338 Lapua reloading questions

[30mm Vulcan Cannon]

1. What is the highest velocity you can safely and reasonably get out of 300 grain Berger OTM hybrids (I have read on other threads that this is the best bullet to use for reloading-at least in terms of accuracy). Is 2950 FPS feasible or too much? Or even 3000 FPS, feasible or too much?


2. I have some shot up (shot once) Hornady brass (I was using 285 grain factory ammo)-would this be good enough to use for reloads or should I just buy brand new Lapua brass?

I'm new to reloading but have multiple family members who can help me out and have most the necessary equipment

3. What all do I need besides the bullets, brass, primers, and dies?

Thanks!

 

[RockyMtnMT]

If you are not working with an improved version I would say that 2900ish will be tops. If you are not using a chronograph for load development then make sure you stay within reloading manual specs. I would look into new Lapua brass. The other brass will work but will not last nearly as long. When you change brass you will have to re load develop.

Have fun.

Steve

 

[30mm Vulcan Cannon]

Oh ok. I assume you cannot shoot 338 Lapua Improved out of a 338 Lapua?

 

[DSmith12]

No you can't fire 338 Lapua improved rounds in a standard Lapua chamber. I am currently getting 2930fps out of a standard Lapua with 300gr Berger tacticals out of a 30" barrel. Hornady cases will work but Lapua cases last longer. I am only on my 6th firing of my Lapua brass. A friend of mine got 22loadings out of his Lapua 338 brass before he tossed it and picked up another box.

 

[30mm Vulcan Cannon]

No you can't fire 338 Lapua improved rounds in a standard Lapua chamber. I am currently getting 2930fps out of a standard Lapua with 300gr Berger tacticals out of a 30" barrel. Hornady cases will work but Lapua cases last longer. I am only on my 6th firing of my Lapua brass. A friend of mine got 22loadings out of his Lapua 338 brass before he tossed it and picked up another box.

How does that load perform for you?

 

[DSmith12]

The load performs extremely well for me. I am consistently shooting .2-.25moa groups with it and it doesn't show any pressure signs. I tested H1000, RL33 and Retumbo and retumbo was the best performer in my rifle of the 3 and also had the highest velocity as well.

 

[Predator 22]

How much hornady brass do you have? If you have enough of it (200+)I would work up a load with it? If you don't have very much sell it and put it towards lapua brass. Good luck

 

[30mm Vulcan Cannon]

How much hornady brass do you have? If you have enough of it (200+)I would work up a load with it? If you don't have very much sell it and put it towards lapua brass. Good luck

I have about 47 of them. I can buy the Lapua brass if you think that's the better way to go.

I just think that there's more to be had than 285 grain bullets going 2760 FPS (this is what the Hornady factory match ammo has on it)


If I could get the 300 grain Bergers to go between 2900-2950 FPS (which is feasible by what I've read on here) I would be happy.

 

[Predator 22]

Yeah I would buy lapua brass and sell the hornady.

 

[Sig21]

Hello

I would use lapua brass and sell the hornady... I just started load testing and wanted to get into the 2900's, but found a really good node for my rifle at 2796 fps...3shots.180". This was with 95 gr of rl33 , I went all the way to 98 grains but they opened up to .279" at 98 gr there was no pressure signs and bolt lift was the same as 90gr tested. I think my next node would be in the high 2900's but I think I'll stay here for now. I am shooting 300 Bergers, lapua brass , 215m...bat m action hart barrel 28" with a break... Coal 3.967 with .015 jump

Enjoy

 

[snox801]

There is a lot going on besides speed when you reload. I don't even use my chrono till I find the most accurate load. I start at book min and work my way up .5gr at a time until I get the first sign of pressure. Then move back to the next one down. Or lower if one of those was more accurate. Then I see what the speed is. I feel it's the safe way to do it when you start out so you are not chasing speed looking for max. Rember if you set a goal of 2900 you may feel the need to push it a bit. Barrel length matters to so you may never get to your number with a shorter barrel. Reload to what the gun is telling you and you will be safe. I have several that allow me to go over book max by a bit. I also have several that will badly flatten primers way before book max. Just depends on the gun. Good luck.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

Vel is a very good indicator of pressure. Full custom rifles that are very well put together often will not show pressure on the brass until it is quite a bit over pressure. When using published load data for a given combo if you are getting more vel than the data shows then you are over pressure.

So in other words I use the same method as Snow but with the chrono. That way I have two indicators of pressure at the same time.

Steve

 

[barefooter56]

1. What is the highest velocity you can safely and reasonably get out of 300 grain Berger OTM hybrids (I have read on other threads that this is the best bullet to use for reloading-at least in terms of accuracy). Is 2950 FPS feasible or too much? Or even 3000 FPS, feasible or too much?


2. I have some shot up (shot once) Hornady brass (I was using 285 grain factory ammo)-would this be good enough to use for reloads or should I just buy brand new Lapua brass?

I'm new to reloading but have multiple family members who can help me out and have most the necessary equipment

3. What all do I need besides the bullets, brass, primers, and dies?

Thanks!

30MM Vulcan Cannon,
Short answer is the highest velocity YOUR rifle is most accurate at. That is found through load testing. I suggest you find your seating depth accuracy node first . Start at .015 off the lands ( the .338 300 grain OTM bullet is a HYBRID. Not a VLD and is very jump tolerant) and work back towards the cartridge case in .005 increments. Do this at the lowest powder charge listed for the bullet/powder/cartridge combination you are testing. Once the seating depth accuracy node is found. Work your load back up slowly checking for accuracy and pressure signs as you increase the powder charge until you find your highest velocity accuracy node. As far as velocity goes. At a COAL of 3.681 inches we show max velocities in our manual at 2519 to 2704 fps. Setting the bullet out of the cartridge case towards the lands exposes more powder capacity in the cartridge case so 2900 fps or so like HAMMER said MAY be possible. Accuracy trumps velocity EVERY time.

 

[FDLT406]

30MM Vulcan Cannon,
Short answer is the highest velocity YOUR rifle is most accurate at. That is found through load testing. I suggest you find your seating depth accuracy node first . Start at .015 off the lands ( the .338 300 grain OTM bullet is a HYBRID. Not a VLD and is very jump tolerant) and work back towards the cartridge case in .005 increments. Do this at the lowest powder charge listed for the bullet/powder/cartridge combination you are testing. Once the seating depth accuracy node is found. Work your load back up slowly checking for accuracy and pressure signs as you increase the powder charge until you find your highest velocity accuracy node. As far as velocity goes. At a COAL of 3.681 inches we show max velocities in our manual at 2519 to 2704 fps. Setting the bullet out of the cartridge case towards the lands exposes more powder capacity in the cartridge case so 2900 fps or so like HAMMER said MAY be possible. Accuracy trumps velocity EVERY time.

Phil,
What are the lands you are speaking about. I have 300 grain Lapua bullets and they are smooth.
Also how do I go about checking pressure? I am shooting thru an AI .338 LM and I do not have a chronograph.
I am using the nossler 8th edition manual and it calls for a case length of 2.74 ( is that max or min) I also have lapua brass that is shorter( between 2.715 and 2.722)

Thanks, Ty