the excess rubber down until I just start nicking the masking tape. I'll then finish sanding it by hand with 120 grit and keeping the sand paper wet with WD-40. I'll finish off wet sanding with 400 grit and WD-40. To not ruin the stock finish I go down just enough that I'm not through the masking tape. You'll have a small approximate .005" step in the end. To get a perfect transition you would end up scuffing the stock and needing a new paint job.

 

[kwe182]

Good tips, thanks for sharing your process

 

[Pa Grizz]

Good tips, thanks for sharing your process

I have put three of the limbsavers on my guns.You need to be careful on the angle of the stock to make it look right.I have a tool that adjusts to the stock.They work good after cutting them down to fit