Build advice for a modern safari rifle

I am planning on building a modern & hopefully universal safari rifle, mainly for medium / large plains game & occasional heavy game.

Can anyone share some knowledge regarding the .375 RUM and if it will fit my bill? I've hunted SA with 6.5x55, .300wm & .416rm / Moz with my 470NE but I want a one calibre / chambered rifle to do the lot from this build.

My intentions are to build off a McMillan stock / action (as they are available to me). What barrel length / contour would be recommended to get the use of this ultra mag without making the rifle too long for effective field hunting situations?!

Nitro...

If it were me, I would call up Granite Mountain Arms and get one of their custom Mauser actions. I'd go with a Bartlein barrel at 22". Send the barrel off to NECG to have them install their express sights. I'd get one of Joel Russo's laminate stocks made out of some highly figured walnut. I'd then send everything off to your chosen smith to put together. I'd have it chambered in 375 H&H. With good handloads it is enough for anything that walks the planet. I had a 375 RUM, but it was brutal.

That is my idea of the perfect custom safari rifle. I'd also put a 1.5-5 power Swarovski scope with some quick release rings.
 
Beng - That was the same batch of primers for all the tests (all from the same packet). You do put your faith in components to be right ~ spose it could be possible to that they are duff but still 'very unlikely' - will try some different ones for sure.


MS - The brass was new Nosler Custom Brass - I also used new & once fired Rem Brass and got the same result. I'm using Redding Comp Dies - cant remember what bushing I have for the neck sizing but the smith measured it up and sorted that.

It's fair to say accuracy is want I want BUT I also wanted a fast 7mm! If velocity didn't matter I would have been better off with something like a 7mm WSM or something with better barrel life. This rifle was going to be for long range use only and any reduction in TOF would be welcomed.


Grumulkin ~ that's a good point about looking at other data and something I do; I just though the faster powder was starting to get away from what is normal for that chambering and if I use a fast powder it would not give me the velocity I am looking for? Posting the burn rates was really to show how different the N165 was from Retumbo / the usual powders used.

For the record the rifle shoots 'bullet on bullet' at 100 yard inital zeroing but won't shoot the conventional powders (I expected) without major sooting.


Guess I was really looking to see if firstly the freebore was aceptable (thanks JE Custom for your info).


Secondly if anyone else has had to use a faster powder to get rid of major sooting issues / why this has been the case with my rifle??

I had thought about getting a second smith have the rifle and see what he thought BUT I wanted to know if this has happened before or if it was something I had done wrong first - its a bit of an insult to get a 2nd smith 'check up' on someone work especially if I'm the one doing something wrong!


Thanks everyone for your posts - I will be hopefully doing some more loads over the Christmas / New Year break for the 7mm and will keep you informed of my findings. Please feel free to continue to let me know your thoughts.
 
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If it were me, I would call up Granite Mountain Arms and get one of their custom Mauser actions. I'd go with a Bartlein barrel at 22". Send the barrel off to NECG to have them install their express sights. I'd get one of Joel Russo's laminate stocks made out of some highly figured walnut. I'd then send everything off to your chosen smith to put together. I'd have it chambered in 375 H&H. With good handloads it is enough for anything that walks the planet. I had a 375 RUM, but it was brutal.

That is my idea of the perfect custom safari rifle. I'd also put a 1.5-5 power Swarovski scope with some quick release rings.

I will look into that thanks - I'm in England so co-ordinating things / buying State side and shipping to the UK is a little difficult.

I'm also currently building a match .50BMG (for UK FCSA events) and had to buy a Barnard action from New Zeland because I could'nt get anything remotely 50 cal from the States at all!

I sell a few rifles so if the safari prototype goes well I will probably offer it to my customers.

