Finishing a laminated stock?

[Beelzebub]

I just purchased a new 99% inlet stock. Once I finish sanding and fitting the stock, what is the best thing to "coat" it with. It is 4 different color laminates, so I want to keep it as clear as possible, but I want something tuff and durable also. Anyone that has finished a relatively moderate priced stock with any degree of success please enlighten me.

tks in advance,
B

 

[geargrinder]

Plain old polyurethane would be best and hold up to the elements well.

The epoxy used in the laminating system is pretty much soaked into the laminate plys. Whatever you use isn't going to soak into the wood. It's going to be a mechanical bond to the sanding grooves.

 

[Dosh]

Plain old polyurethane would be best and hold up to the elements well.

The epoxy used in the laminating system is pretty much soaked into the laminate plys. Whatever you use isn't going to soak into the wood. It's going to be a mechanical bond to the sanding grooves.

+1 the poly is what works for me. Sand lightly between well dried coats being sure to remove the powdery sanding dust. After about 10-15 light coats sand lightly with 2000 grit and apply auto buffing compound and buff. If you have any checkering mask it before starting poly and leave it till the buffing is done so the poly doesn't build up in the checkering. Ive found poly doesn't like heat or cold ( sort of like some powders).

 

[HRstretch]

I used to tounge oil on my last laminate and have had no issues with the finish.

 

[J E Custom]

If you like a hand rubbed finish, the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil works good and also Permalyn. Maybe Joel will chime in (He is the resident guru on stock finishes.

Both finishes are very durable and they can be touched up later very easy.

if you use any of the hand rubbed oil finishes, apply the first coat continually until the wood will not take any more. This allows the oil finish to penetrate and seal the stock. After that it is just a simple matter of applying a coat, letting it dry, and using steel wool to smooth and level it.

Just more options.

J E CUSTOM

 

[tinkerer]

I believe we have been down this road, but nonetheless.

Tung Oil penetrates and seals, good inside and out, can be had in flat to glossy.

Polyurethane coats, but does not penetrate very well. Hard as a rock.

I would suggest a coat of tung oil, let dry, and sand back. Repeat until wood is sealed and smooth as glass. Let dry 3 days.

Spray with poly (many good brands,available in rattle cans) 1 coat. wait 30 minutes, recoat, wait 30 minutes, recoat, wait 72 hours. Sand with 600 wet.

Repeat. Should be glass and shiny by now. I wax mine with Johnson's Paste Wax for a dry and non-slip feel. Also helps water repealing efforts.

Worked for me many times.

Larry
Tinkerer