FFP vs SFP

[MT257]

I am looking to put a new scope on a hunting rifle. I am wondering if I go with a SFP, if at the range I sight it in on say 20 which would be the highest power the scope has and then turn it down to around 14 will I see any impact difference? How bout if I sight in on 14 and then move it up to 20 before shooting will there be an impact change at distances? Is it worth looking into a FFP for hunting? I have never had a scope where I've turned turrets for hunting and just see it as it could bite a guy in a split second. Any insight is appreciated.

 

[FEENIX]

I am looking to put a new scope on a hunting rifle. I am wondering if I go with a SFP, if at the range I sight it in on say 20 which would be the highest power the scope has and then turn it down to around 14 will I see any impact difference? How bout if I sight in on 14 and then move it up to 20 before shooting will there be an impact change at distances? Is it worth looking into a FFP for hunting? I have never had a scope where I've turned turrets for hunting and just see it as it could bite a guy in a split second. Any insight is appreciated.

FFP is not for everybody. This boils down to personal preference, esp. on type of reticle, illum vs non-illum, type of environment (timber), range. I hunt with both FFP and SFP and do have any problem transitioning between the two.





To me it was worth the try. Good luck!

 

[mwkelso]

There would not be any POI change with either.
I started on a SFP with no issues. You will need to verify what power the scope must be set on for your reticle drops to be accurate though.
You're right, a SFP can bite a guy in the butt pretty hard if you use your reticle drop and forget to set your magnification to the correct setting. FFP the reticle is accurate no matter what magnification power you're set to.
If you're planning on using turrets only though, I think you could go either route and be okay. I still have a SFP on my .270 and it works perfect. But when I need to dope for distance, I use turrets rather than the reticle.
I have a FFP on my 300WM and it works perfect as well. Again though, I use my turrets to dope for distance though.
If the animal is close enough that you don't have time to dope, then the choice of FFP vs SFP should have no difference in your shot placement or POI.

 

[cohunt]

the Zero distance point (center of reticle) will not change with power on either


SFP,-- --- BUT, the "BDC" drop points/ mil marks etc. will chance distances with power change --- good way to see this is to use the strelok app and adjust the "zoom" in the "reticle" tab-- you will see the zero point stays the same, but the drop points change

FFP the drop points will not change, BUT the reticle size will increase an decrease with "zoom" --

zero is zero (pretty much)

advantages and disadvantages to both systems

FFP is often times easier to "range" your target if you know its size, yet drop points are not adjustable so they may be odd distances and the reticle may cover too much of your target on full zoom at longer distances

SFP, drop points are "adjustable", reticle size wont change, but ranging is slightly more difficult

there is also the personal preference part of it all too, I prefer the SFP for hunting as I use a LRF

 

[762x51]

POI should not shift when you are cycling through magnifications, if it does, you need to throw the scope away.

most of my scopes are SFP but i do have one FFP. the biggest thing to remember is if you have a ranging reticle or BDC reticle, it is only designed to be used on one power setting in an SFP scope. the owners manual for the optic should tell you which power that is. with an FFP the reticle should be accurate on any power level.

 

[ButterBean]

I've shot both but am strictly a FFP Mil shooter now, IMO its much simpler, I know someone will say that the retical shrinking becomes useless any second now but I have found with a FFP scope in low light conditions I dial down to the lowest power and place the Deer between the heavy Sub Tensions and its a no brainier as long as i do my part, To me the sub tensions and hold overs staying the same out weighs any other disadvantage, As Feenix said they are not for everybody but if you don't like it they are easy to get rid of

 

[ShtrRdy]

Something else to keep in mind with a SFP scope - you can set the power setting on 1/2 of the magnification setting to calibrate the reticle and then use the reticle hash marks as twice their value.

 

[ButterBean]

Something else to keep in mind with a SFP scope - you can set the power setting on 1/2 of the magnification setting to calibrate the reticle and then use the reticle hash marks as twice their value.

