Annealeez "Function" Settings

[Kmccord]

To all that have an Annealeez, I received my unit Saturday, trying to familiarize myself with it, but I am having a difficult time figuring out the "Function" sets. Are you guys setting each Function to a specific value, then on the run setting, just dialing down or up to a specific speed? I really am not getting how those Function settings work when operating the unit. I have some 6.5 Creed and 28 Nosler, I figured I would work the Creed first before changing out my wheels for the 28. Are you guys going in a dark room and timing your brass based on when the neck glows and backing off a little to the point the neck is not glowing? I understand some use Templaq, but I am not, read where that stuff is not truly annealing based on the paint running or turning clear. Any feedback with people that use this unit would be greatly appreciated. I was really expecting a run timer for the digital keypad, but it is broken down into Percentages, instead of seconds in the flame.

 

[Bob Wright]

Tag. I have one as well. Have you annealed with a torch/socket before?

 

[Tac-O]

I don't have an annealeez, I just use the torch, drill, and socket with a metronome method. I do it in the dark without templaq. The way I figure out my time is I start on the too fast end and slowly work up in time until I jjust barely start to see the neck glow. Very very faintly glow. I've found it's harder to see that point with thicker brass, like Peterson compared to Winchester, for some reason.

 

[Kmccord]

Tag. I have one as well. Have you annealed with a torch/socket before?

Nope, this is my first shot at annealing, thought I would go with the Annealeez instead of socket and torch method.

 

[Bob Wright]

Nope, this is my first shot at annealing, thought I would go with the Annealeez instead of socket and torch method.

I haven't fired up the Annealeze yet but from socket/torch processes it gives me an advantage on "timing". My brass responded well then and I have plenty of scrap to develop the timing on the machine and using my stopwatch I reckon. Call the team at Annealeze is an option.

 

[Dosh]

I haven't fired up the Annealeze yet but from socket/torch processes it gives me an advantage on "timing". My brass responded well then and I have plenty of scrap to develop the timing on the machine and using my stopwatch I reckon. Call the team at Annealeze is an option.

Yes. Using old unusable brass gives the opportunity to fine tune without sacrificing the good brass. Good luck

 

[nksmfamjp]

First, the functions on the controller weren't omuch value to me. I'm set where every up/down press gives me 1 speed change.

To me, the setup is torch distance to shoulder, flame length and speed setting.

25mm is about the minimum flame length that will stay lit consistently. So, I set flame length 25-30 nominal and nozzle to shoulder around 30-35mm….metric because I have a metric ruler! I aim the torch at the base of the shoulder, and away from wheels.

Then I put Tempilaq on the inside of the mouth only. In the flame burns and on the wheels cause sticking.

i start with speed at 75ish and slow until the tempilaq changes. Then I confirmed the blue line location on the brass body. It should be at least 10% down the body, but no more than 25%. That way I know shoulder got hot. Then I confirm the neck edge doesn't flare at the end of the cycle. The flare means some material is burning away from the brass. I dial it back about 2 speed steps to stop this. The I know I'm as hot as I'd safe and the whole area needed got hot.

This method doesn't ruin a case and sets a good anneal setting from what I can tell. 750 is not magic, above 600, you are getting some annealing.

I understand some use Templaq, but I am not, read where that stuff is not truly annealing based on the paint running or turning clear. Any feedback with people that use this unit would be greatly appreciated.

Why is that not true annealing?

 

[Kmccord]

First, the functions on the controller weren't omuch value to me. I'm set where every up/down press gives me 1 speed change.

To me, the setup is torch distance to shoulder, flame length and speed setting.

25mm is about the minimum flame length that will stay lit consistently. So, I set flame length 25-30 nominal and nozzle to shoulder around 30-35mm….metric because I have a metric ruler! I aim the torch at the base of the shoulder, and away from wheels.

Then I put Tempilaq on the inside of the mouth only. In the flame burns and on the wheels cause sticking.

i start with speed at 75ish and slow until the tempilaq changes. Then I confirmed the blue line location on the brass body. It should be at least 10% down the body, but no more than 25%. That way I know shoulder got hot. Then I confirm the neck edge doesn't flare at the end of the cycle. The flare means some material is burning away from the brass. I dial it back about 2 speed steps to stop this. The I know I'm as hot as I'd safe and the whole area needed got hot.

