Donuts in 28 Nosler Brass

[Mikecr]

Stop FL sizing the necks

 

[Kmccord]

Well myself personally wouldn't shoot a bullet if It's seated past the shoulder junction and your getting doughnuts. I'm still trying to figure out how your getting doughnuts unless your necking up 26 nosler brass. The doughnuts usually form more when you size the neck back down. I have them in a rifle and can slide the bullet down the fired neck. When the case is resized it creates a doughnut. I can feel it big time when seating a bullet.

I am using 28 Nosler Brass. What is your COAL on your 28 when it is .020 from the Lands? Also, how are you measuring touch on your Lands? I use to measure mine with the Hornady Comparator, but that was really not a correct reading, I checked out Alex Wheeler method by removing firing pin and ejector showed the comparator was really measuring around .010 to .015 longer than true touch measurement. This changed my original seating depth by .010.

 

[Rhovee]

I use the same method to find the lands.

 

[Kmccord]

I use the same method to find the lands.

What is your COAL on your 28 Nosler?

 

[Rhovee]

3.750 with 195s

 

[drborsos]

21st Century produces the very best quality when it comes reloading equipment, check them out if you have not.

 

[Reloader222]

The Foster inside neck reamer works excellent for me. Use it after firing and before resizing. The is no brand of brass that does not develop donuts somewhere along the line. Some just takes longer to produce donuts - like Norma and Lapua. Other brands give donuts even after the first firing.

 

[Kmccord]

The Foster inside neck reamer works excellent for me. Use it after firing and before resizing. The is no brand of brass that does not develop donuts somewhere along the line. Some just takes longer to produce donuts - like Norma and Lapua. Other brands give donuts even after the first firing.

Did you also purchase the outside neck Turner for the foster?

 

[Reloader222]

I just happen to find this problem when I checked a recently fired case by pushing the bullet into the neck and hit a wall about .474 inches in the case. I have been experiencing some accuracy issues, could not get the same load to duplicate the accuracy I had experienced the previous outing. Now you mention an inside neck reamer may take out more of the neck than just the doughnut, but if this reamer is truly .284 then would it not take out nothing more than a doughnut in a fired case?

I have never found any shaving of the inside of the case neck with several brands even those with thicker neck walls. Surely when you have a tight chamber in a custom rifle it could become a problem. With commercial manufactured rifles you will not have any problems.

 

[shphtr]

I have never found any shaving of the inside of the case neck with several brands even those with thicker neck walls. Surely when you have a tight chamber in a custom rifle it could become a problem. With commercial manufactured rifles you will not have any problems.

My problem is that the bearing surface of the bullet is difficult to pass beyond the donut and as a consequence once it has passed the donut I believe the neck tension is inconsistent cartridge to cartridge thus affecting accuracy.

 

[Rhovee]

Your correct. I have fought it before and it really ****es me off. Learned the hard way. A good friend just got a custom back and it's a 6.5 wsm. I told him as cool as it would be to run a big heavy. You need to just shoot a bullet that's above the neck shoulder junction. I just hate dealing with them. Inside neck reamers I have used take out carbon and the doughnut. But when you run it through the sizer it forms again. Neck turning is the correct way in my opinion. And I don't want to get into all that.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Your correct. I have fought it before and it really ****es me off. Learned the hard way. A good friend just got a custom back and it's a 6.5 wsm. I told him as cool as it would be to run a big heavy. You need to just shoot a bullet that's above the neck shoulder junction. I just hate dealing with them. Inside neck reamers I have used take out carbon and the doughnut. But when you run it through the sizer it forms again. Neck turning is the correct way in my opinion. And I don't want to get into all that.

Would you please describe the process you use to remove a donut with neck turning?

Thanks -- Todd

 

[brotherbear67]

Well, just went down and checked my fired brass, 2 firings on it, annealed after first firing and ONE out of 20 that I checked allowed a 195 to freely slip in/out. Double checked everything else I handloads for and no issues. What the heck?

 

[dok7mm]

Would you please describe the process you use to remove a donut with neck turning?

Thanks -- Todd

Todd, this is how I do it:
1. I use a K&M inside reamer, on a tee handle, to remove as much of the donut as possible. I go to the donut before I turn the cutter, to spare the neck from scoring.

2. Push the rest to the outside with expander ball or mandrel. Do this in and out several times.

3. Then I skim turn or turn for chamber neck clearance, being sure to get into the shoulder.

4. Check with pin gauges to verify there is no donut left.

5. Last step is ordering a FL die matched to fit my chamber.

On a hunting rifle with SAAMI reamer that has a loose chamber and a tight die, that is oversizing your brass every time, it will continue to push the shoulder brass into the neck with each shoot/resizing cycle. Brass life can be short. The only solutions are finding a looser die or buying a die made off fired brass. Else you end up with more donuts, if it's a short FB and you have to seat bullets below the neck.