I hoping the .375 RUM would be just the job for LR croc's - in Moz (on the Zambezi Delta) we could'nt get anywhere near and I shot mine at 180 yards with my double .470NE (a bit of a long shot for the old girl but it paid off). Unfortunately that begger fell off the bank into deep, fast water before we could get to it and it was lost :(

They said it was about 4.5 m but there was ones 5.5 & 6 metre in the area - well there bloody was as one of the camp hands was took (killed) by one and the PH shot it the next day (it measured 5.5 metres)

IMAG0111-1-1-1.jpg

Well the PH did say "SHOOT IT IN THE EAR"


Nitro................
 
I understand the velocity thing....I have a 30-378 and a couple of other barn burners. I do not mean for you to nuter the thing down to a 7mm mag, but I would try a few longer OAL's and see what happens. It might solve the soot issue, will almost certianly by more accurate and I doubt it would cost anymore than 50 fps.

Good luck, I would check on the NK tension deal. I have seen where too little NK tension will allow a bullet to be popped out of the neck by the primer flash...with a 1/4 in. of freebore and a bunch of really slow burning powder, maybe that is the issue?

Just for a test you could try .004 or so of NK tension with virgin brass. I doubt it would soot with that set up
 
I understand the velocity thing....I have a 30-378 and a couple of other barn burners. I do not mean for you to nuter the thing down to a 7mm mag, but I would try a few longer OAL's and see what happens. It might solve the soot issue, will almost certianly by more accurate and I doubt it would cost anymore than 50 fps.

Good luck, I would check on the NK tension deal. I have seen where too little NK tension will allow a bullet to be popped out of the neck by the primer flash...with a 1/4 in. of freebore and a bunch of really slow burning powder, maybe that is the issue?

Just for a test you could try .004 or so of NK tension with virgin brass. I doubt it would soot with that set up

Thanks; will give that a try - it should'nt be sooting like with the usual ultra mag powders even if the faster ones seem to do better. I wouldnt have automatically thought of that.

Ive just got the mind-set that if something doesnt work I want to know why (even if something else solve it)!

Nitro.............
 
Ya, the 375 is lacking in up close smash. It has more than the 338 s but considerably less than the 416 ect.
It's great for general hunting but not so much for up close on heavy and dangerous. .
If I were to pick 1 cal and load for general all around big game hunting, it would be the 416 shooting the 350 gr Tipped TSX @2550-2600 fps. I would set the rifle up with good express sights and one of the new generation of 1-4 to 6 power , battle Scopes with an illuminated reticule that has some hold over pegs.
For myself, I go by the 4,000 ftlb rule. Never shoot at dangerous game beyond t he distance where the velocity drops to the point that the bullet impacts with less velocity than needed for 4k ftld
 
Ya, the 375 is lacking in up close smash. It has more than the 338 s but considerably less than the 416 ect.
It's great for general hunting but not so much for up close on heavy and dangerous. .
If I were to pick 1 cal and load for general all around big game hunting, it would be the 416 shooting the 350 gr Tipped TSX @2550-2600 fps. I would set the rifle up with good express sights and one of the new generation of 1-4 to 6 power , battle Scopes with an illuminated reticule that has some hold over pegs.
For myself, I go by the 4,000 ftlb rule. Never shoot at dangerous game beyond t he distance where the velocity drops to the point that the bullet impacts with less velocity than needed for 4k ftld

Cold Trigger Finger ~ I see your from Alaska! A safari for me might not be just consist of Africa - Do you have experience on Brown Bear Hunting or Moose?

If so:-

  • Whats terrian should you expect on a hunt? That might be a broad question but does most hunting take place in scrub (short range where you need a bullet resist small branches etc) or open ground (where you need something long range with a bit of pace)??
  • What sort of range would you guess most bears / moose are shot?
  • Would a .416RM be better than a .375 (RUM)?
I nearly got over there for a bear hunt but the trip was canceled and we went to Durango on an Elk hunt instead - I had 6-8 cow and calfs graze / walk within 15 yards but didnt see a single Bull ~ I sat out and glassed for miles from some vantage points but nothing :(

One day I want to harvest a Trophy bear to take pride of place in my trophy room (yet to be built)

Nitro...........
 
an Elk hunt instead - I had 6-8 cow and calfs graze / walk within 15 yards but didnt see a single Bull ~ I sat out and glassed for miles from some vantage points but nothing :(

Nitro...........[/QUOTE]

Welcome to elk hunting my friend.......
 
