CLR
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I use CLR to clean suppressors, but not in an ultrasonic cleaner. Usually about a 50/50 mixture with water, although I'm sure that you could greatly vary the ratio.
I got the information to use CLR directly from Thunder Beast Arms during a conversation with them at the SHOT show a number of years back. Before hearing this from them, I never would have thought to use it on or in my cans. They advised me to plug the muzzle/exit end with a rubber stopper (available in multiple small diameters from Ace Hardware etc.), then fill the can completely with my CLR/water mixture and allow it to soak overnight while standing upright in a vise/drinking glass etc. The next day, I keep the stopper in place, hold my palm over the larger diameter entry port and shake the crap out of it. The resulting liquid that pours out looks like it came out of a soupy, dirty ashtray - and if needed, I repeat one more time.
After dumping the contents, rinse thoroughly with water and the inside of the can looks dang near brand-new.
Having said that, I am wary of using this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner because it may very well attack and pit the coating and outside surface of the suppressor if left completely submerged, as would be necessary for this method of cleaning. There are various youtube videos from multiple sources that warn against some cleaners used on the outside of cans for this reason.
The most important note here is NEVER to use CLR on aluminum components, as it directly attacks and pits the aluminum!
The bottom line is that in my experience, CLR works exceptionally well to clean the INSIDE of a suppressor. Just be careful with your particular coating/exterior.
Hope this helps.
I got the information to use CLR directly from Thunder Beast Arms during a conversation with them at the SHOT show a number of years back. Before hearing this from them, I never would have thought to use it on or in my cans. They advised me to plug the muzzle/exit end with a rubber stopper (available in multiple small diameters from Ace Hardware etc.), then fill the can completely with my CLR/water mixture and allow it to soak overnight while standing upright in a vise/drinking glass etc. The next day, I keep the stopper in place, hold my palm over the larger diameter entry port and shake the crap out of it. The resulting liquid that pours out looks like it came out of a soupy, dirty ashtray - and if needed, I repeat one more time.
After dumping the contents, rinse thoroughly with water and the inside of the can looks dang near brand-new.
Having said that, I am wary of using this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner because it may very well attack and pit the coating and outside surface of the suppressor if left completely submerged, as would be necessary for this method of cleaning. There are various youtube videos from multiple sources that warn against some cleaners used on the outside of cans for this reason.
The most important note here is NEVER to use CLR on aluminum components, as it directly attacks and pits the aluminum!
The bottom line is that in my experience, CLR works exceptionally well to clean the INSIDE of a suppressor. Just be careful with your particular coating/exterior.
Hope this helps.
I'm going to try straight clr in my ultra sonic cleaner for my can. It's Ti with stainless baffles. But my can is just Ti on the outside no coating or Cerakote. It would surely get removed with clr in an ultra sonic cleaner if it was coated.
Thanks a bunch. Tried a couple of batches not going over 1/4:1 with CLR/water. Everything seemed to come out fine and worked well.
In the ultra sonic cleaner or just left to soak in general?
Got on a spot in a breech of a barrel I missed, walked away for about 10 minutes came back and put my borescope in there to check it out and found the spot. Doudt it hurt anything but if appearance is an issue might be different story or if it was left longer.
Wedgy
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Interesting thread on AS ;
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I put a SS brake in a small cup of CLR and intended to check it in an hour. However, I totally forgot about it and didn't realize it until the next day. The carbon literally floated off the brake. I didn't notice any etching or other issues when I cleaned it up and reinstalled it. If the steel was etched, it wasn't significant enough for me to notice.
Thanks for the insight. I called thunder beast and for their ultra series cans they recommended plugging and soaking in clr over night then flushing with water for a few days. These cans are all Ti, baffles to. For my hta can which is Ti body with stainless baffles they recommended the dip as clr can damage stainless. He also didn't recommend putting clr in most ultra sonic cleaners as they have stainless pans.
Erik Cortina uses it to soak/clean his SS rifle parts. He said he leaves them in overnight w/o issues. He did warn on using it with parts that have coatings. So a test on those parts would be best.
I soaked my SS bolt for a couple hours and a majority of the carbon came off. Threw it in my Ultrasonic cleaner with the hornady solution for 30 min and came out perfect.
Erik has a youtube video about it, if you wanna give it a watch.
I soaked my SS bolt for a couple hours and a majority of the carbon came off. Threw it in my Ultrasonic cleaner with the hornady solution for 30 min and came out perfect.
Erik has a youtube video about it, if you wanna give it a watch.
There are several different stainless steels, perhaps that explains the difference in experiences.
Examples are as follows:
Martensitic: 403, 410, 416
Austenitic: 304, 316, 321, 15-5 PH, 17-4 PH, 17-7 PH, A-286
and more...
Here is a link: https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/metals-metal-products/types-of-stainless-steel/
Of course not all are appropriate for firearm components.
Examples are as follows:
Martensitic: 403, 410, 416
Austenitic: 304, 316, 321, 15-5 PH, 17-4 PH, 17-7 PH, A-286
and more...
Here is a link: https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/metals-metal-products/types-of-stainless-steel/
Of course not all are appropriate for firearm components.
