Getting sharp lines when bedding the action?

[asd9055]

Thank you so much

I wish you had some step by step pictures of us novices

 

[Deviant]

Looking for tips and tricks for getting nice sharp edges, particularly at the marked area of this stock at the barrel shank bedding area.
I've used modeling clay to dam the flow with mixed results. I've also used masking tape to create a place on the stock to hand finish back to in case the compound flows forward.
Any cool hacks to try?
Thanks.

I cut it while its still soft enough before its fully cured.

 

[GonzoK34]

I'm leaving in the morning for a deer hunt in central Utah. Be hunting with friends for 2 weeks. I will get something together afterward. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[asd9055]

I'm leaving in the morning for a deer hunt in central Utah. Be hunting with friends for 2 weeks. I will get something together afterward. Thanks for the suggestion!

No rush! Enjoy the hunt and good luck!

 

[bachekermooni]

I put Scotch tape inside the stock - centering it where I want the line. Put small amount of modeling clay on it. I then use a single ply sheet from a 2-ply TP tissue over it. Put the action in. Squeeze it down to form fit the putty. Remove the action and TP tissue. Use Xacto knife to cut the tape and putty. Bed as usual. Use a Dremel to remove the oozed over glass. That is the best method I have used.
BTW, I only use clear Kiwi shoe polish (buffed with a soft cloth to a shine) for release agent. Perfect release every time - near zero gap between action and glass. Removes from the action with a bit of alcohol afterwards.

 

[Bob Wright]

I put Scotch tape inside the stock - centering it where I want the line. Put small amount of modeling clay on it. I then use a single ply sheet from a 2-ply TP tissue over it. Put the action in. Squeeze it down to form fit the putty. Remove the action and TP tissue. Use Xacto knife to cut the tape and putty. Bed as usual. Use a Dremel to remove the oozed over glass. That is the best method I have used.
BTW, I only use clear Kiwi shoe polish (buffed with a soft cloth to a shine) for release agent. Perfect release every time - near zero gap between action and glass. Removes from the action with a bit of alcohol afterwards.

That solves modeling clay sticking to the barrel when forming/trimming. Just couldn't get the clay to stick in the stock for trimming. Thanks! Lots of ideas I have received here.

 

[bachekermooni]

That solves modeling clay sticking to the barrel when forming/trimming. Just couldn't get the clay to stick in the stock for trimming. Thanks! Lots of ideas I have received here.

try blue masking tape. you just have to be ready to remove the little blue line from the end of the dried glass.

 

[muleystalker]

Here is one I just finished up today, kind of a rush job. I still have to do load development and heading out of state in a week and a half. This is Devcon stainless.

 

[Bob Wright]

Very nice!

 

[DSheetz]

muleystalker , I like that the action is fully beded instead of just the front and tang .

 

[1yotedog]

Kinda late in getting in here..... grandparent duties for distant learning kids keeps you busy! Many good suggestions on bedding techniques so far so I'll only add what hasn't been said already. First, the stock/barrel channel must be opened enough to allow the barrel to sit freely centered up/down and side/side in the barrel channel without having to pry the fit with tape or other means. More on this in a moment but if you had to pry the forend over, it'll just spring back when the tape is removed. Second, as the OP noted, clay leaves less than great edges in the bedding so I've taken to using Bondo. The Bondo is layed into the channel over masking tape and allows the Bondo to be pried off the stock at the end of the job. When placing the Bondo, clay is used to prevent the Bondo from flowing into the receiver/lug area and is removed when the Bondo has set, which is only about 5 minutes. This is when you assure that the barreled action is properly setting in the stock. Once the clay is removed, the face of Bondo dam is cleaned up with simple scraping/cutting tools to create the front face that will form the crisp front edge of the bedding. As noted above, you've given the barreled action some wiggle room in the stock and using Bondo this way is a no-fail way to be sure the action is setting properly centered when it is slipped into the wet epoxy without using tapes or other spacers for support. Of course, this is working in concert with pillars that you've already installed. Also, the hard front Bondo dam forces the epoxy to fully rise up and daylight along the edge of the stock instead of just oozing along the underside. I've just bought another Christensen rifle (20in 6.5 Creed) and know going into it that I'll be replacing the factory "spot" bedding using this Bondo technique to define the edge of the bedding at the metal/carbon junction of the barrel.

 

[muleystalker]

muleystalker , I like that the action is fully beded instead of just the front and tang .

Thanks, I do most of my actions full bed I feel it does abetter job and it doesn't allow anything to get in-between the action and the stock like just bedding the tang and lug can. I also did it with this Lone Peak Fusion Ti action because it isn't a round bottom it is a Multi flat action so if not full bedded it leaves even more space for foreign objects to get between the action and stock that may cause interference, plus it just looks great. There is nothing like a nicely done full bedding job.

 

[jimbires]

I did one over again , that the bedding was failing . it had a loose pillar , the bedding was cracking and falling out . the original bedding job let the compound just run forward too . I ground out all the old bedding with a dremel . reset the pillar , and bedded it with 10110 devcon . I used Ernie the gun smith accu risers , so I had firm contact with the pillars . this is an aluminum block stock .

 

[DSheetz]

I also think that a fully bedded action will have less movement or flexing when working the bolt and firing a round .