A question about anealing?

[cape cove]

The sand method sounds real interesting. No arguing that sand is safer than salt. My only concerns would be to get a steady heat control and from what I've read on anneling 800F is not hot enough. From what I've read appx 940F is required.

 

[Mram10us]

I anneal my straight wall after every shot (45-70 & 45-110), they don't get sized. all my bottle neck cartridges after 5 shots or so and always before neck sizing. I use clean play sand in lee pot. Setting around 9 which gets sand about 800 degrees. Push neck in sand for about 5 seconds or so, then into an empty pot. Works very well and doing a couple at a time your hands won't stop moving. Can do a lot of brass in a sitting. Very cheap and very efficient. No primer, and if brass gets hot where you are grabbing it, you annealed too long

Was that 800f or 800c?

 

[Mram10us]

The sand method sounds real interesting. No arguing that sand is safer than salt. My only concerns would be to get a steady heat control and from what I've read on anneling 800F is not hot enough. From what I've read appx 940F is required.

According to metallurgy tables, 800f is enough. I'll find a link

 

[WildBillG]

If we are so concerned about consistent heat then the torch should rule. As we know if we add a colder product any any hot substance it will cool some. The flame from the torch will not cool unless the setting is manually changed by us. I could be wrong on this though.

 

[aushunter1]

I like DIY projects so I made my own annealer.
I did a fair bit of research on other home made builds from youtube & set to it.
Was a good challenge & came out well I though.

I use 750*F tempelaq to set the wheel speed controller then adjust the feed speed controller accordingly.

 

[birdiemc]

If we are so concerned about consistent heat then the torch should rule. As we know if we add a colder product any any hot substance it will cool some. The flame from the torch will not cool unless the setting is manually changed by us. I could be wrong on this though.

The only problem with the flame is setting it up to do each one perfectly the same every time. When you turn on a little propane/butane torch it's hard to get it precisely the same each time, which throws off your time in the heat from the last time you did it, and without tempilaq you're basically just SWAGing it. It might be a good guess, but it's still a guess

 

[birdiemc]

The sand method sounds real interesting. No arguing that sand is safer than salt. My only concerns would be to get a steady heat control and from what I've read on anneling 800F is not hot enough. From what I've read appx 940F is required.

I'm gonna start a new thread to see if we can get some more folks that are trying sand, as to not take away from the OP...

 

[Tech4]

I have Annealeez and after it is set up I can let run and do other things in the area. I don't worry about temperatures I turn off the lights over my reloading bench and when the brass just starts to glow red it should drop. I feel this is more accurate than trying to get the temperature of brass as it is turning.

 

[Tech4]

I guestion of it is a good idea to drop a case you just heated in to water wouldn't it be better to let it cool slowly? It seems to me dropping it into water defeats the
purpose of doing it.

 

[Mram10us]

If we are so concerned about consistent heat then the torch should rule. As we know if we add a colder product any any hot substance it will cool some. The flame from the torch will not cool unless the setting is manually changed by us. I could be wrong on this though.

The salt cooling while annealing is easily remedied by turning up the heat. I start at #5 on my dial to get to 500c then run it up to 8 while I'm doing the bigger cases for a 7 count each.
Torches are definitely hotter, but must be perfectly timed since they are 3k+ degrees. Easy to melt the zinc if you aren't careful (~420c)

 

[Mram10us]

I have Annealeez and after it is set up I can let run and do other things in the area. I don't worry about temperatures I turn off the lights over my reloading bench and when the brass just starts to glow red it should drop. I feel this is more accurate than trying to get the temperature of brass as it is turning.

Glowing red is not good. A "dark plum" is what metallurgy tables call for. Again, it's easy to overdo the heat when annealing

 

[Mram10us]

I guestion of it is a good idea to drop a case you just heated in to water wouldn't it be better to let it cool slowly? It seems to me dropping it into water defeats the
purpose of doing it.

Water quenching is fine for brass. Definitely different than steel. The annealing is complete upon heating. The quenching keeps the heat from working to far up the case.

 

[birdiemc]

^^^^ this
Brass and steel have different properties, when steel is dunked in water straight from high enough temps it becomes hard and brittle, brass does not share this property

 

[sturner]

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