Fliers
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It can be a ton of things. Neck tension was off, seating depth needs adjusting, powder charge not in a node or it could be the rifle itself. If you look, you have two that are close in velocity and one is 40+fps lower. That would tell me that you are not in a good node for powder charge but you would have to test it and see. There are literally 1000 questions that need to be asked before narrowing it down though. Did you let the barrel cool between shots, were you shooting from a clean, cold barrel....etc.
If it's always the third shot, it's most likely a warm barrel.
Could be a lot of things....way too many with info you provided. What shot is what order? Barrel contour, Standard SD, is it constant issue, how do other bullets/loads do, shooting technique, action/barrel bedded, brake, etc. etc. If you can provide a little more details on what you are doing or have done to eliminate it would help narrow down the possible causes.....a little anyways. Edit.... I have a custom 223 that IMO just has a crap barrel period end of story. The only bullets that shoot consistent and not even close to expectation are hand made target bullets. I'm not spending a dollar a bullet to shoot birds and squirrels. I have pages and pages of testing, gunsmith re-work, etc., and this gun I have put more testing into probably 20 rifles combined....just sucks and Lilja asks why isn't a .3" group good enough? Well let me tell you cousin...with the factory barrel it shot better than .3" using 50, 52, 55 grain ballistic tip and Sierra MK bullets and I paid less for the entire rifle than just your freaking "match grade hand lapped barrel" that.s why. Wow....I think that gun irritates me a little.
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Elk Hunter 338
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I'm going too say that if your only 3050 fps with a 200gr bullet you need too stand on it bud!! big cases need case fill and velocity too tame them out! make sure you have a good powder too get a full case ... if too much volume is left over you'll get eratic results
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codyadams
Well-Known Member
As was said, could be a lot of things. Rifle bedding has issues, action screws coming loose, scope base screws loose, scope ring caps coming loose, not enough torque on the rings, too much torque on the rings, front scope base screw too long and hitting barrel tennon, scope itself having problems, muzzle brake loose, paralax not properly set, inconsistent shooter form, inconsistent trigger press, not enough trigger overtravel, trigger pins contacting bedding, barrel not floated, and that is just some of the possibilities with just the rifle and shooter, without even getting into load developement......
If you are 100% sure the rifle system is sound, as in you have another load that is known to shoot well and is still shooting, and your also sure that you didn't pull the shot, then there is a problem with the load, and if that is 100 yards, it seems to really not like it. Also, that is a huge e.s., I would look for a node in a different velocity range, likely higher with that bullet weight and chambering, and depending on what you have tested in the load, check the affects of different primers.
If you are 100% sure the rifle system is sound, as in you have another load that is known to shoot well and is still shooting, and your also sure that you didn't pull the shot, then there is a problem with the load, and if that is 100 yards, it seems to really not like it. Also, that is a huge e.s., I would look for a node in a different velocity range, likely higher with that bullet weight and chambering, and depending on what you have tested in the load, check the affects of different primers.
HeadedWest
Well-Known Member
I'd shoot a 4th one. How long since you punch the bore? Are you shooting the ammo for the first time. Maybe your firearm doesn't like it. Watch your breathing and trigger sqeeze and make true your scope is stable. And make sure the stock is snug tight to the receiver. Them bedding issues are over rated like the 6.5 creed hype.
Zen Archery
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Sure it's not your cbz (cold bore zero)?
My primary gun always shoots a 1:00 first then every shot groups.
My primary gun always shoots a 1:00 first then every shot groups.
Thank you all very much. Need to check some things. The rifle shoots 180 grain very well but maybe it just doesn't like heavy Bullets. Barrel was plenty cool between shots and screws are all tight. Also this is a new load that I was trying. Thanks again
Longrangers
Well-Known Member
Push it up
zplinker
Active Member
A couple examples of things I've run into, and one was with a 30-378 Wby. In that case, the muzzle brake had not been cryo-treated, and reacted differently to the barrel heating up. Couple good shots, then bad. Wby. did correct that problem for the customer. Another, a custom built 270, had the bolt nose touching the barrel after it warmed up from a couple shots. Found that problem when measuring for a new barrel.
Longrangers
Well-Known Member
I presently run 215 or 230 grain Berger's with H50 powder. Gun shoots well.
I've had 2 I just got rid of them.
I had one well-used rifle that sent fliers every third shot no matter who was shooting it, no matter how hot the barrel was or no matter whether you used reloads or factory ammo. 1st & 2nd shots were always very close but the third one was usually out around 8" @ only 100 yds.
I just attrubuted it to the barrel being shot-out & got rid of it.
As others here have eluded to, I would suspect that barrel heat-up is likely your issue. I've owned a couple of rifles whose barrels "crawled" A LOT during heat up of the first 3 shots or so. (May be a coincidence but both had stainless barrels)
I currently own a fluted stainless barrel which demonstrates no abnormalities.
I think the key to 90% of rifle accuracy woes is finding the right ammo for the rifle/distance. JMO
I just attrubuted it to the barrel being shot-out & got rid of it.
As others here have eluded to, I would suspect that barrel heat-up is likely your issue. I've owned a couple of rifles whose barrels "crawled" A LOT during heat up of the first 3 shots or so. (May be a coincidence but both had stainless barrels)
I currently own a fluted stainless barrel which demonstrates no abnormalities.
I think the key to 90% of rifle accuracy woes is finding the right ammo for the rifle/distance. JMO
