nickjandrews
Well-Known Member
I was looking at Browning safes years back. Then I found a good deal on Bighorn safes at Costco with a similar fire rating. For the difference in price, I was able to buy an M1 from CMP as well. Always get exterior hinges. Interior is a scam and wastes valuable space. There is no security difference in real safes, as they will have fixed bolts on that side, so cutting the hinges off does nothing to get you in.
Fire rating can be increased by adding an additional layer of type X drywall inside if you like. Consider where you live and typical fire dept response times.
The only part of any commercial safe that is security-focused is the front frame and door. Any brands I've seen mentioned can be easily cut into from the back, sides, or top with an angle grinder or faster with a gas demo saw. If possible, place safe with walls around three sides, and yes, bolt it down.
I'd get a combo lock. Mine came with a digital one (as did my Dad and his friend's safes bought at the same time). Bought three group 1R S&G high security manipulation-proof locks at a good price, but had to order dials with longer stems before I could install them. I don't trust the digital ones, no matter what anyone claims. If there is any kind of fire, you're SOL with a digital. Ask a friend of mine whose house recently burned and three melted locks later...
BUT I can tell you experience, don't haul your safe with mega-security lock when you move and leave it lying on its back in the pickup in Texas sun for a week, then try to open the lock (even if you left it unlocked, etc. Mine has a thermal relocker, and it got hot enough to melt just enough to activate. I ended up trying the usual stuff. I called S&G and talked with their main vault tech. 5 minutes in he asks "man are you a locksmith?" I said no I'm a structural engineer who knows many things, just an amateur locksmith. I'd already tried everything he suggested. So I was resigned to having to drill into it. He siad a locksmith would charge around $1k, so I did it myself. I drilled through the back, with a long, long 1/2" drill, through the back of the safe door, through the back of the lock right at the relocker lever. Was able to use a piece of stiff TIG rod to tap on the lever end while my brother spun the dial after combo was dialed. PRESTO, it opened. I welded up the 2 holes in the back (1 for drill, 1 for camera) and it's all good. I will replace the back plate of the lock, but it still works just fine.
Fire rating can be increased by adding an additional layer of type X drywall inside if you like. Consider where you live and typical fire dept response times.
The only part of any commercial safe that is security-focused is the front frame and door. Any brands I've seen mentioned can be easily cut into from the back, sides, or top with an angle grinder or faster with a gas demo saw. If possible, place safe with walls around three sides, and yes, bolt it down.
I'd get a combo lock. Mine came with a digital one (as did my Dad and his friend's safes bought at the same time). Bought three group 1R S&G high security manipulation-proof locks at a good price, but had to order dials with longer stems before I could install them. I don't trust the digital ones, no matter what anyone claims. If there is any kind of fire, you're SOL with a digital. Ask a friend of mine whose house recently burned and three melted locks later...
BUT I can tell you experience, don't haul your safe with mega-security lock when you move and leave it lying on its back in the pickup in Texas sun for a week, then try to open the lock (even if you left it unlocked, etc. Mine has a thermal relocker, and it got hot enough to melt just enough to activate. I ended up trying the usual stuff. I called S&G and talked with their main vault tech. 5 minutes in he asks "man are you a locksmith?" I said no I'm a structural engineer who knows many things, just an amateur locksmith. I'd already tried everything he suggested. So I was resigned to having to drill into it. He siad a locksmith would charge around $1k, so I did it myself. I drilled through the back, with a long, long 1/2" drill, through the back of the safe door, through the back of the lock right at the relocker lever. Was able to use a piece of stiff TIG rod to tap on the lever end while my brother spun the dial after combo was dialed. PRESTO, it opened. I welded up the 2 holes in the back (1 for drill, 1 for camera) and it's all good. I will replace the back plate of the lock, but it still works just fine.
