G7 to G1 conversion

Huskema (in the instuctions in the box with the scope) says to shoot your tuned load through a chronogragh record average speed( remember to include elevation and temperature as well as humidity). Then record adjustment to scope at beginining yardage out to desired maximum yardage then send info to huskema and they will build the turret for him based on his information that he has (doped info).
Ya, we pulled up the page for info to send in for turret. I think with all the help here I've got a good idea how to get the trued g1. Really appreciate everyone's suggestions and might help others.
 
According to my notes from years ago, G1 BC form factor is for flat-based bullets. G7 BC is for boat-tail bullets, and therefore more applicable for long range shooting. Another note: The sectional density divided by the form factor = BC. Hope that helps.
 
At least he wants the simplified yardage dial..

I once had to help a guy who bought a top end Schmidt & Bender with all the reticle markings put on top of a custom Jarret rifle (guessing $10k all in), and had to print the hold over in inches on the side of his stock since he couldn't / couldn't figure out how to use dials or the reticle.
 
According to my notes from years ago, G1 BC form factor is for flat-based bullets. G7 BC is for boat-tail bullets, and therefore more applicable for long range shooting. Another note: The sectional density divided by the form factor = BC. Hope that helps.
That sounds right. I think there is a good discussion on this topic in one of my load manuals. I believe it's Brian Litz's explanation. IIR was o good read. Also good discussion on stats WRT predictions of accuracy/precision etc;
 
At least he wants the simplified yardage dial..

I once had to help a guy who bought a top end Schmidt & Bender with all the reticle markings put on top of a custom Jarret rifle (guessing $10k all in), and had to print the hold over in inches on the side of his stock since he couldn't / couldn't figure out how to use dials or the reticle.
Ha! That sounds like my brother!
 
I get it that people like to dial their scopes with "trued" indicators on a turret.

As for me I much prefer to use my G3 smack "Xmas tree" reticle instead of dialing. I do the same thing in competition with a larger H59 reticle so I'm used to doing it.

My system is laser rangefinder binoculars for distance and a Vortex lens cap insert of hold over values every 100 yards to 500 yards and then use the reticle the cap insert says, or a hold in between if the distance indicates.

But SIG/Sauer's BDX system is about the best when used with Hornady's 4DOF ballistic engine and accurate muzzle velocity numbers. Yeah, I've heard some states don't permit this system for hunting. Too bad, they need to move into the 21st century.
Eric B.
 
He was looking really hard at a sig sauer setup for a 6creed I'm helping him build. I sent him a different direction only because he was wanting to do some target shooting as well as hunting and that indicator didn't look like it would be very good for precision. Would have been cool to see how well it really worked though. He's got one of they're range finders with the ballistic app I want to try on some angled shots out to 1090 and see how close it gets. Says he has to buy some sort of card for different cartridges. Crazy stuff these days
 
Is there a simple way to convert g7 to g1? I'm helping a friend do load work up on a hammer bullet and he wants to have a turret made for his huskemah ( not sure I spelled that right) . It's only for distance out to 600 so I'm hoping the box g7 will be close and I'll double check drop but they want trued g1 bc for turret info
BDC turrets are like hand grenades.......area tools. Take the time to learn ballistics, dialing for drop, hold for wind. One will be more accurate. BDC turret, a crutch for the lazy among us, is POSSIBLY only correct for a single set of parameters....T, P, elv. ES/Sd.......area tool for all other sets. Throw a Hail Mary round down range, you'll be as close.
 
Is there a simple way to convert g7 to g1? I'm helping a friend do load work up on a hammer bullet and he wants to have a turret made for his huskemah ( not sure I spelled that right) . It's only for distance out to 600 so I'm hoping the box g7 will be close and I'll double check drop but they want trued g1 bc for turret info
Is there a simple way to convert g7 to g1? I'm helping a friend do load work up on a hammer bullet and he wants to have a turret made for his huskemah ( not sure I spelled that right) . It's only for distance out to 600 so I'm hoping the box g7 will be close and I'll double check drop but they want trued g1 bc for turret info
Neal,
It's Huskemaw.
After reading your post, I am unclear regarding what you are trying to do. It sounds like the owner wants Best of the West to burn an elevation turret for one of their Huskemaw scopes. Right ???
If that is the case, you are chasing the tail of the wrong cat. ASSUMING you are shooting LOADED ammunition ( not making your
own ), after zeroing the fun at 100 or 200 yds, you need to count the number of clicks to each 100 yard distance ( preferably out to 1000 yds) and send that LIVE FIRE information to BOTW; along with the other information they requested, I.e., elevation, temperature on the single day you collected this info, humidity, bullet ( weight, make, bc, muzzle velocity ( would ne nice ). In turn, BOTW will burn a turret for that specific gun, bullet, MV, and elevation… all based on your live fire data. You do not use an app. You are creating a BDC turret, thereby bypassing all the gadgetry. Even the wind hold is burnt into the turret for each distance. This is not a Nightforce type scope, No MOA calculations, no apps. Just read the yardage, aim, and shoot.
 
Doug is correct BDC is built for a specific round at specific ambiant conditions. I have one on the 7mm WSM dial and squeeze. Important thing is to verify the drop per ambiant conditions and elevation.
 
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