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Action bedding - help with the hard part!

moxford

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
101
Help.

Did my second one. Pre-waxed (Johnson's Paste Wax), clay'd up (polymer), re-waxed. Popped out good.

Now the really hard part: what's the magic to get all the wax and residual off/out of the action? :D

Denatured alcohol doesn't seem to work. Heat it up with a heat gun and wipe it all down with rags and a zillion q-tips? The initial pop-out was mildly stressful, but this is straight up aggravating. :p

TIA for any tips on cleaners or techniques ... !

Cheers,
-mox
 
I use heat, rags and elbow grease myself for removal of johnsons paste wax. Works pretty well. And yes, quite a few q tips for the nooks and cranies where I used clay. I'm sure there is probably an easier way, but I don't know it.
 
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I hate furniture work, I would rather chamber 3 barrels than bed one rifle. However, when I do, I use what LRI sells. Available elsewhere I am sure, just too lazy to look for other sources.

 
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Help.

Did my second one. Pre-waxed (Johnson's Paste Wax), clay'd up (polymer), re-waxed. Popped out good.

Now the really hard part: what's the magic to get all the wax and residual off/out of the action? :D

Denatured alcohol doesn't seem to work. Heat it up with a heat gun and wipe it all down with rags and a zillion q-tips? The initial pop-out was mildly stressful, but this is straight up aggravating. :p

TIA for any tips on cleaners or techniques ... !

Cheers,
-mox
An old tooth brush with Denatured Alcohol , Depending on the finish on the action you can try acetone but don't get it on the stock or bedding. My experience with using heat it seemed to drive it down into all the tight spots and into to the micro scopes pores of the metal and made it harder to get it all off. Also I use oil base modeling clay not polymer, it doesn't dry out and oil base naturally keeps the bedding from sticking to it and its reusable.
 
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An old tooth brush with Denatured Alcohol , Depending on the finish on the action you can try acetone but don't get it on the stock or bedding. My experience with using heat it seemed to drive it down into all the tight spots and into to the micro scopes pores of the metal and made it harder to get it all off. Also I use oil base modeling clay not polymer, it doesn't dry out and oil base naturally keeps the bedding from sticking to it and its reusable.
This is what I've been using for sometime now
image.jpg
 
I've been using clear Kiwi shoe polish for a release agent. I put a thin coat on let dry and polish off, then repeat. I also use the same sort of clay as pictured above. I pop the barreled action out of the stock after a couple of days and clean it up with a rag with some WD-40 or other penetrating oil. Sometimes you need to scrub it a little with a toothbrush to get some of the clay residue that might have gotten into some little that you can't wipe out very good. After that I wipe it down with some lacquer thinner, then reapply some sort of light oil on it.
 
Help.

Did my second one. Pre-waxed (Johnson's Paste Wax), clay'd up (polymer), re-waxed. Popped out good.

Now the really hard part: what's the magic to get all the wax and residual off/out of the action? :D

Denatured alcohol doesn't seem to work. Heat it up with a heat gun and wipe it all down with rags and a zillion q-tips? The initial pop-out was mildly stressful, but this is straight up aggravating. :p

TIA for any tips on cleaners or techniques ... !

Cheers,
-mox
I have yet to do a stock but will be soon. I'm kind of confused as to why no one uses tape in the beginning ? I paint cars. And we always tape up what you don't want paint on. This way seems like it could save a lot of time & effort in cleanup for the stock. They sell a fine line tape. Just remove the tape after installing & torquing the action. As far as the action it definitely needs sprayed well as Boyds video explained. The video could have been a little better as far as listing the right barrier lube to use (looks like liquid wrench to me in video). And what type of cleaner to use afterwards. As LT88 stated Pam sounds like a good alternative for the action, barrier. I know you're past this point. But I am also looking for info on this subject. I would think Dawn & hot water should clean up the rest. Blow out with air. Oil well after cleaning with hot water & soap.
At least I'm hoping this works out. lol
 
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Thickness of the tape, it changes the diameter of the mating surface
I'm not saying to put it on where pieces mate together. Just close enough to keep excess from getting on stock surface. Dry fit the action to see where you need to run your tapeline. It could save a lot of time in cleanup IMO.
 
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