At what distance do I "zero" my rifle?

[dcgayhart]

I'll be taking my Ruger Model 18054 6.5 Creedmoor to the range later this week. This is my first experience with a rifle with a 20 MOA Picatinny rail. I using a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 ffp riflescope ebr-2c (mrad) mounted with Vortex 30mm Precision Matched Rings - 1.45". I'll be using Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match ammo for my first outing.

When will the bullet first cross the "line of sight"? At what distance do you normally zero the scope on this combo, I'm guessing 200yds? Really looking forward to shooting at "Longer Ranges".

 

[huntinghuasna]

With that cartridge, scope and a 20 MOA Picatinny I recommend a 100 yard zero. You don't need the extra margin with that set-up and it keeps everything a little simpler. You may get a good debate from others and both work but almost all the guys/gals I shoot with go with 100 and we're shooting out to 1400 yards with similar rigs.

 

[73driver]

I prefer 100 yards. Do it for a bunch of little reasons. One reason is that if your sight in Density Altitude is going to be very different than the Density Altitude you shoot at you have less built in error at 100 yds than if you used 200 or 300 yds as sight in. this might not add up to much until you get to 800 yards or more.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

The distance you zero your rifle at (meaning how far you are from the paper) does not need to be your actual zero distance (meaning the distance at which your POI for vertical - your POA for vertical, ignoring wind induced lateral. drift). The two are orthogonal to each other. For that very reason it makes little sense to actually fire at a target any closer or more distant than about 100yrds/m for the purpose of making POI = POA.

 

[dcgayhart]

I assume with the 20 MOA Picatinny rail the bullet will cross the line of sight much closer than with a scope mounted parallel to the bore? So if the scope comes from the manufacturer centered the POI will be high by 20 MOA on my first shot, correct?

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Probably something like that. I usually land at least 15moa high. Classic bore sighting is usually enough to get me on 8.5x11 paper on the first shot.

 

[huntinghuasna]

I assume with the 20 MOA Picatinny rail the bullet will cross the line of sight much closer than with a scope mounted parallel to the bore? So if the scope comes from the manufacturer centered the POI will be high by 20 MOA on my first shot, correct?

Yes... maybe. I wouldn't worry about it. I would bore sight then go directly to 100 yards with a big target and zero.

 

[ShtrRdy]

I assume with the 20 MOA Picatinny rail the bullet will cross the line of sight much closer than with a scope mounted parallel to the bore? So if the scope comes from the manufacturer centered the POI will be high by 20 MOA on my first shot, correct?

You'll need to bore sight your rifle/scope before firing any shots. You don't want to depend on some impact location after simply assembling all the parts.

If you zero the rifle/scope at 100 yards the bullet trajectory should rise to meet the line of sight a little before reaching 100 yards. The bullet trajectory will hold at this level through 100 yards and start dropping below the line of sight after 100 yards.

Another reason for using a 100 yard zero is the air movement, ( wind ), will affect the bullet less thus giving you a better idea of where the zero actually is.

 

[JTComfort]

I'll be taking my Ruger Model 18054 6.5 Creedmoor to the range later this week. This is my first experience with a rifle with a 20 MOA Picatinny rail. I using a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 ffp riflescope ebr-2c (mrad) mounted with Vortex 30mm Precision Matched Rings - 1.45". I'll be using Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match ammo for my first outing.

When will the bullet first cross the "line of sight"? At what distance do you normally zero the scope on this combo, I'm guessing 200yds? Really looking forward to shooting at "Longer Ranges".

Where you zero for "long range" precision shooting is largely personal preference and simplicity. You will be the one behind the rifle and need to make corrections and therefore you will be the guy who has to keep track of the math. That's a very solid set up you've described and you should be able to achieve great results. (Forgive me for talking first and checking second, but...) 140gr 6.5 Creedmoor should allow you to shoot point-blank beyond 400 yards with a 200 yard zero. Using a good ballistics program for your firing solutions, the zero distance will be one datapoint you input - the solution will take your zero distance into account. 100 or 200 will only matter to the calculator (we have to remember to input the right data!) To keep it simple and consistent with other shooters, you MAY find it easy to use a 100 yard zero. For my precision rifle, I use a 100 yard zero.

That said, I (and this is personal) have found it easier to use a 200 yard zero for my hunting rifles. The trajectory of my .30-06 load will put a 165gr pill in a 16" circle out to 348 yards. This makes for a simple and quick correction in the scope not requiring holdover in an imaginary space above the back of the animal. Without externally adjustable turrets, I will use the mil-dots for shots beyond 350 (and presume that I will have a steadier position in lining up a longer shot). When making your decision, consider your ultimate purpose - minute-of-steel and minute-of-deer are more tolerant than the "X" ring.

 

[ShtrRdy]

That said, I (and this is personal) have found it easier to use a 200 yard zero for my hunting rifles. The trajectory of my .30-06 load will put a 165gr pill in a 16" circle out to 348 yards. This makes for a simple and quick correction in the scope not requiring holdover in an imaginary space above the back of the animal. Without externally adjustable turrets, I will use the mil-dots for shots beyond 350 (and presume that I will have a steadier position in lining up a longer shot). When making your decision, consider your ultimate purpose - minute-of-steel and minute-of-deer are more tolerant than the "X" ring.

Like you said this is the personal part. For my hunting rifle I like to have it "zeroed" at 200 yards too but my actual zero is done at 100 yards and then I come up to leave it at 200 yds. That way if I need to do any dialing all the adjustments are in the up direction.

 

[arch408]

I like to sight my hunting rifles so that the impact of the bullet is no more than 2 to 2.5 inches from the cross hair. I use a ballistic program like Strelock to predict the trajectory. That way, I can hold pretty much dead on to that range and I can predict the distance when the bullet drop exceeds 2 inches from cross hair and then I start dialing to compensate for bullet drop.

 

[Toolhand]

Just bore sight then sight in as you would a rifle with a 0 MOA rail. If you are planning on doing any load work ups in the future I would suggest at least 100 and 2-300 would be better.

 

[Chase723]

100 yards. If you have to make fast shots, use your reticle for anything out to 4-500. Otherwise, if you have time, just dial. For anything beyond that distance though, you should dial your corrections as they will change a lot for small increases in yardage.

 

[Will Gray]

I'll be taking my Ruger Model 18054 6.5 Creedmoor to the range later this week. This is my first experience with a rifle with a 20 MOA Picatinny rail. I using a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 ffp riflescope ebr-2c (mrad) mounted with Vortex 30mm Precision Matched Rings - 1.45". I'll be using Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match ammo for my first outing.

When will the bullet first cross the "line of sight"? At what distance do you normally zero the scope on this combo, I'm guessing 200yds? Really looking forward to shooting at "Longer Ranges".

Just one point having a 0 or 20MOA rail does nothing to the problem. When the scope is zeroed at a particular range the rail MOA is accounted for by the setting of the elevation adjustment on the scope. The 20 MOA rail simply allows you to use more of the full range of adjustment of your scope so you can dial in a setting for longer range shots than if you had a 0 MOA rail.