New Bow and Broadhead Tuning Issues

veriest1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
54
Location
TX
Bow season is right around the corner and I'm having some serious trouble getting my broadheads to group with my field points.

My setup is a Hot Nitrum 34 @ 29 1/2" draw length with 70-80 lb limbs and Trophy Taker Smackdown Pro Rest.

My Arrows are Easton FMJ 340 spine with 100 grain field points and 100 grain Muzzy MX-3 broadheads. They're all fletched with Blazer vanes.

I'm shooting a Spothogg "The Wiseguy" release.

The shop helped get it paper tuned and it was shooting bullet holes with field points before I left.

Then I got home and started broadhead tuning. Right off the bat they were shooting about 5 inches left of the field points but with perfect vertical alignment. So, in normal fashion I moved, my rest about 1/16" to the right. This moved the entire group right about 6 inches. In short, my field tips seem to be effected as much as my broadheads. I've repeated this over and over, sometimes moving a full 1/4" and other times a mere 1/32", and get the same results each time - the field points and broadheads both moved the same amount.

The Easton Guide says groups to the left for right handed shooters (that's me!) could also be caused by to stiff of an arrow. I bumped my draw weight up by 3 turns and continued getting the same result (but with arrows buried deeper in the target).

Any advice on what I should try next?
 
If you are happy with the individual grouping of field points and broadheads then try switching to a mechanical broadhead such as rage or swhacker. This should minimize the difference between field points and broadheads for now. But you still obviously have a tuning problem which I would turn to a bow shop for advice.
 
I solved this problem. The Muzzy MX-3's are significantly longer than my field points even though they weight the same.

I switched to a shorter broadhead (Slick Trick) and now I'm getting the same point of impact with the broadheads and fieldpoints.
 
I solved this problem. The Muzzy MX-3's are significantly longer than my field points even though they weight the same.

I switched to a shorter broadhead (Slick Trick) and now I'm getting the same point of impact with the broadheads and fieldpoints.

I too use Slick Tricks and they are simply awesome.
 
Slick tricks here as well. 2 bull elk and a deer to date. All have gone less than 20 yards before falling over!

Nice! The 1 additional blade seems almost an 2nd tier when considering these heads because most guys buy them because they shoot so accurately. But I used 3 blade heads for years and killed A LOT of animals with them but they simply don't compare to what those little 4 blade jewels do.

I think in part they perform well terminally because it is harder for an artery to sneak by the head without getting cut due to the sharper angle that each of the 4 blades provides. And it is so much harder to get the holes to seal up, making tracking so much easier.

Scot E.
 
I honestly think I could have chased this from the other direction and went to a longer field tip too. But I didn't.

I haven't killed anything with the Slick Trick yet but I'm sure it'll be just fine. I only wish I'd gotten the smaller diameter heads. They seem to be flying good though so I guess it doesn't matter.
 
Going back to the original statement did you try paper tuning at longer ranges.
I mean going to 10 yards or a little more rather than the normal 6 to 10 feet. This solved some issues I was having last summer.
I have to say though you did make a wise choice with the Slick Tricks. At 40 yards I had a field point drive my Slick Trick right out of the shaft. That broad head is still in my broad head target can't wait till it is shot out so I can retrieve it.
 
I think you are underspined. 340 are way weak for 80lbs. I know this is an old thread but hope it helps.
 
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