Bow Tuning ??

If your bow has split limbs, be aware that cam lean, top or bottom or both, may be an issue that requires correction so something to consider. Another thing that I think is valuable is once you've got your bow tuned, see how it shoots a bare shaft at about 10 yards. Depending on how the shafts strike the target, you may have some more tuning work to do. It can be a PITA to get the bare shaft to strike the target squarely, but if you get there, you won't regret the results at the end. I've been shooting my Hoyt Carbon Element since 2012. I've tuned/tweeked/tuned it to the point that it will shoot field points and 3-bladed G5 Strikers to within 1" of each other at 60 yards - provided I do my part.
 
If your bow has split limbs, be aware that cam lean, top or bottom or both, may be an issue that requires correction so something to consider. Another thing that I think is valuable is once you've got your bow tuned, see how it shoots a bare shaft at about 10 yards. Depending on how the shafts strike the target, you may have some more tuning work to do. It can be a PITA to get the bare shaft to strike the target squarely, but if you get there, you won't regret the results at the end. I've been shooting my Hoyt Carbon Element since 2012. I've tuned/tweeked/tuned it to the point that it will shoot field points and 3-bladed G5 Strikers to within 1" of each other at 60 yards - provided I do my part.
I love my Hoyt carbon element, it shoots great and I do all my own tuning. 50 yds. it's not that hard to tune a bow.
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Don't get caught up in speed. Stiffer spine arrows easier to tune, quieter, absorb more energy from bow, fixed blade broadheads shoot great, better penetration, better KE, do not reduce velocity as much as some think.
ABSOLUTELY!
I shoot Easton Axis 300's with a 125gr. G5 Striker up front. That combo has shot through every elk I've shot since I started using it.
 
If your bow has split limbs, be aware that cam lean, top or bottom or both, may be an issue that requires correction so something to consider. Another thing that I think is valuable is once you've got your bow tuned, see how it shoots a bare shaft at about 10 yards. Depending on how the shafts strike the target, you may have some more tuning work to do. It can be a PITA to get the bare shaft to strike the target squarely, but if you get there, you won't regret the results at the end. I've been shooting my Hoyt Carbon Element since 2012. I've tuned/tweeked/tuned it to the point that it will shoot field points and 3-bladed G5 Strikers to within 1" of each other at 60 yards - provided I do my part.
A reason why I like Bowtechs (deadlock )cam adjustment. You can tune in the field, without shims.
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Bare shaft is great starting place. I go out as far as 20 yards. Past that distance, error in technique tends to show on the tear, more than the arrow flight.

Because your arrows fletching are a part of flight, and back weight affects FOC, there will be some adjustments from the bare shaft. Which is a must if you're going for beyond 80y. Then some more tuning depending on broadhead.

Hopefully by then you're no more than 1/32 off and broadhead tuning is fast.
 
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