6mm Rem AI fire forming

[xsn10s]

I just place the cartridge under the extractor so that it pushes the the ejector down. I'd rather have full spring strength for positive ejection.

 

[just_jon]

I’m with you re: using scarce resources for fire forming. I use the COW method with a Green Dot charge equal to 1/3 of a normal safe rifle powder charge (I,e.,12.3 grains for 22-250AI/250AI, 19 grains for 280AI, etc.). I always get a full fire form on on firing.

I don‘t fire form with bullets because I’m too impatient to get started loading for the improved round.

 

[QuietTexan]

I pull the entire spring when fireforming/ on bench rifles. Nothing to do with how the case forms, but I really don't want my cases getting dinged up on concrete or dropped in the mud if possible to avoid. Means no cleaning before I load them again. Sinclair's makes a good kit for tearing down Remington style bolts, no more ejectors shooting across the room and hiding in a corner:

REMINGTON 700 BOLT MAINTENANCE TOOL KIT | Brownells

Cleaning, maintaining and changing parts on the bolt of your Remington 700 bolt action rifle has never been easier. This kit includes the Sinclair Remington Firing Pin Removal Tool, Remington Ejector Compressor Tool, Remington Mainspring Tool and ...

www.brownells.com

 

[xsn10s]

I pull the entire spring when fireforming/ on bench rifles. Nothing to do with how the case forms, but I really don't want my cases getting dinged up on concrete or dropped in the mud if possible to avoid. Means no cleaning before I load them again. Sinclair's makes a good kit for tearing down Remington style bolts, no more ejectors shooting across the room and hiding in a corner:

REMINGTON 700 BOLT MAINTENANCE TOOL KIT | Brownells

Cleaning, maintaining and changing parts on the bolt of your Remington 700 bolt action rifle has never been easier. This kit includes the Sinclair Remington Firing Pin Removal Tool, Remington Ejector Compressor Tool, Remington Mainspring Tool and ...

www.brownells.com

I could see doing that on bench rifles especially since contrete is rough on brass. Mine is for the field so I want full ejection strength. I've been catching brass for years when I don't need to manipulate the bolt fast. So it stays clean for the most part. I still clean the brass and usually wipe/ remove any carbon on the brass. Just how I've done it for as long as I've loaded.

 

[QuietTexan]

Both ways work, I like full power ejection when I need it too.

The poing was that Sinclair's kit comes with the tool that holds the ejector plunger in, then you use a small punch to knock out the roll pin, and the spring and plunger slide out. I can swap the spring in and out in about 30 seconds, it's not a big to pull and replace. So all the way through load development I keep the spring out so I don't have to catch brass, then put it back in when I need it.

I think it works on Savages also, might have to disassemble the bolt to take the head out though.

 

[xsn10s]

Both ways work, I like full power ejection when I need it too.

The poing was that Sinclair's kit comes with the tool that holds the ejector plunger in, then you use a small punch to knock out the roll pin, and the spring and plunger slide out. I can swap the spring in and out in about 30 seconds, it's not a big to pull and replace. So all the way through load development I keep the spring out so I don't have to catch brass, then put it back in when I need it.

I think it works on Savages also, might have to disassemble the bolt to take the head out though.

I've been to Remington's amorer's class twice so I just free hand it. Nice tools though.

 

[sable tireur]

Don't forget that you don't always have to 'fire form' all brass to get to the near final case shape you desire.

There is the process of Hydraulic Forming which uses either water or denatured alcohol as the actuator. These dies are similar price-wise to buying Redding products but are made by either Whidden or Hornady. The front end cost is higher but can be amortized over the quantity of cases made using the process, making those cases relatively inexpensive. No bullets, powder or primers. No once fired cases, cleaning and annealing or wear and tear on your barrel and time consumed using those components.

Cheap is not always an end unto itself. It's a state of mind.

I made several hundred 6mm Rem. AI cases by loading excellent, accurate varmint loads in standard cases and shooting prairie dogs. Three shots then let that rifle cool while continuing with another rifle.

If you only need a few cases for hunting, buy a box of factory ammunition and fire form. Keep those 20 pieces to use for your hunting which should have them last quite awhile. Fire form while shooting hogs or deer if you like.

If you like tedious, load with pistol powder, corn meal or grits and tuft of something then go shoot and have a good cleaning system worked out.

Any of these methods will work and have worked for decades. Test or pick the one you like.

The importance is enjoying the process and getting to shoot something you made!