Annealing Parameters

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So I take it you perform an x-ray diffraction Analysis on each case at several positions in the neck and then dial the perfect temperature for the perfect annealing. And then Test to make sure and adjust, repeat!
I just load and shoot thank you!
Now you're just being facetious. You can go back and read, I never said they didn't work other than SBA. Some methods are just more consistent than others.
 
I have two loading rooms and have an AMP in both. The time savings alone is worth it. ButterBean, you might be the only guy I have ever heard of that owned an AMP and sold it and still reloads.

I know a lot of competitive shooters, and they all own AMPs, as well as A&D scales.
 
I have two loading rooms and have an AMP in both. The time savings alone is worth it. ButterBean, you might be the only guy I have ever heard of that owned an AMP and sold it and still reloads.

I know a lot of competitive shooters, and they all own AMPs, as well as A&D scales.
I'm not a competitive shooter as this is the Long Range Hunting Forum
 
After building a mechanical automatic flame annealer, I learned about salt bath annealing.
My salt bath annealer uses a Lee lead pot to melt the salt. I built a PID temperature controller that uses a thermocouple to monitor and maintain the salt temperature very accurately (+ or - 2 degrees C).
I put my cases into the melted salt for 6 seconds with a long tweezer. The cases are held neck down in the salt by a stainless steel holder.
I found that a 6 second soak produces very consistent annealing. It's long enough to saturate the brass to bring it up to the temperature of the salt and there's no possibility of over heating above the temperature of the salt bath.
By maintaining the proper level of salt, the case necks and shoulders get annealed without much heat reaching the body of the case.
I quench in water.
It's fast... 10 pcs per minute and inexpensive to build.
When you say PID controller, are you talking about a proportional, integral, and derivative controller?
 
I'm not a competitive shooter as this is the Long Range Hunting Forum
Well, I am not a competitive bicycle rider but after I bought a new top of the line carbon fiber bike, I was finally able to beat Ms LRnut on Friday. She always bought the best and kept telling me I needed to upgrade. She was right. I did get smoked by two guys when I rode by myself on Sunday, but they were 20 years younger, and one guy looked to have an even better bike than me.
 
I'm not a competitive shooter as this is the Long Range Hunting Forum
I've tried to stay out of this, but I'm sorry, am I to believe you think shooting long range at animals doesn't require the same level of skill and precision as competitive shooting?

I too find it very peculiar and hard to believe you've allegedly owned all the things you claim you have and gotten rid of it all because it wasn't needed. Really? Why did you buy it then? I haven't seen you post all the valuable testing you claim you've done with it to make that determination, and information that would be great to see and learn from. If I missed it, I apologize and please direct me to it.

That's all I care to say on the matter and will not contribute any further, as I don't want to take away from the OP any further. My apologies for even posting this at all.
 
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I've tried to stay out of this, but I'm sorry, am I to believe you think shooting long range at animals doesn't require the same level of skill and precision as competitive shooting?

I too find it very peculiar and hard to believe you've allegedly owned all the things you claim you have and gotten rid of it all because it wasn't needed. Really? Why did you buy it then? I haven't seen you post all the valuable testing you claim you've done with it to make that determination, and information that would be great to see and learn from. If I missed it, I apologize and please direct me to it.

That's all I care to say on the matter and will not contribute any further, as I don't want to take away from the OP any further. My apologies for even posting this at all.
Once again your agenda is noted, Have a good evening
 
Looks like you're saying this is the only way?
Sorry 1mechanic, but the entire quote is.

You're doing a full anneal in the sense you are accomplishing all three phases of annealing: recovery, recrystallization, and grain growth. Unless you use SBA. You are just not achieving dead soft.
I stated in the context of recovery, recrystallization and grain growth you're achieving a full anneal unless you are using SBA. I then stated you just don't want it to be dead soft. This was a reply to quote below.
Again, much of this muddles back n forth n through FULL annealing, instead of what we actually do & need.

Anything over 500degF anneals, it just does not FULL anneal (immediately) there, or at 750deg either.
Immediate FULL annealing is NOT what I would ever want to do to my cases.
Cleared up?
 
You're doing a full anneal in the sense you are accomplishing all three phases of annealing: recovery, recrystallization, and grain growth. Unless you use SBA. You are just not achieving dead soft.
Can you elaborate on what salt bath is lacking ? I got some of it from Petey's annealing thread but am not fully getting what SB is lacking
 
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