Yes, I've killed a bunch of brown bear. One of the biggest battles on internet forums is what is the best cart. for brown bear.
My favorite is the 458 Win Mag and the 416 Rem.
There is a huge difference between being able to kill a bear and being able to instantly take all life out of them. Or Dump them. The 375s will regularly knock a bear down and hold it down long enough to get another couple rounds into it. The 411-50 calibers generating over 4,000 ftlb impact energy will Dump them.

IMO and e . LRH and brown bear hunting should have nothing to do with each other. . Its like shooting an elephant at 200 yards. Ya it's easy to do. But it's just not right. A brown bear that weights pushing a thousand pounds and is 20-50 feet away is a world class dangerous game animal. . At 200-300 yards. YAWN. I don't care if it has a 32" skull.

Most guides like at least 50 yards. Mainly because they want the money and are chicken. My favorite is killing bears that are hunting me. And shutting them off like a switch with a chest shot.
The 375 RUM is a great round but the 416 is more effictive. Also a 300-350 gr 416-458 bullet is the best weight IMO. Don't need heavy weights for brown bear. That is assuming a good tough bullet is used.
 
Yes, I've killed a bunch of brown bear. One of the biggest battles on internet forums is what is the best cart. for brown bear.
My favorite is the 458 Win Mag and the 416 Rem.
There is a huge difference between being able to kill a bear and being able to instantly take all life out of them. Or Dump them. The 375s will regularly knock a bear down and hold it down long enough to get another couple rounds into it. The 411-50 calibers generating over 4,000 ftlb impact energy will Dump them.

IMO and e . LRH and brown bear hunting should have nothing to do with each other. . Its like shooting an elephant at 200 yards. Ya it's easy to do. But it's just not right. A brown bear that weights pushing a thousand pounds and is 20-50 feet away is a world class dangerous game animal. . At 200-300 yards. YAWN. I don't care if it has a 32" skull.

Most guides like at least 50 yards. Mainly because they want the money and are chicken. My favorite is killing bears that are hunting me. And shutting them off like a switch with a chest shot.
The 375 RUM is a great round but the 416 is more effictive. Also a 300-350 gr 416-458 bullet is the best weight IMO. Don't need heavy weights for brown bear. That is assuming a good tough bullet is used.

.416 with 300gr TSX ? May have to pack extra underwear for that trip as well!

Thanks for the reply - one day I'll get out there!

Nitro.
 
Nitro, I went through similar plans and like some people like coffee and others tea, it's also personal choice and experimentation. I chose a 375 built on basically a Gibbs 505 case - great British case as you know. My shots on a buff couple years ago with a 375 H H, even shot through the heart and separately also both lungs with tsx just made it angry and could have given us a bad beating. But having loaded GS solids and gotten to know it and it's great for plains like animals and out to about 1200 yds, I decided not to take it this year to Africa. Shot an elk out to over 600 yds but not my first choice for buff so this year I m taking a custom 505 Gibbs (and 30-378) that I can shoot off sticks with Leupold B&C with 3" groups at 300 yds - not always but mostly. Having said that I agree about the advice about a 416 but then I had one misfire and lock solid in Africa so that makes me not entirely confident in them. Others have also reported problems but careful about loads etc. So instead, who knows if it will work out, I m now having a 416 built on a 585 case, that will also give longer reach. The CEs are fine for side shots in 375 for buff but there are reports of the petals not penetrating the pec muscles on frontals. Good luck, hope you can find the perfect gun for Africa and let us know. I m still searching!
 
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