This method doesn't ruin a case and sets a good anneal setting from what I can tell. 750 is not magic, above 600, you are getting some annealing.



Why is that not true annealing?

I believe the person was Reese on the range, stated he was a metalurgis or a background in it and stated that Templaq is not the solution for annealing.

 

[Veteran]

The real key on Annealez is 1) Where you set the flame length and how far away it is from the neck.

Because then the speed and resulting number of seconds in that flame is a function for how hot and big the flame is and how far back it is set.

If you watch the video tutorials on the annealez site for setting up the Gen. 3 torch, he is saying a flame 1 inch long and set back 1 inch too.

My setting speeds were about 26 to 27 which for .300 WM and .338 LM gave me 5.5 to 6 seconds in that flame.

I had always heard 4 or 5 seconds, but again it depends on what you are doing with that torch set up. Length of flame and
setback.

At these settings, the 450 degree tempilaq I put about a quarter to 3/8 inch below the shoulder bottleneck on the case itself just barely began to evaporate. I think personally it was easier for me to see what is going on with the 450 tempilaq on the outer case than trying to see the 750 Tempilaq on the inside of the neck. You put the 750 tempilaq on the inside of the neck because you really can't have it under a direct flame and really tell much. You don't want the 450 Tempilaq to disappear completely on the case body placed say 1/4 to 3/8 inch below the shoulder on the case. Just begin to be inpacted, means you are starting to get 450 there and 750 to 800 up on the neck.

So, these big cases gotta spin about 5 to 6 seconds in a short flame with the torch end set back 1 inch so the tip of the flame just touches the necks.

You will get different answers for every size case and caliber and type of brass. That's why you have to use tempilaq to really see how your set up, your caliber of case, and your brass composition behave.

I'm not messing with the function keys because I am more concerned with how many seconds the brass stays in the flame and
and what temperatures it reaches, and what the color profile on the neck and top of the case look like. All of that is totally controlled by the speed controls and your case size.

 

[Bob Wright]

I believe the person was Reese on the range, stated he was a metalurgis or a background in it and stated that Templaq is not the solution for annealing.

I understand why a metallurgy guy would say that. But we don't have access to a met lab like he does where he can test material properties. We have Templaq, or experience or trial and error. In my torch and socket method, I could clearly see the benefit in bullet seating, on targets and lower ES/SD.
You'll do well just keeping an eye on it and searching many sources to refine your process. Keep good notes.

 

[Veteran]

Yeah, and it glowed in the dark so it must be good ain't the right answer either......

 

[Bob Wright]

Yeah, and it glowed in the dark so it must be good ain't the right answer either......

Correct. Orange flame color at contact point is zinc burning. There is your warning sign and stay below that regardless.

 

[QuietTexan]

AMP did a lot of write-ups about annealing, very interesting series of reads:

Induction Annealing Brass | Our Research | AMP

View the latest articles from AMP Annealing. Get tips and tricks from our R&D. Here we upload articles to provide your the best possible information on innovations in the annealing process.

www.ampannealing.com

Salt Bath Annealing - Does It Work? | Learn More | AMP

View the latest articles from AMP Annealing. Get tips and tricks from our R&D. Here we upload articles to provide your the best possible information on innovations in the annealing process.

www.ampannealing.com

Induction Annealer | The Latest Research | AMP

View the latest articles from AMP Annealing. Get tips and tricks from our R&D. Here we upload articles to provide your the best possible information on innovations in the annealing process.

www.ampannealing.com

I'm not saying you have to buy an AMP but they've done a significant amount of testing in the field. They even address using a torch in the salt bath article:

For those reloaders considering getting started on annealing, and who are on a budget, we would recommend a gas flame-based option.

 

[cantfixstupid]

I thought the anealeze was pretty easy to set up, from what I've read and watched on so called experts video you just want the brass to start to change color.
I anneal every time before sizing and using the method I mentioned above seems to be the trick. You have to have just the tip of the flame just below the shoulder of the cartridge. I have gone through a hundred rounds in a session and depending on the time of year and your propane bottle you may only get 50, 60 or 70 rounds completed before the bottle starts to freeze up and the flame become erratic. But other than that its a pretty seamless process and I haven't ruined a single piece of brass. If I did it didn't seem to effect the the sizing, load or shoot. I anneal 22 Hornet all the way up to 338 Lapua.