6.5-303 load data
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Blueflint
New Member
I have some 25-303 load data from about 15 years ago if that would help as a base line. Great cartridge, lots of fun.
-Tony
-Tony
Blueflint
New Member
Here is some 25-303 data, should give you an idea of where to start. These were all in a 24" barrel, all R-P brass, all WLR primers. I no longer have this rifle but have thought about building another.
117 gr. Sierra BTSP
OAL 2.850"
IMR 4831
42 gr 2,770 fps
44 gr 2,850 fps *
100 gr Speer Spitzer SP
OAL 2.840"
IMR 4350
42 gr 2,858 fps
43 gr 2,938 fps *
43.5 gr 2,998 fps *
100 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR4831
OAL 2.840"
38 gr 2,626 fps
40 gr 2,708 fps
42 gr 2,821 fps
43 gr 2,901 fps
44 gr 2,979 fps *
44.5 gr 3,024 fps *
87 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR 4350
OAL 2.850"
44 gr 2,871 fps *
45 gr 3,160 fps
87 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR 4064
2.850" OAL
38.5 gr 3,850 fps
* = most accurate loads
Hope this helps.
Tony
117 gr. Sierra BTSP
OAL 2.850"
IMR 4831
42 gr 2,770 fps
44 gr 2,850 fps *
100 gr Speer Spitzer SP
OAL 2.840"
IMR 4350
42 gr 2,858 fps
43 gr 2,938 fps *
43.5 gr 2,998 fps *
100 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR4831
OAL 2.840"
38 gr 2,626 fps
40 gr 2,708 fps
42 gr 2,821 fps
43 gr 2,901 fps
44 gr 2,979 fps *
44.5 gr 3,024 fps *
87 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR 4350
OAL 2.850"
44 gr 2,871 fps *
45 gr 3,160 fps
87 gr Speer Spitzer SP
IMR 4064
2.850" OAL
38.5 gr 3,850 fps
* = most accurate loads
Hope this helps.
Tony
Blueflint
New Member
Actually built several back in the 1990's. One on a P14, one Martini and one Lee Enfield #1. All the above data was safe in all of the ones I built. Thinking about another again. I still have a set of dies so that is not an obstacle.
engineer40
Well-Known Member
Where are you guys getting these barrels for your 303's? I was doing some searching a few weeks ago and wasn't coming up with much.
I could find lots of barrel makers for; Mosin's, 1903's, Mauser's...
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
Thanks!
I could find lots of barrel makers for; Mosin's, 1903's, Mauser's...
I appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
Thanks!
Blueflint
New Member
Up until 2002, I had my own shop and was a full time riflesmith. For me it was just a matter of threading and chambering a barrel blank and I had a set of 25-303 reamers from Clymer (both a case sizer and a finish reamer).
I have a nice unfinished project packed away from that time I am thinking about. It is a No.1 Mk.III with the charger bridge removed and it has a No. 1 "Long Lee" bolt mated to it, has the safety mounted on the bolt instead of the receiver. I am thinking about barreling it to either a 25-303 or some sort of 35-303. Originally it was to be a 35-303 using a 35 Remington reamer and a set of dies but still using the rimmed 303 brass. On the back burner but still thinking about it.
A no. 4 barrel (or any L.E.) is easy, it has a .997" major thread diameter and is 14 tpi. The shank length is approximately .687" long but measure each receiver as it can be a little different. Measure from the inner collar to the bolt face, hopefully it is in the .064" to .067" range. If less, then cut the chamber until the rim cut increases the appropriate amount . If too long, you can use a different bolt head to make this less or custom machine the shank to make up the difference. Once fitted up, scribe where the extractor goes, remove it and cut it, using a old barrel as a guide. Polish the extractor cut and reinstall and test fit. It is no harder than barreling any other rifle, any competent gunsmith can do one.
15 years ago, barrel blanks were a LOT cheaper...good ones. I got away from the industry around 2003 or so then came back a few years ago... so maybe 9 or 10 years away and wow, I was surprised how things changed. I used only Douglass and/or Wilson barrels, most of my work was custom commercial (Remingtons, Winchesters, Savages, etc.) or military mausers but I did a lot of L.E. too.
Good luck. Tony
I have a nice unfinished project packed away from that time I am thinking about. It is a No.1 Mk.III with the charger bridge removed and it has a No. 1 "Long Lee" bolt mated to it, has the safety mounted on the bolt instead of the receiver. I am thinking about barreling it to either a 25-303 or some sort of 35-303. Originally it was to be a 35-303 using a 35 Remington reamer and a set of dies but still using the rimmed 303 brass. On the back burner but still thinking about it.
A no. 4 barrel (or any L.E.) is easy, it has a .997" major thread diameter and is 14 tpi. The shank length is approximately .687" long but measure each receiver as it can be a little different. Measure from the inner collar to the bolt face, hopefully it is in the .064" to .067" range. If less, then cut the chamber until the rim cut increases the appropriate amount . If too long, you can use a different bolt head to make this less or custom machine the shank to make up the difference. Once fitted up, scribe where the extractor goes, remove it and cut it, using a old barrel as a guide. Polish the extractor cut and reinstall and test fit. It is no harder than barreling any other rifle, any competent gunsmith can do one.
15 years ago, barrel blanks were a LOT cheaper...good ones. I got away from the industry around 2003 or so then came back a few years ago... so maybe 9 or 10 years away and wow, I was surprised how things changed. I used only Douglass and/or Wilson barrels, most of my work was custom commercial (Remingtons, Winchesters, Savages, etc.) or military mausers but I did a lot of L.E. too.
Good luck. Tony
I'm using a no4 mk1 receiver, ch makes the dies and I found the reamer at ptg. The barrel is a green mountain 6.5mm blank. I will do the machine work myself. If I get some measurements would someone here be willing to run a quick load for me?
