Cerakote equipment?

[cornchuck]

I'm thinking about getting into Cerakote painting for my own personal use. What compressor are being used for painting projects? Nozzles, orfices, air pressures out of the compressor?

After practicing the tasks, I might try painting some stocks with webbing. What do I need to know about that too?

Thank you
Jason

 

[Scottytuned]

For personal use, and only a modest number of projects, I say skip the gun and compressor. I've done 4-5 guns and suppressors with a Preval sprayer. Costs less than 10 bucks and can do multiple projects. Takes the guesswork out of getting your nozzle and spray settings right for most amateurs. Highly recommend.

 

[cornchuck]

Scott

Thank you for the reply. I just looked into the Preval system and that is the way I'll probably good. I don't think buying a compressor and all the other stuff needed would be wise.

Jason

 

[TK 1985]

As someone who does Cerakote for people and so far learned quite a bit of what not to do, I will say yes, the Preval sprayer is real quick and easy. But it tends to put the stuff on very thick compared to a proper spray gun or airbrush. Gravity-fed with a compressor is the way to go as you're not wasting as much. A pancake compressor will do the job, though it is a pain. But remember, you need to blast the parts with media after degreasing, and the pancake compressor just isn't going to cut it, believe me I've tried.

 

[Hired Gun]

The gun and compressor for running it is a very small part of success with Cerakote. A stainless acetone soak tank with a lid and drain valve will be needed. Spraying or just wiping down your parts is not sufficient. Then the most important part is a dedicated blast cabinet big enough to handle a barreled action in. Sterile aluminum oxide in 100-120 grit is needed to keep from contaminating your work and getting the crucial surface profile for the ceramic Cerakote to lock into. Then an oven that has good controllable temperature to gas out and cure you finish. Done right Cerakote has no peer. Do it wrong and it's just expensive paint.

If you read the instructions it tells you the steps needed to get the best results.

I would not use Cerakote for plastic, fiberglass or wood stocks. Good urethane paint works better for that.

 

[TK 1985]

Hired gun, is there any particular reason you like the urethane paints better for polymers? I have had very good results on everything from AR furniture and shotgun stocks, to Glock frames. Just curious if there is something I'm missing.

 

[Hired Gun]

My idea of good results is looking like new for life. Short of gouging or wearing down the base metal Cerakote is there. On the better gun plastic like polymer pistols it wears off sharp edges quick as the base material wears. It's the soft tupperware, wood and fiberglass rifle/shotgun stocks I really don't like Cerakote on. Cerakote is only as durable as what's under it. The catalyzed urethanes are more durable in those applications. On large items like stocks the urethanes hold up better at 1/4 the cost. We can also get webbing effects with urethanes that are impossible for Cerakote to do.

I don't like baking stock materials either. Wait till you eat an $800 McMillan stock in the oven. I haven't done it but know of more than a few who did.

I won't do cold cure anymore except for Microslick. That stuff dries in my equipment, overspray sticks to everything and is super toxic. Major headaches even through charcoal flyers. Can't be to good for you.

One other piece of equipment that really improves Cerakote is a paint shaker. Shaking by hand doesn't compare to the mix we get fresh out of the shaker.