This is true but its just that much more to keep up with IMO

 

[josef]

I am looking to put a new scope on a hunting rifle. I am wondering if I go with a SFP, if at the range I sight it in on say 20 which would be the highest power the scope has and then turn it down to around 14 will I see any impact difference? How bout if I sight in on 14 and then move it up to 20 before shooting will there be an impact change at distances? Is it worth looking into a FFP for hunting? I have never had a scope where I've turned turrets for hunting and just see it as it could bite a guy in a split second. Any insight is appreciated.

What you are describing is a term called track out. The better quality the scope the less likely it is to have track out. In todays day and age track out is less and less of an issue even with less expensive imported optics.

 

[brcfo_outdoors]

I have converted over to all FFP/Mil scopes and would recommend it highly if you are trying to take long range shots. I find it easier to calculate drops, and as mentioned above, its is less math (which I am terrible at) trying to figure double adjustments at half magnification, etc. I personally like dialing as opposed to holding, and I have the Sig Kilo 2400 ABS range finder which makes an excellent combo. My rifle profile and ballistic data is loaded into my phone and synched with the range finder. All I have to do is range my target, it tells my my dope while I am still looking through the lens, I then dial at whatever magnification I am on, and take the shot. It is a pretty fool proof system.

SFP, in my opinion comes more into play if you don't have subtensions on your reticle, or you simply like to hold over and shoot within about 300 yards. Where the FFP I feel benefits from a more versatile PRS style reticle (Vortex EBR7C for example is a personal favorite), I think the SFP benefits from a more simple reticle (see the new Vortex Razor HD LHT). Depending on your personal preferences and shooting style, go whichever direction fits you.

 

[TexSavage]

I use SFP. Math not an issue for me, I use some shortcuts and my aging eyes are quite appreciative. I dial my corrections and I know my drops by memory out to 400 yards. If I miss by ½ MOA in that distance, I'm off a max of 2 inches elevation, which I can live with. In hunting my average game kill zone is 8-10" and I practice on 10" and 6" steel gongs. Of course still learning to read the dang wind more accurately. To me, that is the single most difficult and challenging part of shooting at longer ranges and here in the Panhandle of Texas at all ranges. Don't think I'll ever perfect it, but I continue to work at it and have lots of fun. Let's face it, the call you make, using a SFP or a FFP, is the part that will fail more than anything else you do. IMHO and of course, Your mileage may vary.

 

[TRG65]

I have gotten rid of all my SFPs. When I started doing more and more hold over, I found the SFP poor because even if you go to the marked place, it is frequently off by a margin. Also, I usually don't shoot at max power, but pick the power suitable to the situation, which restricted me to only dialing. None of this is a factor with FFP, dial or hold, it's been right. I also am using only FFP/MIL scopes

 

[azarcher10x]

Like several others, I've transitioned nearly all my rifles to FFP, but I'm a MOA guy. I don't usually use the MOA hash mark's unless time is an issue to dial the turret, or as when I'm on low power due to low light. When I do have to use one of my older SFP's, I generally switch the rangefinder to holdover in inches, so I'm not using anything but the center of the crosshairs anyway. Last elk I shot with the '06 with SFP was 456 yds. Rangefinder said hold 36 inches high. I put the crosshairs 24" above it's back, and sent it. DRT!

 

[K9TXS]

Second plane only for me. I'm 71, wear bifocals, have a double astigmatism and eye floaters.

I use a NF MOAR and Leupold TMOA reticles only. No dial turning. SP allows me to easily see my reticles at all times. I tried FFP, but using low power the reticle was too small for me to use. I will scan the fields on low power most of the time and when a rat or dog is spotted, I'm ready to pull the trigger.

I only shoot sage rats and prairie dogs out to about 400 yards with 2, 20 vartarg rifles. After you have shot so many rounds over so many years, you know your rifle, load and what it will do. I do use a laser range finder a lot. We spot for each other and the spotter will call out the distance and wind.